... Nubian Life & Culture (Part 2) ...

Nubians have ...

… a love of the river

Nubian life historically has been centred around the Nile River. They believe it to hold the power of life and death. Nubians love to be near the Nile, to see it, to hear it, to smell it, and to sail on it! Their traditional life was based on agriculture, (mainly palm trees) fishing and transporting goods up and down the Nile. 

… a love of the land

Nubian people have a deep and ingrained love of the land: be it the lovely light sand of the desert or the rich Nile soil for agriculture. They love to grow things: fruit trees such as mango trees, flowers, rice and of course palm trees. Agriculture was, and in many cases still is, the basis of the Nubian economy. However, much land and indeed thousands of trees were drowned with the flooding caused by the building of the dams. In the past the harvesting of the palm trees was a key day in the lives of the Nubians. Years ago, dates were equated with gold: the more trees, the more dates, the more gold! Wealth was directly related to how many trees you had. There were celebrations, music and joy when the dates were harvested. Nothing was ever wasted with from the palm tree: dates were eaten and sold fresh, dried and stored for the lean months. The leaves and bark from the trees were used cleverly by the women for a number of handcrafted items, which were used for daily work or as ornaments and decorations.

… a love of music

The music has mostly a gentle and soothing sound: it is inspired by the Nubian landscape: the Nile River and the sands of the desert. The tradition sound, with its gentle yet persistent rhythm, has been blended with more modern styles to become uniquely Nubian. The modern songs tend to express feelings of displacement through music. Although many villages may have been drowned, Nubian culture will not be erased as it lives on in the music. 

One particularly famous singer, Hamza El Din, has a song called: “The Water Wheel” which reflect his memory, as a child, collecting water and listening and being mesmerized by the sound and life of the water.

If you visit Aswan, you are sure to find a group of men in white Galabeyas, with white cloth headdresses, usually smoking profusely, with a large, circular hand held drum or three. Sit with them.  You will hear the sweet gentle sounds of Nubian music: although the words may be of hurt, displacment, lost land and love… the sound is soothing and restful.

… and lovely handcraft

In the past, the Nubian women were famous for their cleverly made and brightly colored and varied handcrafts. Most of which would be made from parts of the palm tree. They would make baskets, plates, mats, fans, rope and decorations from the trees. These would be used for the floor, to hang on the walls and as celebratory gifts. 

They would also make many pottery vessels out of clay from the Nile River: water jars, containers for food, to be used in the traditional ovens.

Bead work was always in demand: lovely necklaces, anklets and rings adorned the beautiful women of Nubia.

Nowadays the need and demand for these are not as high, and are mostly made for commercial use: to sell to tourists. Also the prolific number of date palms is not like it was in the past, before the dams.

Most Nubian women will go to the local Souqs (markets) and buy what they need from there. 

But the creativity and love of beautiful things is not lost to the Nubian people. 

All you have to do is come and visit; see their homes, listen to their music, watch them making henna designs…. and you will feel the love, the pain, the creativity, the rich culture and the beauty of these wonderful people.

... Nubian Life & Culture (Part 1) ...

What’s unique about Nubians?

-  A very brief History

The Nubian people are a culture that is thought to have survived 17 000 years of history, and possibly have one of the earliest civilizations. 

Traditionally these Nubian people lived in what is now Southern Egypt and Northern Sudan: the Lower Nubia (being near the 1st and 2nd cataract) and upper Nubia (near the 2 - 6th cataracts). This in total covered 120 000 square kilometers of land. It was a strategic area and was the passageway for much trade between Africa and the Mediterranean Sea. 

In modern history, due to the building of the dams (Aswan Dam in 1902 and High Dam in the 1960s) and the resultant rising water, particularly Lake Nasser, hundreds of villages were flooded, and over a hundred thousand Nubians had to be re-settled, from Sudan and Egypt. Much of their land is now beneath the waters. This displacement has led to quite severe cultural disintegration with many men moving to northern Egypt to the cities to seek employment.  

Nonetheless, their long and proud history can still be seen and found today.

-  Name and character

The word Nubia is thought to have come from the word “Nub”, which means gold, as in the past it was a land rich in gold. It was known as “Kush”, the land of the Bow. In the days of old, Nubian men were known (and feared) due to their skill and precision with bows and arrows as well as their horsemanship.

