...the beverage that is a MUST...

Tea drinking in Egypt has been described as:

   * an integral part of the culture: its symbol
        * an obsession
             * a timeless tradition
                  * a passion
                       * a past-time
                            * the main source of energy
                                 * a way of life
                                      * and THE cultural beverage!

But whatever you call it, when you are in Egypt, you will drink it, or rather you WILL drink it, and lots of it. You will find the “compulsory” cup of tea thrust into your hands at every opportunity. 

THE HISTORY:

Apparently, black tea was first brought here by the Venetian traders, who mainly used the port city of Alexandria. Since then, drinking of “normal” tea has flourished and grown, and now it occupies 70% of the beverage market! Most of the tea is imported from Kenya and Sri Lanka, Egypt being the one of the world’s largest importers of tea.

HOW IS THE TEA MADE?

Well, there is not a long, intricate ceremony or ritual with Egyptian tea, but it is rather a passion, a duty, a MUST. So in people’s homes, sidewalk cafes, shops, random places in the city, all that is required is a chair, or even a mat to sit on to start the tea drinking. Within minutes, you will be presented with your tea. 

There are said to be 2 kinds of tea making:

1. Koshary tea (from the North). This tends to be lighter in color, and not as strong: half a teaspoon of loose leaves per cup, and is usually spooned into the cup of hot water and stirred.
2. Saidi tea (from the South) This is strong, heavy and has been boiled for up to 5 minutes. 2 teaspoons of tea leaves per cup.

Both will be served with a lot of sugar: therein lies the energy. Most foreigners prefer the lighter tea from the North. But don't be alarmed if you have a bitter cup of strong southern tea: asking for extra sugar is never a problem!

Tea is not usually served in porcelain cups or pottery/ceramic mugs: it must be glass, usually without a handle! The Egyptians tell me that half the joy of drinking tea is admiring the deep rich colour. You will find that once you get over not having a porcelain or pottery cup, you feel deprived if you can’t see what you are drinking. Most guests go home and buy a glass cup for their tea!

Often you can ask for mint tea, which usually means you will be given a large sprig of mint to add to your glass! This gives it a refreshing flavor and fragrance, and mint is always good for any stomach gripes you may have!

OTHER TEAS?

It is said that the Pharaohs were the ones to drink Hisbiscuis (bright red) and fenugreek (yellow) tea. Hibiscus tea is more popular in the South where it is grown, and can be drunk hot or cold, but either way has a lot of sugar as tea should have! It is a deliciously refreshing drink on a  hot summer’s day.

Other teas that are popular are annaseed, chamomile and cinnamon. In more recent times, Early Grey and Green tea have been increasing in popularity and availability. Egyptian women love any tea that is said to “melt away” the fat, and have various teas they will encourage you to drink to lose weight: ginger and cinnamon is a good one they say!

AND NEVER DRINK ALONE!

Tea is never drunk on the go, or take-away: you will always sit somewhere, slow yourself down, settle in, feel the noise and hustle-bustle of the country slowly fade away….. until the waiter brings you your steaming glass of refreshment. You usually have to sit and wait for the glass to cool down a bit, so this gives you time to chat and interact with those around you…. you should never drink alone. The saying goes that if you drink alone, you will die alone. It is a social event, an occasion, to be repeated often in a day.

When the glass has cooled a little, using 2 fingers and your thumb, carefully placed near the rim of the cup (coolest part of the cup) take that first sip…

…savor the moment

…close your eyes and swallow…

…time slows down.

WELCOME IN EGYPT!

… where the national staple food is a huge sour pancake-ish thing …

INTRODUCTION:

One of the most interesting cultural experiences in a new county is THE FOOD! And in Ethiopia the local cuisine is surprisingly different and unique tasting. The staple food of the Ethiopian people has been called:

• a pancake (the size of a tyre!)
• a sour crepe bandage
• a pale chamois cloth
• a hand towel
• a serviette
• spongy-sourdough-flatbread

 But however unusual the look, and indeed the taste, you have to learn about it and then give it a try!

TEFF GRAIN:

Injeera (as this staple dish is called) is made from a grain unique to Ethiopia and is called TEFF, an ancient grass! It is apparently the smallest grain in the world (teeny tiny) but packs a powerful punch in terms of its nutritional value. Although only grown in Ethiopia, news of TEFF and injeera is spreading to the west due to the fact that it is gluten-free! 

