... Twinkle Twinkle Chandelier ...

LIGHTS, LIGHTS, EVERYWHERE!

Egyptians are very poetic and grande in their compliments, but one thing that becomes apparent, if you listen, is that Egyptians value and appreciate light, both in speech…. and in their homes!

Some of the often used compliments here in Egypt are:

• You are the light of Alexandria (town name)
• Now you are back, you have made Egypt full of light
• It was dark, but now it is light because of you.
• Your light is brighter than electricity: you bring light to my home

LIGHTS IN THE VILLAGES:

A long, long time ago, before there was electricity in the villages (and even today in a few scattered homes) kerosene lamps were what brought light into the homes at night. Children would gather on the mat with their homework and mother would place the lit kerosene lamp in the middle of the mat, so each child could see their notebook in the flickering flames. The smell and sound of the kerosene lamp, and the gauze lamp that followed still evoke many memories of a hard but happy life as a child in the villages of Egypt.

After these kerosene lamps came the initial generators: noisy and smelly, and nobody wanted to be the child chosen to run and switch off the generator, plunging the home and farm into darkness! Finally, as the electricity pylons, wires and cables marched their way into the villages, great celebration, excitement and awe surrounded each home as light pervaded the homes at the flip of a switch…. well…. most times!

LIGHTS IN MOSQUES & CHURCHES:

In most mosques and churches you will see lights: hanging from the beams, ceilings or on the walls. Some are very ornate, large chandelier type, others more simple, ceramic but nonetheless beautiful. For morning and evening prayers, when it is dark, the mosques and churches emit welcoming lights to all those who seek to enter.

LIGHTS IN THE HOMES:

Egyptians generally like LOTS of lights in their home…. as many as you can fit in one room…. and then add a standing lamp! When asked, they cannot explain why: it’s just how it is! A well-lit home is like happiness! There are 2 main “fashions” when it comes to lighting your home, but one theme is the same in both: more is better….. even if you bump your head on the chandelier! The more the merrier… you can never have enough lights!!!

* CLASSIC

This look usually has a Chandelier in the middle of the room: big, ornate, fancy and expensive! Chandeliers have been in fashion here since the early 1900’s, traditionally copper, now metal, or if you need to go inexpensive…. plastic (which is supposed to look like metal!)

On the walls then, will be added wall lamps, or hidden spot lights, or fluorescent tube lighting behind the railings! Add on a few lamps on the side tables and that will be a standard room.

* MODERN

The modern look is what they call the “American” style: more subtle and peaceful. Hidden wall lamps and spots, lamps on lovely small tables, and mood lighting.

This can include a “Disco ball” light in the middle of your lounge, which can change color and music at the touch of a button.

Light fittings and fixtures are one of the most important things on the list of a new home owner: and the selection available at light shops is completely overwhelming in size, color, range and quantity.

LIGHT ON YOUR HEAD:

Dancing with lit candles on your head, in a layered, ornate style: rather like a chandelier on your head, but with lit candles on each tier! This is said to be at the Henna evening of the bride: usually a day or 2 before the wedding, when she has henna artwork painted on her hands and feet, and celebrates with a group of her female friends and family members.

So whenever you enter a home here, take note of the lights, listen to the compliments, and revel in the warmth and happiness emitting from the wide variety of lights in the life of an Egyptian!

... where “shopping basket” takes on a whole new meaning ...

SHOPPING BASKETS

With the lean towards being “green” many stores have produced organic, re-usable, long-life, or even eternal shopping bags. Even shopping trolleys/carts are no longer metal, but plastic and better for all.

It might be interesting for you to be introduced to a method of shopping in Egypt that many people do not know: the re-usable basket, organic, hand-made, and used in a unique way.

DOOR TO DOOR DELIVERY

In Egypt today, you can order delivery on almost everything: 

       + from cup cakes to headache tablets

              + pizza to shampoo

                    + ice cream to diapers 

All you have to do, is pick up the phone, phone whichever shop, stall, restaurant, market, shop you like, and place your order. Many of them are now online, and orders can be placed without even speaking to anyone! 

The order is then taken and the delivery man is despatched: either on foot, or bicycle, motorbike, car or van.

LOWER THE BASKET…

But in many apartment building there are no elevators (lifts) or they may not work, and people do not like to walk all those steps down and then back up laden with groceries. Also, many “cart shops” (shops on wheels) pass by on the streets below and there is no time to dress appropriately, go all the way down to the street level before the shop has moved on! So a novel idea became the norm: a basket with a rope, lowered down the outside wall of the apartment, to the delivery man / cart shop waiting below.