Nubians are usually tall, slim and dark, more “African” looking than many of their Arab neighbours. They are known, stereotypically, as being gentle, quiet, helpful, hospitable, reliable and hardworking.

-  Houses / architecture

Houses were traditionally built at the edge of arable land, but close to the river, and thus having the desert as your back garden! This means that traditionally Nubian homes had wonderful views of the river in the front, the desert at the back, and a lovely breeze! 

The design of their traditional homes is unique. Usually they are made of mud, are stand alone homes, and house an extended family.

They are beautiful and practical and elicit a feeling of harmony and peace. They usually have a rectangular design, in the centre being a broad central courtyard of……. sand! This large expanse of sand in the middle is like the heart of every home: it represents the land, the desert: one of the loves of every Nubian. They love to sit on it, walk barefoot on it (Nubian foot massage!), run it through fingers, look at it! There are always mats and chairs handy so that you can sit and rest. This sand is clean, pure, and is usually swept daily to be kept neat and tidy. There is no roof, as it hardly ever rains in the desert!

Around this courtyard are usually corridors of rooms: sleeping quarters, kitchen, bathroom. The house expands as the children marry and need more living space for their new family. 

In the bedrooms, you will often find plates/bowls hanging from the ceiling. These have a dual purpose of reflecting the evil eye and bringing blessings of fertility to the happy couple. On occasion, you can find that some little sparrows have taken up residence in some of these.

The gate/door is usually a key feature of every home. The door will be large and decorated, usually facing the Nile. Near the door will be a reception area / guest room, and within you will be able to see the interior “sandy” courtyard.

The artwork continues on the colored walls of the house: symbols, motives, pictures. Most of these reflect the things they love: the river, palm trees, nature. Some are charms/amulets against the evil eye, some tell of the pilgrimage of the owner to Mecca. Sometimes you will find household utensils or even the odd crocodile hanging from the wall. The paintwork on the mud walls is usually in colors of blue, sand, red-earth (desert at sunset).

The roof is usually domed: to reflect the rays of the sun, which beat down in the long summer months: It also improves the air circulation I am told!

After the re-settlement, these riverine communities have become increasingly dense, many losing the stereotypical sandy courtyard. Yet even so, staying in a Nubian home still gives you a unique experience and a delightful connection with these kind, gentle and hospitable people.

... Twinkle Twinkle Chandelier ...

LIGHTS, LIGHTS, EVERYWHERE!

Egyptians are very poetic and grande in their compliments, but one thing that becomes apparent, if you listen, is that Egyptians value and appreciate light, both in speech…. and in their homes!

Some of the often used compliments here in Egypt are:

• You are the light of Alexandria (town name)
• Now you are back, you have made Egypt full of light
• It was dark, but now it is light because of you.
• Your light is brighter than electricity: you bring light to my home

LIGHTS IN THE VILLAGES:

A long, long time ago, before there was electricity in the villages (and even today in a few scattered homes) kerosene lamps were what brought light into the homes at night. Children would gather on the mat with their homework and mother would place the lit kerosene lamp in the middle of the mat, so each child could see their notebook in the flickering flames. The smell and sound of the kerosene lamp, and the gauze lamp that followed still evoke many memories of a hard but happy life as a child in the villages of Egypt.

After these kerosene lamps came the initial generators: noisy and smelly, and nobody wanted to be the child chosen to run and switch off the generator, plunging the home and farm into darkness! Finally, as the electricity pylons, wires and cables marched their way into the villages, great celebration, excitement and awe surrounded each home as light pervaded the homes at the flip of a switch…. well…. most times!

LIGHTS IN MOSQUES & CHURCHES:

In most mosques and churches you will see lights: hanging from the beams, ceilings or on the walls. Some are very ornate, large chandelier type, others more simple, ceramic but nonetheless beautiful. For morning and evening prayers, when it is dark, the mosques and churches emit welcoming lights to all those who seek to enter.