INJEERA:

The “bread” is made by fermenting the grain for a short period (around 3 days). It is then made into a pourable paste and then cooked over coals on a large and very hot flat iron pan, usually greased by using cabbage seeds! A small amount is poured quickly, in a circular motion on the large, round, hot iron pan. This is then quickly covered with a clay lid until steam is seen to be coming out of the sides. Then you flip this large round hot, steaming, fermented pancake over. It is spongy/bubbly/holey on the one side and then flat and smooth on the other. It is best eaten fresh, although it can be eaten up to 3 days later if stored carefully. Injeera can be baked at home or bought fresh daily from local stores.

AND THE SAUCES:

Once the injeera is ready, one of these is usually layed open on an equally large round platter, holey-side up! On top of this “table-cloth” of injeera is then poured the various small bowls of sauces (wat) that have been selected. Most of these “wat” sauces will be spicy: Ethiopians love the spicy foods! They can be mild (made from lentils, or vegetables) or with meat (lamb or beef). One of our favorites was Shiro (made from chick peas, buttery with a hint of spice).

AND THE UNTENSILS:

The injeera bread becomes the eating utensil as well. In addition to the round table-cloth injeera, you will be given other portions of injeera to use as well. With either, you will tear off a small bite-size portion, throw it bubbly-side down onto the food you want, wrap it around the food in one swoop directly into your mouth! It takes a bit of practice but just watch a local person for a few mouthfuls and you should be ready to try yourself. 

AN INTERESTING CUSTOM:

We discovered an interesting sign of friendship: if an Ethiopian makes a little swoop with injeera onto some sauce and then leans across to you placing the food near your lips, open up and eat it! It is a sign of hospitality, friendship and respect. If you are brave enough, you can attempt to reciprocate! 

So don’t be scared of the food: it looks weird, but roll up your sleeves, tear away at the injeera, scoop up the sauce, pop into your mouth and savor the surprising rich and spicy taste of Ethiopia’s food: I guarantee you will order more!

(And in case the injure does not grab your taste, there is usually rice available and some yummy fresh bread… but at least try once!!)

… and a happy ENKUTATASH to you too! …

INTRODUCTION:

Life in Ethiopia revolves around its own ancient calendar. It is the “sidereal” calendar, similar to the Coptic Egyptian calendar, but not quite! Sidereal time is a time-keeping system that astronomers use, based on the earth’s rate of rotation measured relative to the fixed stars.

MONTHS:

The names of the months are in Ge’ez, the orthodox language of the Ethiopian Church. There are 13 months in the Ethiopian calendar, 12 months have 30 days each, and the 13th month will have 5 days in a normal year, and 6 days every 4th year (leap year). 

YEAR END:

The year ended this year (2014) on the 10th September, but will differ every year, depending on the leap years. The first day of the Ethiopian year this year (2014 our time) was  “our” September 11th. However it is important to note that there is a 7 year 8 month gap between the Ethiopian calendar and the Gregorian calendar. So our 2014 for example is their 2007! 

NEW YEAR:

There is a wonderful celebration, combining a national and a liturgical holiday all in one: the end of the year symbolizes the end of the rains, a new year and a new harvest. This celebration takes place in the Meskel Square, in the middle of town. It is an annual religious holiday and the Ethiopian Orthodox church commemorates the discovery of the “true cross” by St Helena. The belief is that she had a dream about the location of the true cross of Christ was, and she made a fire of wood and frankincense and the smoke rose and then returned to earth exactly where the cross lay.  So this 1600 year old tradition is still celebrated today.

FLOWERS AND BONFIRES:

The Meskel flower, after which the festival is named, is a bright, yellow wildflower, that grows prolifically in the highland countryside, after the monsoon rains. They are like carpets of vibrant cheerfulness, mile and after mile after mile of them! For the celebration, flowers are picked and bonfire sticks and twigs are gathered. At the main Meskel square in town, a huge bonfire is made, decorated with the yellow flowers and in many homes, a similar yet smaller version is made for the family, to be lit once people return home after the ceremony in the main square. On the day of this celebration, it appears that every person walking the roads back to their homes is carrying one armful of these happy flowers and the other filled with firewood! Everyone seems animated and excited, looking forward to the ceremony.

WHICH WAY WILL IT FALL?