Usually this basket is made of reeds, or leaves, woven locally, or sometimes cheaply imported. Recently however, very fashionable baskets have appeared on the scened:

• brightly colored
• some with smiley faces on some of them
• some covered in fluffy fabric
• some with “bling” shiny jewels
• and for the new bride, some shiny gold and silver

When I recently asked a friend of mine what her opinion was of these baskets, she vehemently expressed that:

“It is important/ vital/ necessary that EVERY house has one!”

Many apartment blocks have a small grocery or shop on the ground floor, or basement of the buildings, and it is easy to phone or call to the sellers on the street, alerting them that you wish to purchase some of their wares!

AND DOWN IT GOES…

Once the order is made, the person upstairs will keep an eye out on the street to see when the purchases are ready to be hauled up. The empty basket will be lowered (some even from as high as 7 floors up) with the required amount of money. The delivery man / shop assistant will place the ordered goods into the basket, along with the change (unless he gets to keep this as a tip!). This basket will then be pulled up by the lady of the house…. which can take a while depending on which floor she lives.

Once the transaction is complete, the door/window will then be closed, the purchases unpacked and either the cooking started, the baby cleaned, the headache soothed or the cakes consumed.

SEE IF YOU CAN SPOT ONE

So when you come and visit, take some time to glance upwards occasionally and see if you can spot one of the fancy baskets (or their older counterparts) being lowered or pulled back up the outside of an apartment building: it is a unique and interesting transaction to observe….. and if you like the idea, walk down a local market and try and buy one of the newest, shiniest, fanciest ones for yourself!

... Throw out the old year, literally …!

OUT WITH THE OLD…. AND IN WITH THE NEW!

Many of us know this saying, but when it comes to the New Year in Egypt, in many places an interesting (if not dangerous) custom has been literally to see the old year out by throwing things out…. the window!

FESTIVITIES

New Year in Egypt follows the usual patterns of a celebration day… bearing in mind that there are different New Years: the Islamic New Year for 2016 will be October 1 and 2 but the more commonly used these days is the Gregorian New Year, which is December 31st (Eve) and January 1st (New Year’s Day).

The usual things that can be seen during the celebrations:

• fireworks (from steel wire set alike and swung around like a lasso, to bug spray cans with the nozzle forced down and the spray set alight….. to imported fancy fireworks)
• loud music (with its powerful rhythm and beat echoing in the back of your head)
• people wearing new clothes, usually beautiful bright colors 
• gatherings of friends and family for food and more food
• choruses of “Kol sanne wi inta tayeb” and “mabrook” (the Arabic words of celebration meaning: congratulations, every year you are kind)
• and for the fancier homes and hotels, glorious displays of fireworks!

AND THEN SOME

One thing that we did find surprising was discovering that people throw old things out of their windows at the turn of the new year: cups, plates and even an old toilet or 2! These are thrown out of the apartment windows onto the road below.

When asking around to try and find out where this tradition came from and what it means, I managed to find out there is a rather interesting saying:

When you have a visitor that you don't really want to return, when they leave, you say:

“Break the water jar behind him” (literally throw the simple clay water jar that is prevalent here in Egypt, on the floor and break it). This is thought to make sure that this unwelcome visitor will not return.

A similar thinking appears to have emerged for seeing the old year leave: to make sure that the bad things that may have happened during the old year do not return for the coming year, you break things behind him, by throwing old stuff out your window. You break the plate, cup, ceramic toilet, pot, behind the old year, making sure that the new one will only be filled with good things!

WHAT ELSE?

Not every one agrees with this custom, and several will say it is nothing more than superstition, but mothers will warn their children not to go outside for fear that something will fall on their heads. The more modern youngsters have started throwing water balloons around, as they view this as more fun and less harmful.

SO…. HAPPY NEW YEAR.

So whenever you happen to read this, we hope that the year ahead of you will be a good one, and that every year will indeed find you being kind, respectful and considerate!

... The most famous Egyptian meal ...

In Egypt, it is difficult to define what is:

• THE national meal
• THE favorite dish of the people
• THE staple food of the land

Egyptians love food, and lots of it… particularly carbohydrates: no meal is usually complete without at least 3 of them!

So it is not surprise that the dish of food known here as KOSHARI (Kusharee, or any other spelling you like) is among one of the many “most famous” Egyptian meals!

WHERE DOES IT COME FROM?

