... rapping for respect towards women ...

Introducing…. Mayam Mahmoud! She is a young Egyptian woman, who is playing her part
in trying to make her country stand up, listen and do something about the endemic harassment that takes place daily in this country. She first appeared in “Arabs got talent” and very quickly was award the “Index Arts Award” for the voice of free expression. The dress she was wearing for the occasion was one with examples of much graffiti that has appeared in Egypt, about women’s rights. She raps strongly about the rights of women and above all how freedom is our duty before it becomes her right!

http://www.indexoncensorship.org/2014/03/the-index-arts-award-winner-mayam-mahmoud/

SO WHAT IS HARRASMENT?
In Egypt, it is said that 98% of all foreigners who visit, and 83% of all Egyptian women have been harassed in some way in their lives:

* whistles
     * lewd words
          * leering looks and jeers
               * being grabbed
                    * being stalked
                         * being constantly telephoned
                              *…… and worse!

Mayam is a public figure of the new generation of women who will no longer “just live with” what is now so prevalent in this country. She talks about the things that others do not have the courage to talk about. She brings about a sense of hope for so many young girls, enthusiastic female students and young women who daily have to live with a barrage of filth from boys and mostly younger men as they walk the streets to school and university and take public transport back home.

IS THIS ACCEPTABLE?
One of the problems is that some men have come to accept it as their “right”. As I was recently told by a young woman who had a truly horrid experience in Cairo, when confronted by other men as they tried to protect her, the harass-ers claimed:
“We are Egyptian, this is what we do!”

Somehow blame is always put on what the women are (or not) wearing, but most research indicates that clothing has very little to do with the real reason! The lack of respect and blatant disregard of women as anything but a “thing to be grabbed” is becoming increasingly evident.

SO WHAT CAN BE DONE?
It must be said that usually for every male (or group of males) who is taunting a woman or girl, one or more who will be willing to come to help assistance can be found. Many men will try and help, and heap an angry tirade on the perpetrators, possibly even a punch or 2!

However many feel that a lot more can and needs to be done within the legal and justice systems, as well as education in schools and reinforcement in the homes: all women should be treated with respect, and if not, then the males responsible should be dealt with strongly and fairly.

AND WHAT ABOUT VISITORS:
We would like to encourage all those foreigner visitors to dress modestly, not aiding the prevailing stereotype that all foreigners are “loose”! Also, single women should not travel around alone, especially if this is a first visit to the country. If you are going out at night, go in a group, and make sure you have a trusted person who can speak the local language with you.

Speak out against it where you can, encourage the women and girls around you not to be ashamed and to stand strong and demand change in the nation. But also encourage the men and boys you meet to respect women and girls, and be their protectors, not their harassers!

… people come from everywhere…

To experience Egypt fully, you have to go to a local SOUQ (market): this is where the soul of the country lives! It is an overwhelming onslaught to all of your senses!

WHAT IS A SOUQ?
It is a local market, where sellers come from near and far to sell their products. Some sellers have a permanent shop from which to sell, but others simply “set up shop” when they arrive, find a suitable spot and begin selling. Goods are brought to the market via:
* donkey
     * wheelbarrow
          * train
               * taxi
                    * pull along trolleys
                         * and on heads!

WHEN ARE THESE SOUQs OPEN?
Most markets are open almost daily and almost 24 hours! They are usually along streets and alley ways. In some villages though, there is a weekly market, where the farmers gather their produce at the end of the week and come and sell on the streets. So what is usually a normal road into the heart of the village becomes an area teeming with noise, colors, and smells, and frenetic activity and shouting as the farmers (and wives) try to sell off their produce: a labyrinth of enthusiasm and freshness! It is best to go earlier in the day (around 9am) once the stalls are set up, the heat is still bearable, and the sellers are at their most enthusiastic!