LIGHTS IN THE HOMES:

Egyptians generally like LOTS of lights in their home…. as many as you can fit in one room…. and then add a standing lamp! When asked, they cannot explain why: it’s just how it is! A well-lit home is like happiness! There are 2 main “fashions” when it comes to lighting your home, but one theme is the same in both: more is better….. even if you bump your head on the chandelier! The more the merrier… you can never have enough lights!!!

* CLASSIC

This look usually has a Chandelier in the middle of the room: big, ornate, fancy and expensive! Chandeliers have been in fashion here since the early 1900’s, traditionally copper, now metal, or if you need to go inexpensive…. plastic (which is supposed to look like metal!)

On the walls then, will be added wall lamps, or hidden spot lights, or fluorescent tube lighting behind the railings! Add on a few lamps on the side tables and that will be a standard room.

* MODERN

The modern look is what they call the “American” style: more subtle and peaceful. Hidden wall lamps and spots, lamps on lovely small tables, and mood lighting.

This can include a “Disco ball” light in the middle of your lounge, which can change color and music at the touch of a button.

Light fittings and fixtures are one of the most important things on the list of a new home owner: and the selection available at light shops is completely overwhelming in size, color, range and quantity.

LIGHT ON YOUR HEAD:

Dancing with lit candles on your head, in a layered, ornate style: rather like a chandelier on your head, but with lit candles on each tier! This is said to be at the Henna evening of the bride: usually a day or 2 before the wedding, when she has henna artwork painted on her hands and feet, and celebrates with a group of her female friends and family members.

So whenever you enter a home here, take note of the lights, listen to the compliments, and revel in the warmth and happiness emitting from the wide variety of lights in the life of an Egyptian!

... where “shopping basket” takes on a whole new meaning ...

SHOPPING BASKETS

With the lean towards being “green” many stores have produced organic, re-usable, long-life, or even eternal shopping bags. Even shopping trolleys/carts are no longer metal, but plastic and better for all.

It might be interesting for you to be introduced to a method of shopping in Egypt that many people do not know: the re-usable basket, organic, hand-made, and used in a unique way.

DOOR TO DOOR DELIVERY

In Egypt today, you can order delivery on almost everything: 

       + from cup cakes to headache tablets

              + pizza to shampoo

                    + ice cream to diapers 

All you have to do, is pick up the phone, phone whichever shop, stall, restaurant, market, shop you like, and place your order. Many of them are now online, and orders can be placed without even speaking to anyone! 

The order is then taken and the delivery man is despatched: either on foot, or bicycle, motorbike, car or van.

LOWER THE BASKET…

But in many apartment building there are no elevators (lifts) or they may not work, and people do not like to walk all those steps down and then back up laden with groceries. Also, many “cart shops” (shops on wheels) pass by on the streets below and there is no time to dress appropriately, go all the way down to the street level before the shop has moved on! So a novel idea became the norm: a basket with a rope, lowered down the outside wall of the apartment, to the delivery man / cart shop waiting below.

Usually this basket is made of reeds, or leaves, woven locally, or sometimes cheaply imported. Recently however, very fashionable baskets have appeared on the scened:

• brightly colored
• some with smiley faces on some of them
• some covered in fluffy fabric
• some with “bling” shiny jewels
• and for the new bride, some shiny gold and silver

When I recently asked a friend of mine what her opinion was of these baskets, she vehemently expressed that:

“It is important/ vital/ necessary that EVERY house has one!”

Many apartment blocks have a small grocery or shop on the ground floor, or basement of the buildings, and it is easy to phone or call to the sellers on the street, alerting them that you wish to purchase some of their wares!

AND DOWN IT GOES…

Once the order is made, the person upstairs will keep an eye out on the street to see when the purchases are ready to be hauled up. The empty basket will be lowered (some even from as high as 7 floors up) with the required amount of money. The delivery man / shop assistant will place the ordered goods into the basket, along with the change (unless he gets to keep this as a tip!). This basket will then be pulled up by the lady of the house…. which can take a while depending on which floor she lives.

Once the transaction is complete, the door/window will then be closed, the purchases unpacked and either the cooking started, the baby cleaned, the headache soothed or the cakes consumed.