From mid-day, crowds mostly dressed in the white national dress, start to enter the square, vying for the best places for the best view of the choirs and the fire. As the day draws to a close, an elaborate ceremony is held in the square, with many and various choirs singing and swaying as they parade close to the waiting bonfire (Demera). As it comes closer to the setting of the sun, the square is packed (literally shoulder to shoulder) with people and the excitement and tension is palpable. With the final procession complete the crowds happily light their hand-held locally designed candles (which are brilliant and don’t drip!): watching the candles light up around the square is a truly spiritual experience. And then finally the huge bonfire is lit, amidst great cheering and whistling from the immense crowd. Within the bonfire is a cross and which way it falls is said to predict the year ahead. Luckily this year, it fell the “right” way, and people left happily and content, believing they could look forward to a good and fruitful year, with good harvests and good rain. 

BACK HOME AGAIN:

Many families then return to their own homes and light their “mini” versions of the huge Demera, and have an evening of singing and celebration: another year has begun.

Introducing ETHIOPIA... Coffee: an occasion and never ever instant!!

THE BACKGROUND:
Coffee, that glorious enriching beverage, had its origins in Ethiopia, through a
young goat herder! Now, many years later, Ethiopia is a country rich in coffee
growth, production, export and of course drinking. Of the apparently 4 million bags
of coffee that are produced in Ethiopia annually, 40% of it remains in the country
to be drunk usually in a delightful coffee ceremony.

THE CEREMONY:
There is a 3 times a day ritual that happens in every home, every day. It is
uniquely Ethiopian, a unique aspect of daily life, and a slow, elaborate social
gathering. It is the coffee ceremony! 
It takes at least half an hour, and even up to 2 hours I am told, and begins with
the raw, green coffee beans and ends with the drinking of the 3rd cup of "blessed"
coffee, all of this in an aromatic, rich atmosphere.

THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS:
1. a wife/mother/female figure, usually attired in traditional dress: white,
cotton, flowing dress with a border of bright colour.
2. cut grass, which is laid on the floor in front of the coffee station, and gives a
lovely aroma, which increases as people walk over and across it
3. enough raw coffee beans for the number of people present 
4. charcoal fire (which is usually placed within a little "cupboard", behind which
the woman presides and orchestrates this lovely ritual)
5. the classic clay round bottomed coffee pot, with a long graceful neck and a small
handle
6.  tiny little cups and saucers (one for each person)
7.  sugar (usually 1 or 2 teaspoons in each cup)
8. a little brazier type frying pan (to roast the beans over the fire)
9.  an incense holder and incense (usually frankincense)
10. a wooden pestle and mortar with which to pound the beans
11. popcorn: this is the usual "snack" that will be eaten with the coffee, usually
with a little sugar sprinkled on it.
NOTE: Ethiopian coffee is traditionally drunk black, so milk is not usually
available, and people will looked shocked if you ask for it!!

LET THE CEREMONY BEGIN:
With great style and almost balletic fluidity, the gracefully dressed woman will sit
behind her coffee station, on a small stool, with the charcoal ready to go, and
begin the process by roasting the green beans. When they are done, she will bring
the fragrant steaming brazier to each person, allowing each to have a first smell of
the glorious brew which is to follow. Each person will smell, even use a hand to
direct the aroma towards the nose, and make happy comments about how good it is!
Next is the boiling of the water. While this is happening, she will pound the coffee
beans into grounds. When the water is ready, she will add alarmingly many heaped
teaspoons of the coffee into the thin necked coffee pot. This is then returned to
the coals to boil up twice again.
In the meantime she will get the popcorn ready, and make sure that the incense is
burning nicely on its little stand, pouring out yet more fragrance into the room.
and keeping bugs at bay!

Once the coffee is ready, she might put a "strainer" in the outlet to prevent bits
of the coffee beans being poured in the cups.
She will then put the sugar in the teeny cups, and begin pouring: the cups are all
lined up, clean and waiting. She will hold the coffee pot fairly high, and pour in
one continuous stream. This will cause a small amount of spillage in your saucer:
this is normal and expected, so don't let it worry you!
You will have your cup given to you, so sit back, and enjoy cup number one of the
rich, thick, hot brew.

This will then be repeated, slightly weaker, with cup number 2, and again, slightly
weaker yet with cup number 3. If you can make it to number 3, you will be blessed,
as this is the cup of blessing!