WHAT DO THEY SELL?
These local markets tend to sell a lot of produce: fruit, veg, leafy greens, but all arranged in beautiful, artistic displays, showing how Egyptians love patterns and symmetry.
There is also a lot of fish (which is often so fresh it is still flapping on the tables, and sometimes they jump right off!)
Meat is always popular, though possibly not how you are used to seeing it, nor the types of meat you are used to seeing. The meat will be hung out in the street, chunks cut off as needed. The “innards and organs” are very popular here, so watch where you walk, or your head may hit a large lung!
Poultry and rabbits are a much loved source of protein. Many guests find it terribly difficult to accept that these fluffy creatures, hopping around will be someone’s dinner! But rabbit stew is a favorite of many Egyptians, and often offered in restaurants. Selection of chickens (or ducks, turkeys and even the odd ostrich) is done while they are alive. Then in an alarmingly short time, it will be handed over to you, cleaned and ready to cook.
Sundry clothing items: there will always be shops selling pajamas, slip slops, slippers, scarves and veils.
General shops: selling every conceivable piece of plastic and glass for the home: glasses, trays, salt and pepper pots, jugs… all made in China!
Spices and lentils: always available are the earthy pungent spices, in very large bags. Lentils, rice and macaroni are ever-present: the nation loves them!
Bread: every souk will have a gloriously smelling bakery, selling fresh bread and a huge variety of biscuits, which just have to be eaten while drinking a cup of black tea, from a glass!
Tea: you will always find a man carrying a tray with glasses of tea or coffee, ready for the sellers or the buyers to reach out for, purchase and drink. If you feel the need, someone will always find something for you to sit on, and you can sip you tea, munch on a biscuit and watch the world pass by!

SOCIAL… as well as functional!
As well as the business of buying and selling, the Souq is the heart of the community. News is shared and spread, laughter and tears, encouragement and sadness are given and received. Many sellers have been selling in that same spot for generations, so there is often a sense of camaraderie, family, community and caring: and of course the usual angry outbursts between people, heated arguing… then followed by hugging and cheek kissing, and finally a shared cup of tea!

WELCOME IN EGYPT…!

… let the water flow…

Egypt lies along the Nile River, and from ancient times, the challenge of getting the water from the Nile to the farming land has been ever-present. Now with electricity, generators and pumps, the whole speed, sound and manner of moving water has changed. But if you look very hard, you can find the slow, steady, methodical and even mesmerizing manner of moving water….

THE ANNUAL FLOODING:
This flooding was a blessing but also a challenge! Ancient life was based on the rhythms of the annual flooding: it was predictable and timely. It is said that June 17th was the night of the drop of the “Celestial Tear”, which dropped from the heavens and started the annual floods. Usually these floods reached Southern Egyptian borders in July, reached Aswan in mid-August, lasting 4 - 6 weeks. The receding of the waters was during October/November. The Nilometer (a vertical column, like an ancient water-ruler) was used to predict and measure the extent of the flooding, and taxes on agriculture were set by the predicted harvests based on the amount of water.
The challenge was how to expand the cultivation area by moving water from the Nile during the dry summer. The Egyptians invented and used many simple machines to aid agriculture.

THE LEGENDARY SHADUF:
I think almost all of us studied the “Ancient Egyptians” in our school years, drawing pyramids, making copies of the mummies and painstakingly re-creating an obelisk. But for me, the thing that kept me amazed was the “shaduf”: the irrigation tool of old. It is basically a bucket and lever lifting machine. There is an upright frame, a long tapering pole, a bucket/basket/skin bag on one end, and a counterweight on the other. With an almost effortless pull by the operator, the pole can be swung and lifted, scooping and carrying water from the pond/river to an irrigation tunnel, which leads the water to the fields. It is said that a shaduf could transport up to 2 500 litres a day.

WATER WHEELS:
This was normally a wheel with buckets or clay pots along the circumference. Buckets were emptied into a trough/aqueduct. It was operated by the flow of the river, and was the first non-human operated lifting device. The current of the stream turns the wheel, and lowers the pots into the stream and fills them up. As the wheel continues to turn, the pots are upturned and emptied into the canals or fields. The cycle then continues…
In the area called The Fayoum, (100kms outside Cairo) there are about 200 such waterwheels. Hamza El Din, a singer, composed a song on the “Oud” called “Water wheel”, telling of the memories and soothing sounds created by the wheels he remembered as a child.

SAKIA:
The Persian water wheel: this was oxen-powered and had pots on a rope with 2 pulleys. This kind of water wheel was usually used to raise water out of a well, usually with a child or 2 guiding and encouraging the animals to keep walking.

THE ARCHIMEDES SCREW:
This was apparently designed by the legendary Greek Scholar, Archimedes, on a visit to Egypt. Its purpose was to transfer water from a low-lying body of water to irrigation ditches higher up. It consisted of a helix spiral inside a cylinder, that is open at both ends. The lower end was placed in water, at a slant. It was then manually operated, by turning the handle. As the helix was rotated, water would slide upwards, caught in the spirals, until pouring out at the top of the tube.