SEE IF YOU CAN SPOT ONE

So when you come and visit, take some time to glance upwards occasionally and see if you can spot one of the fancy baskets (or their older counterparts) being lowered or pulled back up the outside of an apartment building: it is a unique and interesting transaction to observe….. and if you like the idea, walk down a local market and try and buy one of the newest, shiniest, fanciest ones for yourself!

... Throw out the old year, literally …!

OUT WITH THE OLD…. AND IN WITH THE NEW!

Many of us know this saying, but when it comes to the New Year in Egypt, in many places an interesting (if not dangerous) custom has been literally to see the old year out by throwing things out…. the window!

FESTIVITIES

New Year in Egypt follows the usual patterns of a celebration day… bearing in mind that there are different New Years: the Islamic New Year for 2016 will be October 1 and 2 but the more commonly used these days is the Gregorian New Year, which is December 31st (Eve) and January 1st (New Year’s Day).

The usual things that can be seen during the celebrations:

• fireworks (from steel wire set alike and swung around like a lasso, to bug spray cans with the nozzle forced down and the spray set alight….. to imported fancy fireworks)
• loud music (with its powerful rhythm and beat echoing in the back of your head)
• people wearing new clothes, usually beautiful bright colors 
• gatherings of friends and family for food and more food
• choruses of “Kol sanne wi inta tayeb” and “mabrook” (the Arabic words of celebration meaning: congratulations, every year you are kind)
• and for the fancier homes and hotels, glorious displays of fireworks!

AND THEN SOME

One thing that we did find surprising was discovering that people throw old things out of their windows at the turn of the new year: cups, plates and even an old toilet or 2! These are thrown out of the apartment windows onto the road below.

When asking around to try and find out where this tradition came from and what it means, I managed to find out there is a rather interesting saying:

When you have a visitor that you don't really want to return, when they leave, you say:

“Break the water jar behind him” (literally throw the simple clay water jar that is prevalent here in Egypt, on the floor and break it). This is thought to make sure that this unwelcome visitor will not return.

A similar thinking appears to have emerged for seeing the old year leave: to make sure that the bad things that may have happened during the old year do not return for the coming year, you break things behind him, by throwing old stuff out your window. You break the plate, cup, ceramic toilet, pot, behind the old year, making sure that the new one will only be filled with good things!

WHAT ELSE?

Not every one agrees with this custom, and several will say it is nothing more than superstition, but mothers will warn their children not to go outside for fear that something will fall on their heads. The more modern youngsters have started throwing water balloons around, as they view this as more fun and less harmful.

SO…. HAPPY NEW YEAR.

So whenever you happen to read this, we hope that the year ahead of you will be a good one, and that every year will indeed find you being kind, respectful and considerate!

... The most famous Egyptian meal ...

In Egypt, it is difficult to define what is:

• THE national meal
• THE favorite dish of the people
• THE staple food of the land

Egyptians love food, and lots of it… particularly carbohydrates: no meal is usually complete without at least 3 of them!

So it is not surprise that the dish of food known here as KOSHARI (Kusharee, or any other spelling you like) is among one of the many “most famous” Egyptian meals!

WHERE DOES IT COME FROM?

There are a few histories of the dish, my favorite is that of the progressive improvement of the dish as it passed through many nationalities:

• It is said that the origins of this dish were from India: a lentil and rice dish called Khichiri.
• It appears to have become known in Italy (1900s) who then added… pasta (of course) in macaroni form.
• During the First World War, it is said that Egyptian soldiers got hold of this dish, and passed it on to their Egyptian families.
• At this point it was made thoroughly Egyptian: with the addition of Chick peas and crispy onions.

So a truly international, multi-layered, added on dish, culminating in a uniquely Egyptian taste, flavor and design!

WHAT IS IN KOSHAREE?

This is a single dish, with many ingredients:

• the base layer is a starch lover’s heaven: pasta (macaroni, and a very thin spaghetti) and rice… and lots of this!
• then is added lentils (usually dark)
• this then has a lovely tomato/onion/garlic sauce poured over it
• the final garnish is chick peas and crispy delicious caramelized onions.
• optional is a garlic sauce, or a zingy hot sauce (added to taste)

This may sound quite bizarre, but almost all of our guests have found this to be a memorable meal.

