… the Nile Explorers …

THE MIGHTY RIVERS:

From ancient times, rivers have been a source of interest, inspiration and guidance for many peoples. The 4 largest / longest rivers of the world:

Amazon, Ghanges, Yangtze and the Nile have drawn pilgrims and explorers from many and varied countries and times. Often they all had a common question:

Where do they begin?

THE SOURCE OF THE NILE:

This has probably been the most contentious of all questions, and as this is the longest river of the world, finding the source can be rather confusing and indeed misleading.

But what is defined as the “source” (headwaters) of a river? 

* upper tributaries

* the water from which a river rises

* beginnings

* place furthest in that river from its mouth/estuary

Trying to trace backwards up the longest river in the world, through what people referred to as the “dark continent”, has been quite a treacherous endeavor for many explorers….

WHO WERE THESE EXPLORERS?

+ A Greek Merchant (1st Century) This nameless person was apparently the first to speak of huge areas of water inland from the East coast of Africa. This news was passed on to:

• A Syrian Geographer who apparently recorded all this information
• Ptolemy (2nd Century) then attempted to put these 2 great inland seas in the interior of Africa on a map, which were said to be at the foot of the “mountains of the moon.”

Then there is a quiet gap in the history until:

+ A Moroccan Berber traveller Ibn Battuta (1300s) thought that the Niger was the source

• Portuguese missionary Paez arrives in Ethiopia (1600s) settles near Lake Tana: source of the Blue Nile
• A Scottish travel writer James Bruce (1790) traced the origins of the Blue Nile to the springs of Gish in Ethiopia

and then came THE VICTORIAN EXPLORERS: (1856 - 1876)

Burton, Speke, Grant, Baker and Florence, Stanley and of course Livingstone!

The quest to discover the source of the Nile (White Nile) became an obsession of the mid 19th century.

• 1856 Speke and Burton made their first voyage to find the “Great Lakes” in the centre of the continent. They began in Zanzibar and made their perilous way and found the first of these lakes: Tanganyika. 
• 1858 Disease, fights, blindness, deafness and many other troubles resulted in only Speke arriving at Lake Victoria, and being the first European to see it. He could not accurately record and map it, but was convince this was the source.

On returning to England, there was much dispute between Burton (who claimed the source was in Lake Tanganyika) and Speke (Lake Victoria). So the question rose: is Lake Victoria the primary feeder of the White Nile, or is there a river flowing out of the North side of Tanganyika? The Royal Geographical Society (RGS) wanted the answers.

There was much jealousy, flinging of accusations, anger and bitterness that lead to a huge feud and rift between Burton and Speke.

1860 - 65 Speke and Grant returned to Lake Victoria and found the Nile flowing out of it on the Northern side: and named it Ripon Falls (1862): the place where the Lake begins to move and become the White Nile. However, he did not follow the lake the entire way around.

Baker and Florence: they discovered Lake Albert and the Murchison Falls.

1864 Criticism and arguing continued until a debate to “settle the Nile” issue was to be held, between Speke and Burton, but Speke’s accidental death the previous day meant this did not happen.

1874-1877 Stanley was sent to finally solve the crisis and enable the RGS to fill in blanks on their maps. He took a boat around the entire shore of Lake Victoria and established that Lake Tanganyika was NOT connected to the Nile. He explored the headwaters of Lake Edward and declared that Speke was correct:

The White Nile flows from Lake Victoria via the Ripon and Murchison Falls, to Lake Albert and then on to Gondokoro……. although admitting that the lake has several feeders.

1934 Waldecker (German) traced the Kangera river back to the Hills of Burundi

2006 McGrigor (British) stated that the most distant source of the Nile was the start of the Kagera River, which he said was in the Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda.

2013 Levison Wood (British) walked the Nile from source to sea, and began his journey in the hills of Rwanda!

National Geographic has declared that the outlet of Lake Victoria is not the source of the Nile. The true source is the source of the largest River flowing INTO the lake, that being the Kagera River (Rwanda/Burundi: it has not finally been confirmed)

SO….

People have been debating and arguing over the true source/origins of this incredible river for centuries. 

We have the Blue Nile, (Lake Tana) filling from the skies, powerfully pouring down the mountains. This is the Nile that caused the flooding of Egypt: shorter (1450 miles) yet mighty.

We have the White Nile, rising in the Great Lakes of East Africa, (with the most distant source still undetermined: Rwanda or Burundi) (4 230 miles).

These 2 rivers join in Sudan (Khartoum) where it flows through a vast desert after Atbara, without being replenished for 1 200 miles by a single tributary.