TODAY:
All over the Delta region you can hear the throbbing sound of pumps, and daily watch thousands of litres of water being transferred to fields further away from the canals or the rivers. Some of the ancient examples can be found in some museums and hotels….but if you wander into some distant villages you might still see examples from old, and be amazed at their simplicity yet effectiveness.

...the wonderful ironing men of Egypt...

Each of us has a household chore that we absolutely dread. I know that even the idea of ironing anything other than a handkerchief or a small pillow case send chills down my spine. I tend to iron in more creases than get rid of them!

I know many people who find ironing relaxing and fulfilling…. but for people like me, one of the things you will want to do fairly soon after arriving in Egypt is to find the closest:

* Makwagi
    * dhobi
        * ironing man
            * laundry


WHAT IS A MAKWAGI?
The word “makwa” means an iron. A “makwagi” is a person who irons, and here in Egypt, almost on every street you will find an ironing man.

A TRADITIONAL OCCUPATION:
Ironing here is almost an art-form, and indeed it is a skill and an occupation that is sometimes passed on down the generations, from father to son. The little “shops” that you will find in every neighborhood are sometimes so small that you will walk past them without even noticing! The rooms are usually very small, very basic but continuously busy, all year round.

Egyptians take a great pride in their clothes, and to appear in public in un-ironed clothes is frowned upon. So each Makwagi will usually have a set of dedicated customers, usually within a close distance of his shop. However, some people will not change the Makwagi that their parents used, or they used before changing suburbs, and will insist that their best clothes still go to the original man!

A DAILY CHORE:
You can drop you washed clothes at the Makwagi yourself, or have his “assistant’ (runner/delivery person) collect the clothes for you. If it is urgent, you can sit and wait until it is finished. People can spend many pleasant hours waiting for their ironing to be finished, chatting about the neighbourhood, the country and indeed the problems of the world. It is a good place to watch people pass by and share a cup of tea together!
Once the ironing is done, it is either folded carefully or hung on a hanger and then delivered to your home, or you pick it up on the way home.

THE IRONING PROCESS:
Depending on the age of the Makwagi, you will find irons both ancient and modern:
* many still have the old heavy irons that are heated on coals
* some even have electric irons
… but I have never seen a steam iron!
And this is where some of you may balk at the process! To “spritz” water onto the dry garments, many of the older Makwagi’s do not use a neat little spray bottle! They will take a sip of water from a nearby cup and spray it out of their mouth onto the garment and then happily iron away! This is how it has been taught from generation to generation, and these men have perfected the “spray and iron” method!

THE COST:
You might be surprised at how “cheap” the cost is, compared to getting ironing done in your country! Depending on the suburb and the fame of the Makwagi, (and of course how good your arabic is) a local person will pay:
Le1-2 per shirt (depending how complicated it is!!)

GIVE IT A TRY!!
So while you are visiting here, don’t pay the exorbitant costs of the hotels, (many of whom will use the local Makwagi anyway)…. ask around and find out where the best local ironing man is, take your bundle of clothes to him, and then experience the meticulous attention to detail, the pride in their work, which goes on: day in, day out, 6 days a week, around 11 hours a day….. relieving you of an arduous chore and providing income to a Makwagi and his family!

... and the 2 shall become 1 ...

Although cultures can be so varied in many instances, it is surprising the similarities in weddings around the world! And here in Egypt, you will see many things that you instantly recognize:

* lovely young lady in a fancy white gown
          * suave young man in formal suit and tie
                    * wedding car with flowers on the bonnet
                              * music wherever they go!!!


THE ENGAGEMENT:
What would have happened prior to this day, is that the 2 families would have got together to discuss and agree if this wedding was possible. If all parties agreed, there would be a buying of the wedding gold: usually a ring, a necklace and a bracelet (a set), and possibly a bangle or 2, the cost depending on the income of the bridegroom.
These would have been presented to the bride at an engagement party: cake, soda and music being vital aspects of the engagement party.

After the engagement there would have been a flurry of purchasing: the bridegroom buying most of the furniture for the house, and the bride the “electronics” for the kitchen.
When the contents of their new home are purchased and ready, the wedding can proceed.

THE WEDDING:
There is usually a signing of “The Book” in the presence of representatives from both families, the couple, and an Imam (leader in a Mosque). This can be done before the wedding day, at a mosque, or at the celebration venue the day of the wedding.