SIT AND ENJOY:
This is not to be rushed, but enjoy the fragrant ritual, and slowly sip the brews
and enjoy the popcorn. For Ethiopians, this usually happens 3 times a day, and is a
time when people gather and chat about life in all its forms. It is a gesture of
respect and friendship and to be invited into someone's home is indeed an honour.

Once you have experienced this, our usual quick, instant, on the go coffee just does
not make the grade!

...a time when lanterns shine on every corner...

RAMADAN:
This is the month of fasting that is one of the 5 pillars of the Muslim faith. During this time a unique symbol and an almost magical tradition lights up every street. This is the wonderful, shining 800 year tradition, something which makes even the bleakest street become beautiful:

THE FANOOS:
This is the name given to the Ramadan lamps, that are seen to dangle from balconies, hang above entrances to buildings, shine out from shop windows, and be on sale on every street corner.

THE HISTORY:
There are several stories (and versions of stories) about how it all began:
* One is that on the 24th July 968 AD the Caliph entered Cairo at night, with the people of the city carrying torches and candles to welcome him. To shield the flame from the wind, they wrapped them in palms and leather.
* Another story is that the Caliph wanted to light the streets and ordered mosques to hang  fanoos lamps outside.
* Yet another story is that young boys had to walk in front of women (who were not supposed to be out alone on the streets) carrying a copper Fanoos to warn men to move out of the way.
* Another opinion is that the origins of the Fanoos were from Christmas lights, and as the Coptic believers in Egypt became Muslims, they changed from christmas lights to candles in simple tin containers to be used during the holy month of Ramadan.

Whichever story is true, or even if all of them, the fact remains that Ramadan is now integrally connected to the light and brightness of the fanoos: every home desires one, every child wants one, schools even make them to take home, and there are types for every pocket. Every child wants to swing their Fanoos after the Iftar meal, singing traditional songs and visiting neighbors and relatives.

TYPES OF FANOOS:
Initially the lamps were made of tin and had candles within, now many have fancy “airing grid” designs and even colored glass.
* simple (usually made in china, and as usually key chains!)
* complex (some can be found made of copper, with intricate designs)
* musical (some have pre-recorded Ramadan songs emitting from them)
* recycled tin
* made from fabric (special Ramadan designs)
* battery operated, or electric (light bulbs)
* with candles
Although many are now cheaply mass produced in China (with a very short shelf life) you can still find the traditional fanoos maker, in some small alcove or shop, where he will make them from tin, crafting them in the traditional shape.

But whichever type, Fanawees (plural word of Fanoos) are now a symbolic decoration welcoming the month of Ramadan, and they combat the darkness with grace and beauty, delighting the hearts of all who see them.

... gold and more gold ...

When thinking about engagements, many of us imagine:
     * a romantic setting
           * a man on one knee
                * a sparkly ring
 ….. and plenty of celebrations afterwards

In Egypt things are done a little differently.

Typically an engagement takes place in this way:

Usually the girl’s family learns of a suitable man through family or friend connections. After the girl’s family have verified the respectability of the man's family, the two parties can sit down together for an initial meeting, usually over fizzy drinks and cake. This initial meeting determines whether the male is a suitable partner and whether the two individuals would be compatible for a life-time together. These meetings can be difficult because firstly the other family must be respectable and must be of a similar social standing and educational background. Once these checks have been made, particularly by the girl’s family, they will then decide whether the male has suitable financial stability. The male must have a job and enough money to purchase a house (though many sons will remain in their family home, and bring their new wife home) and enough money to furnish the property.

Once the girl has agreed to the prospective fiance, the man must then have funds to purchase engagement jewelery, which is the pride and joy for the bride to be. This “gold” becomes the personal property of the bride, and is a symbol of the generous nature of the intended husband. At the very least the male should buy a single plain yellow gold band as a public symbol of the intended marriage. The family of the bride should attend an appointment at the jeweler, with the groom, and choose the set of gold and help negotiate a price of the jewellery set. The bride-to-be then wears the gold ring on her right hand and the groom-to-be wears a silver ring also on his right. On some occasions the man's family will buy a separate more ornate ring to show their acceptance towards the bride-to-be and as a welcoming gift to her.