THE SERVING OF IT:

As with many meals in Egypt, the preparation is tedious: many ingredients and lots of time required. How it is then served is almost an elegant dance, so fluid are the “chef”, whether it be from a food cart or in one of the specialized kosharee restaurants.

The various food items are stored in large metal (silver) bowls, and traditional served on metal (silver in color) plates.

As the arm of the server sweeps and swoops gracefully and in a flurry of motion up and down the line of carefully created mounds of pasta, rice, lentils, tomato sauce, peas and onions, the pleasant sound of the metal plates beating against each other create a sound and rhythm that gets your mouth watering…. even standing watching them serve is mesmerizing!

If you are in a restaurant with a group, it can be alarming when you see how many plates one waiter is able to carry at a time: but the service is usually brisk and efficient, as there are often people waiting to be seated. So service is quick, eating is a serious business, and then move on to allow the next hungry customers the pleasure of eating their meal!

THE NATION LOVES IT!

Although there are some thoughts that this is a meal for the “poor/common folk” it is a widely popular dish, beloved by almost every Egyptian I know… and fast growing in acclaim with our foreign guests.

So when you come, ask around and find a good place to go to, and watch how they dish up the food, look at people’s faces, and then tuck in and enjoy this uniquely Egyptian meal: one that shows how we can combine many cultures in one and all enjoy it together.

... 2 shiny rings, and a truck-load of brand new furniture ...

Any wedding, in any culture, any country usually brings to the fore the question of who buys what and who pays for what!

In Egypt, one of the fun things that one gets to see periodically, is a truck load of new furniture, accompanied by young enthusiastic men:

• clapping hands
• banging drums
• and singing…     as the truck, and some cars, head towards a specific, new, empty apartment.

VILLAGE vs CITY:

When it comes to who does what, these days in Egypt, there is a growing difference between what happens in the village compared to the city, but there are also differences between the economic classes. But even so, there are still similarities. For now, we will focus on the village, where the whole community gets involved… and how!

THE GROOM:

Traditionally, in some Delta villages, the Groom is responsible (with usually his parents and or wealthy relatives) for buying an apartment. This is ideally 4 rooms: main bedroom, lounge, dining room and a “living room” (guest room, children’s room, guest room, TV room). These apartments usually come with very little. Unfurnished can mean no light fixtures, no bath or toilet fixtures, no cupboards, no kitchen cupboards or sink or working surfaces! So quite a lot needs to be bought.

He is usually responsible for buying all the furniture, fixtures and fittings for the entire house.

THE BRIDE:

On her side, the bride is responsible for the “small items” in the kitchen/dining room: cutlery, crockery, glasses, pots and pans, blenders and mixers, bedding….. Usually she and her parents start buying and storing things in her home from the time of the engagement.

If she is going to live in a home above her prospective in-laws (as many do in the Delta: they build an extra floor above their home for their son and his bride) she will also be expected to buy some new items for her future mother-in-law’s kitchen, as well as some gifts for her future sisters-in-law.

ONE WEEK BEFORE (or so)…

The groom and a selection of advisors (usually his family and a few friends) even up to 10, will make their way to Damietta, on the Eastern branch of the Nile, home of Egypt’s famous carpenters and furniture makers. The group will descend and begin bargaining and arguing over the order and the price. When this is agreed, the purchases will be packed up and transported by friends and family to the home.

2 - 3 DAYS BEFORE:

The truck will arrive in the village. Friends of the groom and his family will accompany the truck with much noise and merriment and go via the Brides house to collect all the things she has collected for the home. The young men will take this to the apartment and unload everything, place them in the correct rooms and then the carpenter will put them together. The gifts from the bride will be left in the kitchen, awaiting the arrival of the women!

SOON AFTER:

The women will arrive (usually from the brides family). They will begin to dust, clean and unpack all the goodies for the kitchen, dining room, beds, and cupboards. The bride is not usually present for this…. but when the ladies are finished, it is custom in many villages that the neighbors and other villagers can come over and have a quick look. But once the women leave, the door is locked until after the wedding.

AND FINALLY THEY ARE MARRIED:

After the wedding the happy couple will be brought back to their new home, furnished, cleaned and prepared… ready for the start of their marriage….. some time alone, but very soon the first visitors and well wishers will arrive!