The bride and groom arrive (usually) to much music, cheering, clapping and dancing (with a video crew following them, and a photographer.) Inside the venue will be beautifully set tables, a huge draped couch for the bridal couple and a large empty dance floor. Also there are normally many large screens around the room, and there is video streaming of the couple live throughout the celebration!

Depending on the venue and the income, there will be some sort of ceremony: men with large swords, rising stages, ‘love mist’ (smoke), and a huge trolley bearing the massive and multiple wedding cakes!

There is also lots of food: sandwiches, cakes, drinks, small savory pastries.... and then the dancing! Continual loud music, very very loud,  with energetic dancing: but usually the women separately from the men, except the bridal couple, who have a few “alone” dances!

The wedding is a night of much celebration, happiness and fun: children are always welcome and run around the place at dizzying speeds! Relatives and friends would have come from all over.... and the party usually goes on until the small hours of the morning… or until sunrise, as is the fashion at the moment.

...and the happy couple will head to their brand new shiny and sparkly home to begin their life together.

... and a time to eat meat ...

We all have our favorite holidays and annual events in our lives. Here in Egypt, people have 2 religious / public holidays every year:

THE 2 EIDS!
These 2 Eid festivals are a time of celebration and feasting and have religious meaning.
The lesser Eid (shorter, smaller) is the Eid il Fitr, which is the one day celebration at the end of the Ramadan month of fasting.
The second Eid is the one we will be looking at here. It has many names:

* Eid al Adha
    * Feast of Sacrifice
        * the Major Festival
            * The Greater Eid
                * Eid il Kabir

THE GREATER EID.
According to Islamic tradition, this Eid honors the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his first-born son (Ishmael) as an act of submission and obedience to Allah. But Allah intervened and provided a lamb instead. So it is a time to remember the value of self-denial that Abraham modeled with his willingness to sacrifice his son.

WHEN IS THIS EID?
It is a 4 day public holiday, and it is on the 10th day of the Dhu al-hijab (in the Islamic Calendar). If we use the Gregorian calendar, the actual date will vary by 11 days (earlier) every year. But in 2012-2014 the Greater Eid was in the month of October.
The timing is linked to the annular Haj, and the first day of Eid coincides with the final day of the Haj, when the pilgrims descend from Mt Arafat (a hill east of Mecca).

HOW IS IT CELEBRATED?
On the first day, it begins with a special version of the daily dawn prayer. People will usually wear their best clothes, or their new Eid clothes for this day. At the end of the prayers, there will be the customary embracing and greetings of the Eid:
“Eid Mubarak” (blessings of Eid).

And then the “fun” begins. Around 6/7am (depending on the time of the sunrise that year) the sacrificing will begin. All those who can afford an animal, will have bought one prior to this day. It could be a camel, a bull or a sheep: you see these sheep being transported home in trucks, cars, barrows… and even on boats! In many markets special stalls are made to house these animals and sell them to people 2 weeks prior to the Eid. Some will get the slaughtering done by a butcher, but in many homes it is done (literally) on the doorstep of their houses.
For many of us (and some Egyptian women I know) the idea of watching or getting involved with the slaughtering is not something we would call fun, but in the villages, the children and men are usually very excited and it is an annual event that involves the whole family.

The most experienced (and fit) man will be allocated the task of the master stroke, and then the cleaning and cutting up will be done. The children love to put their hands in the blood and make hand prints or patterns on the walls of the houses!
The more experienced women will then do the “breakfast” of the day: liver and kidneys, cooked with onions and spices, to be eaten with delicious bread.

The cleaning continues until the meat is divided up and ready to be distributed.

WHO EATS THE MEAT?
The idea of Eid is that EVERYONE gets to eat meat that day! So according to Islamic tradition, the meat must be divided into 3 parts:
1 = is for you!
2 = is for you relatives/friends/neighbours
3 = is for the poor in your community

In some countries, you can donate money to various organizations and they will buy and distribute meat to the poor on your behalf. So at the main meal of the day, the goal is that every household in the country is eating meat with friends and relatives.

AND THEN THE GOING OUT!
After a huge and satisfying meal (MEAT, rice, bread, salads) people will then go out and visit friends and relatives. The giving of gifts sometimes happens, and everyone wears their newest and best clothing and eats special Eid biscuits, called Kahk and drink copious cups of tea. The children rush around with glee as the first day of the Eid draws to a close…. and there are still 3 more!