Once this has taken place a party follows soon after: to celebrate the upcoming nuptials and to announce to the community the arrangement for the couple. This party will of course include food, dancing and plenty of celebrations! The bride-to-be will be expected to wear a beautiful dress she has chosen, usually bright and sparkly  and the groom to be will be suited and booted too!

After these formalities have taken place the couple are now allowed to date each other and go out in public alone. This crucial stage then allows the couple to decide whether they want to go ahead with the wedding itself. Some conservative families will be more strict during this stage and perhaps insist on a chaperone to accompany the engaged couple until they are united on the wedding day.
Purity is very important to Egyptian people so families will do everything to preserve the reputation and honor of the family.

After the groom-to-be has arranged the house and paid for all the furnishings, the happy couple can begin to plan their wedding. This could take place in a matter of weeks after engagement or after many months or indeed several years.

I have some personal knowledge of this... I am engaged to an Egyptian who lives outside of his homeland. However, during my recent trip to Egypt I made the all important visit to my future in laws in order for them to make the decision as to whether I could marry their son…. or not! Once they had decided that I was indeed suitable and respectable, they took me to the jewelers to buy me a gift as a sign of their acceptance towards me and to welcome me to the family. This ring was then presented to me and we had a lovely party, with cake, speeches, dancing and laughter late into the night.
My personal experience was different to most as I was making this visit alone but the picture of the ring can give you some understanding of what Egyptian girls get given as part of the engagement process.

Engagements are a very important part of the girl’s life and are a very special time for the families involved.

Mabrook! (Congratulations)

... the day the whole nation goes outside ...

In this part of the world, April brings in the feel of Spring. With it comes an ancient and interesting celebration here in Egypt called:
Shem el Nessim.

The best translations of the words are possibly
     * Smelling the breeze
          * sniffing the air
               * inhaling the smell                                                                                       
which is a wonderful way of describing the first feel and aroma of the beginning of Spring, of life. However, in Egypt, the smell that tends to prevail on this day is actually one of very stinky, smelly fish and onions!

WHEN IS THIS DAY?
This very distinctly Egyptian day takes place on the Monday after the Coptic Christians celebrate Easter Sunday. The origins of the Shem el Nessim are neither Islamic (which is why certain conservative Muslims will not celebrate this day) nor are they Christian. They seem to originate from Pharaonic times. In those times, there was a celebration as winter turned into spring: it was a time to make an offering to the gods, to ensure fertility and welfare for the agricultural year ahead: the renewal of life. It was said that the offerings made to the gods in those days are the same items that are eaten in the Shem el Nessim picnics! You could say the Pharaonic celebration has morphed into a national picnic day!

WHAT DO PEOPLE DO?
It is a day when everyone goes outside: as it is there that you can smell the spring air! People will head to any open or green space: the parks, gardens, beaches and picnic areas will be jam-packed with families, ready for their picnics. Some will head to the beach or the farm areas for a more “rural” feel. Families gather, friends gather.. so they can all breathe the air and enjoy the traditional meal.

WHY SO SMELLY?
This day is very famous because of what is eaten on this day. One of the key foods is a fish called: Feseekh. It has some others names: rotten fish, smelly fish, stinky fish, putrid fish! It is a cuisine that the people either adore or abhor! So what is this offensive fish? The raw ingredient is grey mullet (a readily available and popular fish here.) It then goes through a time-honored many-stepped process of fermentation (waiting for the fish to bloat in the sun), salting and sitting, which lasts either 1 week - 10 days depending on how hot the weather is! It is a traditional process, often handed down from generation to generation. There are a few shops that are particularly famous for this kind of fish (there is one we know of in Fowa) but people in each town are warned to take care where you purchase your feseech from!
If you are interested in the process, look at this excellent page:

http://egyptian-food-recipes.com/dried-salted-fish-feseekh/

The very distinctive “pungent aroma” will begin to permeate the air when it is ready (or so I am told). The unveiling of the fish has seen many people running out of the house, or neighbors thinking there is a dead rat in the house! But most of my friends get terribly enthusiastic in anticipation of eating their beloved faseekh!
For those who cannot eat faseekh (and possibly may be considered wiser when you know that the hospitals increase the staff for the following day as many cases of poisoning from the fish will be rushed in…..) the other options are to eat:
ringa (smoked herrings) or tuna….. some sort of salty fish will be considered a must!
Along with this is eaten:
spring onions (thought to ward off evil and sickness)
lettuce (a sign of hopefulness)
lots of lemon (or vinegar)
and as always, bread
There is no traditional dessert or sweets, as on top of the salty fermented fish, onions and lemons I am told there can be no follow on food at all! Only the inevitable cup of black tea!