There are a few histories of the dish, my favorite is that of the progressive improvement of the dish as it passed through many nationalities:

• It is said that the origins of this dish were from India: a lentil and rice dish called Khichiri.
• It appears to have become known in Italy (1900s) who then added… pasta (of course) in macaroni form.
• During the First World War, it is said that Egyptian soldiers got hold of this dish, and passed it on to their Egyptian families.
• At this point it was made thoroughly Egyptian: with the addition of Chick peas and crispy onions.

So a truly international, multi-layered, added on dish, culminating in a uniquely Egyptian taste, flavor and design!

WHAT IS IN KOSHAREE?

This is a single dish, with many ingredients:

• the base layer is a starch lover’s heaven: pasta (macaroni, and a very thin spaghetti) and rice… and lots of this!
• then is added lentils (usually dark)
• this then has a lovely tomato/onion/garlic sauce poured over it
• the final garnish is chick peas and crispy delicious caramelized onions.
• optional is a garlic sauce, or a zingy hot sauce (added to taste)

This may sound quite bizarre, but almost all of our guests have found this to be a memorable meal.

THE SERVING OF IT:

As with many meals in Egypt, the preparation is tedious: many ingredients and lots of time required. How it is then served is almost an elegant dance, so fluid are the “chef”, whether it be from a food cart or in one of the specialized kosharee restaurants.

The various food items are stored in large metal (silver) bowls, and traditional served on metal (silver in color) plates.

As the arm of the server sweeps and swoops gracefully and in a flurry of motion up and down the line of carefully created mounds of pasta, rice, lentils, tomato sauce, peas and onions, the pleasant sound of the metal plates beating against each other create a sound and rhythm that gets your mouth watering…. even standing watching them serve is mesmerizing!

If you are in a restaurant with a group, it can be alarming when you see how many plates one waiter is able to carry at a time: but the service is usually brisk and efficient, as there are often people waiting to be seated. So service is quick, eating is a serious business, and then move on to allow the next hungry customers the pleasure of eating their meal!

THE NATION LOVES IT!

Although there are some thoughts that this is a meal for the “poor/common folk” it is a widely popular dish, beloved by almost every Egyptian I know… and fast growing in acclaim with our foreign guests.

So when you come, ask around and find a good place to go to, and watch how they dish up the food, look at people’s faces, and then tuck in and enjoy this uniquely Egyptian meal: one that shows how we can combine many cultures in one and all enjoy it together.

... 2 shiny rings, and a truck-load of brand new furniture ...

Any wedding, in any culture, any country usually brings to the fore the question of who buys what and who pays for what!

In Egypt, one of the fun things that one gets to see periodically, is a truck load of new furniture, accompanied by young enthusiastic men:

• clapping hands
• banging drums
• and singing…     as the truck, and some cars, head towards a specific, new, empty apartment.

VILLAGE vs CITY:

When it comes to who does what, these days in Egypt, there is a growing difference between what happens in the village compared to the city, but there are also differences between the economic classes. But even so, there are still similarities. For now, we will focus on the village, where the whole community gets involved… and how!

THE GROOM:

Traditionally, in some Delta villages, the Groom is responsible (with usually his parents and or wealthy relatives) for buying an apartment. This is ideally 4 rooms: main bedroom, lounge, dining room and a “living room” (guest room, children’s room, guest room, TV room). These apartments usually come with very little. Unfurnished can mean no light fixtures, no bath or toilet fixtures, no cupboards, no kitchen cupboards or sink or working surfaces! So quite a lot needs to be bought.

He is usually responsible for buying all the furniture, fixtures and fittings for the entire house.

THE BRIDE:

On her side, the bride is responsible for the “small items” in the kitchen/dining room: cutlery, crockery, glasses, pots and pans, blenders and mixers, bedding….. Usually she and her parents start buying and storing things in her home from the time of the engagement.

If she is going to live in a home above her prospective in-laws (as many do in the Delta: they build an extra floor above their home for their son and his bride) she will also be expected to buy some new items for her future mother-in-law’s kitchen, as well as some gifts for her future sisters-in-law.

ONE WEEK BEFORE (or so)…

The groom and a selection of advisors (usually his family and a few friends) even up to 10, will make their way to Damietta, on the Eastern branch of the Nile, home of Egypt’s famous carpenters and furniture makers. The group will descend and begin bargaining and arguing over the order and the price. When this is agreed, the purchases will be packed up and transported by friends and family to the home.

2 - 3 DAYS BEFORE:

The truck will arrive in the village. Friends of the groom and his family will accompany the truck with much noise and merriment and go via the Brides house to collect all the things she has collected for the home. The young men will take this to the apartment and unload everything, place them in the correct rooms and then the carpenter will put them together. The gifts from the bride will be left in the kitchen, awaiting the arrival of the women!