The feasting, meat eating, sharing, going out, visiting and wearing of fabulous clothes continues until all 4 days draw to a close….
and school begins again….
and off to work the people go…..
But looking forward to the next Greater Eid the following year.

... to tip or not to tip? It’s not really a question ...

One of the day to day normalities of life in Egypt that can cause much stress to first time visitors, is the question of “baksheesh” (tipping).

Not only does it add unforeseen costs to the budget at every turn, but it tends to annoy and irritate at every turn.

What is helpful is to have a total paradigm shift of the norm in “your country”! The immediate thinking when a hand is held out, or you are given the “look”, or the person lingers at the exit door is...

* That is what they are being paid to do!
     * Why should I tip them? It is part of their job!
          * We only tip waiters back home.
               * We usually only ever tip in a sit-down restaurant!
                    * But the bill already includes a 10% service charge!

WHY THIS PERVASIVE SOCIAL NORM?
Many of us make assumptions based on what happens in our own countries. One of the first is that people here are being “paid” for their jobs so should not need extra money from us just for doing their jobs. Well, sometimes they are paid, and sometimes they depend on these tips as their only source of income.
However, the basic stipulated wage is frighteningly low, and with the usual large families this culture embraces, most people try and work 2 jobs in an attempt to get enough money for food and schooling.
Some “doormen” are given accommodation in exchange for work, so need every “guinea” (Egyptian pound) that they can possible get: your tips are their livelihood.

And the “service charge” on the bill does not actually go to those who have provided the service. It is simply an extra add-on that goes straight into the till. The waiters themselves are usually paid a very small salary, and look to customers to supplement this meager income.

So yes, it is expected, indeed almost compulsory... for you as a foreigner and even Egyptians themselves! But understand that a small tip can make a big difference to an individual and his family.

Some have said that we continue this cycle of begging/dependency by tipping everyone everywhere, but the weak economy, the high unemployment, and the staggering surplus labour, are all massive issues which will take many years to resolve.

CONSIDER IT AN ACT OF CHARITY:
Instead of getting angry and irritated at every exit and entrance, rather take this “tipping” culture as an act of charity. Understand that as a foreigner who has flown into Egypt, and is a tourist, you are far wealthier than most of the population of this country. Their incomes are way below yours, their housing, education, clothing, food are nothing near yours. So be kind, generous and give out a few coins as you go along, knowing that it will help a family.

WHEN AND HOW TO TIP:
For any basic level service (opening doors, rubbish collection person, shoe keeper at the mosque, use of bathroom) Egyptian Pounds : Le1-2 a time. If you are in a high tourist area, or upper class hotel, perhaps more.
Restaurants: Le5 per customer (again depending on the restaurant and the total bill!)
Delivery man: Le2-5
Tourist drivers and tour guides: they usually get an additional 10-15 percent of charge as a personal tip. But check this out with your trip co-ordinator if you are uncertain.
Person carrying your bags: Le2-5 (depending on how many bags and what class /mode of transport you have taken!)

Of course if you are very pleased with someone’s service, you are welcome to give larger amounts. If you see someone begging on the streets and you would like to give, again, you are most welcome. But do take care not to flash too much cash, as there could be eyes watching. Keep your tipping coins and notes in a separate pocket or wallet.

Watch other Egyptians and see how they hand over the tip: discreetly and with respect. So be subtle and considerate in the way you tip.

WHEN NOT TO TIP:
If people are hassling you (and sometimes in the high tourist areas you may find this) you do not have to tip anything. Also, if the service has been really bad, then again, don’t feel you have to. There is a balance between not offending people by not tipping, and being taken advantage of! But be happy with your decision either way!

If you have the joy of visiting some of the rural areas, there is less of an expectation for tipping. They just love having you in their homes and villages. So if you offer a tip, it may be refused. Sometimes they forbid their children to take money from you. If this is the case, a small gift would be more appropriate: a lovely cake from a nearby patisserie, an item of clothing for the children, some stationary for school. The giving and receiving of gifts in the rural areas is something with which they are familiar, enjoy and appreciate.

So we encourage you to keep a sense of perspective, and along with lots of small change, bring a lot of patience with you!

Give with a cheerful heart...
and don’t let the cost of a few dollars a day ruin your holiday!