AND EGGS?
The breakfast on this day usually involves eating eggs. If there are children in the family, often there is a coloring/painting/dyeing of eggs: it is a fun time for children. These days some simply buy chocolate eggs, which of course the children love! But more traditional is the boiling of ordinary eggs, and then creating a lovely bright, spring pattern on the eggs.

SO WHAT DID I THINK?
Well….. to be honest, I stay very far away from Feseekh! But give me ringa any day! What I do enjoy about this day is seeing families celebrating and having fun outside, breathing in the Spring air and saying goodbye to winter. This is a good thing….

... rapping for respect towards women ...

Introducing…. Mayam Mahmoud! She is a young Egyptian woman, who is playing her part
in trying to make her country stand up, listen and do something about the endemic harassment that takes place daily in this country. She first appeared in “Arabs got talent” and very quickly was award the “Index Arts Award” for the voice of free expression. The dress she was wearing for the occasion was one with examples of much graffiti that has appeared in Egypt, about women’s rights. She raps strongly about the rights of women and above all how freedom is our duty before it becomes her right!

http://www.indexoncensorship.org/2014/03/the-index-arts-award-winner-mayam-mahmoud/

SO WHAT IS HARRASMENT?
In Egypt, it is said that 98% of all foreigners who visit, and 83% of all Egyptian women have been harassed in some way in their lives:

* whistles
     * lewd words
          * leering looks and jeers
               * being grabbed
                    * being stalked
                         * being constantly telephoned
                              *…… and worse!

Mayam is a public figure of the new generation of women who will no longer “just live with” what is now so prevalent in this country. She talks about the things that others do not have the courage to talk about. She brings about a sense of hope for so many young girls, enthusiastic female students and young women who daily have to live with a barrage of filth from boys and mostly younger men as they walk the streets to school and university and take public transport back home.

IS THIS ACCEPTABLE?
One of the problems is that some men have come to accept it as their “right”. As I was recently told by a young woman who had a truly horrid experience in Cairo, when confronted by other men as they tried to protect her, the harass-ers claimed:
“We are Egyptian, this is what we do!”

Somehow blame is always put on what the women are (or not) wearing, but most research indicates that clothing has very little to do with the real reason! The lack of respect and blatant disregard of women as anything but a “thing to be grabbed” is becoming increasingly evident.

SO WHAT CAN BE DONE?
It must be said that usually for every male (or group of males) who is taunting a woman or girl, one or more who will be willing to come to help assistance can be found. Many men will try and help, and heap an angry tirade on the perpetrators, possibly even a punch or 2!

However many feel that a lot more can and needs to be done within the legal and justice systems, as well as education in schools and reinforcement in the homes: all women should be treated with respect, and if not, then the males responsible should be dealt with strongly and fairly.

AND WHAT ABOUT VISITORS:
We would like to encourage all those foreigner visitors to dress modestly, not aiding the prevailing stereotype that all foreigners are “loose”! Also, single women should not travel around alone, especially if this is a first visit to the country. If you are going out at night, go in a group, and make sure you have a trusted person who can speak the local language with you.

Speak out against it where you can, encourage the women and girls around you not to be ashamed and to stand strong and demand change in the nation. But also encourage the men and boys you meet to respect women and girls, and be their protectors, not their harassers!

… people come from everywhere…

To experience Egypt fully, you have to go to a local SOUQ (market): this is where the soul of the country lives! It is an overwhelming onslaught to all of your senses!

WHAT IS A SOUQ?
It is a local market, where sellers come from near and far to sell their products. Some sellers have a permanent shop from which to sell, but others simply “set up shop” when they arrive, find a suitable spot and begin selling. Goods are brought to the market via:
* donkey
     * wheelbarrow
          * train
               * taxi
                    * pull along trolleys
                         * and on heads!