SOON AFTER:

The women will arrive (usually from the brides family). They will begin to dust, clean and unpack all the goodies for the kitchen, dining room, beds, and cupboards. The bride is not usually present for this…. but when the ladies are finished, it is custom in many villages that the neighbors and other villagers can come over and have a quick look. But once the women leave, the door is locked until after the wedding.

AND FINALLY THEY ARE MARRIED:

After the wedding the happy couple will be brought back to their new home, furnished, cleaned and prepared… ready for the start of their marriage….. some time alone, but very soon the first visitors and well wishers will arrive!

... Breakfast to go ...

How many times have you heard that “Breakfast is the most important meal of the day?”. In Egypt, breakfast is indeed not to be taken lightly. You won’t usually find many Egyptians simply throwing some cereal in a bowl, adding milk and wolfing it down. Nor eating a quick yoghurt and piece of fruit.

MAIN ITEMS:

Breakfast is a glorious meal, if you eat the traditional breakfast of:

* Fuul (beans)

* Falafel

* Eggs

* Bread

* Salad.

Now some people prefer to cook and prepare there own at home, but many will simply pop out to the nearest breakfast cart and get a quick breakfast to go, and walk briskly back to their own house to eat it with their family.

WHO COMES TO BUY:

It is usually the men who will come out to the street to these glorious breakfast carts. Some will come still in their pyjamas, some will arrive in their cars on the way to work, some will come with their own bowls, some will simply stand at the food cart and eat there. People will usually have their favorite breakfast cart, and indeed some people will travel to another neighborhood just to get their favorite breakfast.

WHAT IS ON A BREAKFAST CART?

These carts are usually odd wooden carts, that have been brightly painted. They have large wheels and look very cheerful! They can be attached to a horse, pushed, or even connected to a bicycle to be moved around. 

Around one side of the cart is usually a small shelf, shoulder height, where you can stand and eat, chatting to your fellow cart-restaurant diners!

On the opposite side is usually the dishing up side: where there is usually a large, silver, small necked pot, in which the fuul (beans) has been simmering for hours. This can be dished up in a small plastic bag, or put in a sandwich, poured into a personal bowl (if you are taking it home) or dished up onto a plate if you are eating at the cart.

There are usually some boiled eggs, falafel ready made, bread and some mixed salad. Oil, salt, spices and chilly can be added to taste.

QUALITY FOOD AND VALUE FOR MONEY:

Many visitors are frightened at the idea of “street food”. And indeed some have better cleanliness standards than others. But ask a few local people where is the best breakfast cart, and they can show you!

Then pop across one morning, for the quickest, freshest, cheapest and filling breakfast I think you will ever have had!!

... the thick, sweet Winter Drink ...

Egyptians are very particular about their drinks! There are many and varied in:

• colour
• ingredients
• look
• texture and 
• temperature.

One of the rather more interesting drinks is called:

SAHLAB.

This is the official Winter Drink of Egypt! It will produce a frown and a gasp of horror if you ask for it when winter is over. Guests have described it as a “hot dessert in a glass”! And indeed it is: a sweet, hot, creamy tea!

INGREDIENTS:

In many a previous era, Sahlab was drunk before tea and coffee were the order of the day. In those times, Sahlab was made (apparently) from the powder by drying and crushing the tuberous root of a wild, white orchid: the orchis mascula. In Ottoman days it is said to have been drunk as an aphrodisiac, as well as being thought to be very nutritious for invalids, and medicinal for gastric irritation. 

In more recent days, this lovely wild orchid is becoming more and more rare, and more expensive to buy, so tastes have become more simplified, more instant.

MODERN SAHLAB:

The new recipe for Sahlab replaces the wild orchid powder with corn-starch and milk. Some people like to add rose-water, to give a floral hint. But this thick milky drink then has many other things added to it, depending on the taste of the drinker:

• coconut
• raisins
• sugar
• nuts (usually pistachio)
• sesame seeds 

Nowadays you can get this all in a pre-packed package, only needing to add water or milk, and perhaps an extra topping or 2! Or you can buy the ready made powder in a local souq (market) from a large bag, measuring out the quantity you want.

DRINK OR CHEW?

With the thick consistency of this sweet milky drink, with nuts and coconut on the top, the biggest dilemma is whether to drink it or eat it! All we recommend is that you have one: take a sip, but have a spoon nearby to scoop out all the goodness within your glass.

But be warned: this is like a meal in itself….. not to be drunk flippantly or with a meal: it is a meal on its own: warm, sweet and very yummy! 

On a cold day in Egypt….

it is just the thing.