WHEN ARE THESE SOUQs OPEN?
Most markets are open almost daily and almost 24 hours! They are usually along streets and alley ways. In some villages though, there is a weekly market, where the farmers gather their produce at the end of the week and come and sell on the streets. So what is usually a normal road into the heart of the village becomes an area teeming with noise, colors, and smells, and frenetic activity and shouting as the farmers (and wives) try to sell off their produce: a labyrinth of enthusiasm and freshness! It is best to go earlier in the day (around 9am) once the stalls are set up, the heat is still bearable, and the sellers are at their most enthusiastic!

WHAT DO THEY SELL?
These local markets tend to sell a lot of produce: fruit, veg, leafy greens, but all arranged in beautiful, artistic displays, showing how Egyptians love patterns and symmetry.
There is also a lot of fish (which is often so fresh it is still flapping on the tables, and sometimes they jump right off!)
Meat is always popular, though possibly not how you are used to seeing it, nor the types of meat you are used to seeing. The meat will be hung out in the street, chunks cut off as needed. The “innards and organs” are very popular here, so watch where you walk, or your head may hit a large lung!
Poultry and rabbits are a much loved source of protein. Many guests find it terribly difficult to accept that these fluffy creatures, hopping around will be someone’s dinner! But rabbit stew is a favorite of many Egyptians, and often offered in restaurants. Selection of chickens (or ducks, turkeys and even the odd ostrich) is done while they are alive. Then in an alarmingly short time, it will be handed over to you, cleaned and ready to cook.
Sundry clothing items: there will always be shops selling pajamas, slip slops, slippers, scarves and veils.
General shops: selling every conceivable piece of plastic and glass for the home: glasses, trays, salt and pepper pots, jugs… all made in China!
Spices and lentils: always available are the earthy pungent spices, in very large bags. Lentils, rice and macaroni are ever-present: the nation loves them!
Bread: every souk will have a gloriously smelling bakery, selling fresh bread and a huge variety of biscuits, which just have to be eaten while drinking a cup of black tea, from a glass!
Tea: you will always find a man carrying a tray with glasses of tea or coffee, ready for the sellers or the buyers to reach out for, purchase and drink. If you feel the need, someone will always find something for you to sit on, and you can sip you tea, munch on a biscuit and watch the world pass by!

SOCIAL… as well as functional!
As well as the business of buying and selling, the Souq is the heart of the community. News is shared and spread, laughter and tears, encouragement and sadness are given and received. Many sellers have been selling in that same spot for generations, so there is often a sense of camaraderie, family, community and caring: and of course the usual angry outbursts between people, heated arguing… then followed by hugging and cheek kissing, and finally a shared cup of tea!

WELCOME IN EGYPT…!

… let the water flow…

Egypt lies along the Nile River, and from ancient times, the challenge of getting the water from the Nile to the farming land has been ever-present. Now with electricity, generators and pumps, the whole speed, sound and manner of moving water has changed. But if you look very hard, you can find the slow, steady, methodical and even mesmerizing manner of moving water….

THE ANNUAL FLOODING:
This flooding was a blessing but also a challenge! Ancient life was based on the rhythms of the annual flooding: it was predictable and timely. It is said that June 17th was the night of the drop of the “Celestial Tear”, which dropped from the heavens and started the annual floods. Usually these floods reached Southern Egyptian borders in July, reached Aswan in mid-August, lasting 4 - 6 weeks. The receding of the waters was during October/November. The Nilometer (a vertical column, like an ancient water-ruler) was used to predict and measure the extent of the flooding, and taxes on agriculture were set by the predicted harvests based on the amount of water.
The challenge was how to expand the cultivation area by moving water from the Nile during the dry summer. The Egyptians invented and used many simple machines to aid agriculture.

THE LEGENDARY SHADUF:
I think almost all of us studied the “Ancient Egyptians” in our school years, drawing pyramids, making copies of the mummies and painstakingly re-creating an obelisk. But for me, the thing that kept me amazed was the “shaduf”: the irrigation tool of old. It is basically a bucket and lever lifting machine. There is an upright frame, a long tapering pole, a bucket/basket/skin bag on one end, and a counterweight on the other. With an almost effortless pull by the operator, the pole can be swung and lifted, scooping and carrying water from the pond/river to an irrigation tunnel, which leads the water to the fields. It is said that a shaduf could transport up to 2 500 litres a day.

WATER WHEELS:
This was normally a wheel with buckets or clay pots along the circumference. Buckets were emptied into a trough/aqueduct. It was operated by the flow of the river, and was the first non-human operated lifting device. The current of the stream turns the wheel, and lowers the pots into the stream and fills them up. As the wheel continues to turn, the pots are upturned and emptied into the canals or fields. The cycle then continues…
In the area called The Fayoum, (100kms outside Cairo) there are about 200 such waterwheels. Hamza El Din, a singer, composed a song on the “Oud” called “Water wheel”, telling of the memories and soothing sounds created by the wheels he remembered as a child.

SAKIA:
The Persian water wheel: this was oxen-powered and had pots on a rope with 2 pulleys. This kind of water wheel was usually used to raise water out of a well, usually with a child or 2 guiding and encouraging the animals to keep walking.

THE ARCHIMEDES SCREW:
This was apparently designed by the legendary Greek Scholar, Archimedes, on a visit to Egypt. Its purpose was to transfer water from a low-lying body of water to irrigation ditches higher up. It consisted of a helix spiral inside a cylinder, that is open at both ends. The lower end was placed in water, at a slant. It was then manually operated, by turning the handle. As the helix was rotated, water would slide upwards, caught in the spirals, until pouring out at the top of the tube.

TODAY:
All over the Delta region you can hear the throbbing sound of pumps, and daily watch thousands of litres of water being transferred to fields further away from the canals or the rivers. Some of the ancient examples can be found in some museums and hotels….but if you wander into some distant villages you might still see examples from old, and be amazed at their simplicity yet effectiveness.

...the wonderful ironing men of Egypt...

Each of us has a household chore that we absolutely dread. I know that even the idea of ironing anything other than a handkerchief or a small pillow case send chills down my spine. I tend to iron in more creases than get rid of them!

I know many people who find ironing relaxing and fulfilling…. but for people like me, one of the things you will want to do fairly soon after arriving in Egypt is to find the closest:

* Makwagi
    * dhobi
        * ironing man
            * laundry


WHAT IS A MAKWAGI?
The word “makwa” means an iron. A “makwagi” is a person who irons, and here in Egypt, almost on every street you will find an ironing man.

A TRADITIONAL OCCUPATION:
Ironing here is almost an art-form, and indeed it is a skill and an occupation that is sometimes passed on down the generations, from father to son. The little “shops” that you will find in every neighborhood are sometimes so small that you will walk past them without even noticing! The rooms are usually very small, very basic but continuously busy, all year round.

Egyptians take a great pride in their clothes, and to appear in public in un-ironed clothes is frowned upon. So each Makwagi will usually have a set of dedicated customers, usually within a close distance of his shop. However, some people will not change the Makwagi that their parents used, or they used before changing suburbs, and will insist that their best clothes still go to the original man!

A DAILY CHORE:
You can drop you washed clothes at the Makwagi yourself, or have his “assistant’ (runner/delivery person) collect the clothes for you. If it is urgent, you can sit and wait until it is finished. People can spend many pleasant hours waiting for their ironing to be finished, chatting about the neighbourhood, the country and indeed the problems of the world. It is a good place to watch people pass by and share a cup of tea together!
Once the ironing is done, it is either folded carefully or hung on a hanger and then delivered to your home, or you pick it up on the way home.

THE IRONING PROCESS:
Depending on the age of the Makwagi, you will find irons both ancient and modern:
* many still have the old heavy irons that are heated on coals
* some even have electric irons
… but I have never seen a steam iron!
And this is where some of you may balk at the process! To “spritz” water onto the dry garments, many of the older Makwagi’s do not use a neat little spray bottle! They will take a sip of water from a nearby cup and spray it out of their mouth onto the garment and then happily iron away! This is how it has been taught from generation to generation, and these men have perfected the “spray and iron” method!

THE COST:
You might be surprised at how “cheap” the cost is, compared to getting ironing done in your country! Depending on the suburb and the fame of the Makwagi, (and of course how good your arabic is) a local person will pay:
Le1-2 per shirt (depending how complicated it is!!)

GIVE IT A TRY!!
So while you are visiting here, don’t pay the exorbitant costs of the hotels, (many of whom will use the local Makwagi anyway)…. ask around and find out where the best local ironing man is, take your bundle of clothes to him, and then experience the meticulous attention to detail, the pride in their work, which goes on: day in, day out, 6 days a week, around 11 hours a day….. relieving you of an arduous chore and providing income to a Makwagi and his family!