THE MIGHTY NILE!!

... The glorious Gomesi: a dress made from bark ...

BARK-CLOTH:

Bark cloth has been made in Uganda for centuries. This is done by transforming the bark of the fig tree (Mutuba) into cloth. Using the Mutuba tree produces a wonderfully red-colored cloth.

PROCESS:

1. Bark is cut from the tree in strips
2. outer bark is then scraped off using a knife
3. the inner bark is then rolled and boiled in water to soften it
4. the bark is then placed on a log and beaten with ridged mallets of a variety of sized groves: first beating is with the heaviest mallet with the deepest grooves, ending with the lightest mallet with the finest grooves.
5. until it becomes soft and malleable: the bark is thinned and refined during this process
6. the bark is then laid out in the sun for 2 - 3 days and it is during this time that it develops it characteristic red color.
7. patterns were then “printed” onto the bark-cloth using a mixture of mud and water. Stamps of various shapes were designed and then dipped into the dye and pressed on the cloth.

USES:

• to divided the traditional houses into rooms: hanging up a large “curtain” of bark cloth.
• a funeral shroud or a blanket
• book-binding
• dresses: many years ago, women used to drape this bark-cloth around their bodies: no sleeves and no covering over the shoulders or arms: just large swathes of this cloth. It was tied around the waist with a long piece of string or bark-cloth. This was known as the SUUKA and was traditionally worn by the women of the Baganda kingdom.

The GOMESI:

The traditional dress began to evolve. Apparently around 1905, a tailor from India/Goa by the name of Gomes was asked to re-design a uniform for girl’s school. The girls had been draping large pieces of sheeting around themselves (Suuka style) but it kept slipping off during times of hard work! He decided to switch from the traditional bark cloth was replaced it with cotton fabric imported from abroad.

The new style dress was introduced as a uniform at Gayaza Girls’ school but it was thought appropriate to introduce sleeves (more modest). So a square neckline with 2 buttons on the side was added, with to the elbow sleeves. A long sash was included to keep the fabric in place, which can total up to about 6 meters of fabric, as it is draped to the floor! The final change was when it was  decided the puffy sleeves should be come to a pointed spike at the top and hey presto: we have the modern day gomesi and is worn by women all around Uganda.

WHEN:

The Gomesi is known as a dress that shows respect and honor. It is considered “presentable attire” when, for example, a young lady is going to meet her potential in-laws, or there is a wedding or special occasion (birthday, funeral, formal function, festival). Many “mature” women (ie: older) or in the rural areas, will wear it daily. But when the younger women want to impress, they will gladly put on their Gomesi: with brightly colored, shiny, matching sash, shoes, handbag and earrings. 

They make a striking outfit: so when you travel Uganda, keep your eyes open: the spiky shoulder/sleeves, the meters of fabric and the long sash make them easy to spot!

... Uganda : the pearl of Africa’s crown ...

Uganda… or the “Pearl of African’s crown” (as the last line of the National Anthem declares) is known for its “gorillas in the mist”.  It is a surprising place to visit and more and more young volunteers, families with teenagers, primate lovers and adrenaline-adventure seekers and are making their way to this country.

SOME THINGS YOU MIGHT NOT KNOW ABOUT UGANDA:

• 25% of the land is water! Many lakes and rivers….. 
• some of the sources of the Nile are found here:  Albert Nile (from Lake Albert) and the Victoria Nile (Lake Victoria) which join with several other rivers to become the White Nile in the north of Uganda
• Long horned cattle
• green, fertile and tropical
• many forested national parks: the most interesting called the “Bwindi Impenetrable Park”
• animals and birds
• level of spoken English and education is high, compared to the rest of Africa
• there are kingdoms and kings as well as a president (who has been in office for more than 30 years)

FOOD:

Bananas! Cook the bananas, fry the bananas, slice them into chips, cook meat stews in a banana leaf… and then of course just eat the sweet bananas as normal fruit! Cooking bananas (Makote) is the staple dish for 60% of all Ugandans. You will often see trucks, motorbikes, donkey carts, heads loaded down with great bunches of these long green bananas. I am told one large bunch will last a family of 4 for about a week! Many foreigners have to get their minds out of the thinking that banana is a fruit/desert and not a mean meal. So re-calibrate your brain and try to eat at least one version of each of the different ways in which makote is cooked. It can be surprisingly tasty: just don't think of it as a banana!!!

A second staple food is posho. Posho looks like a very stiff mashed potato, but is made from Maize meal. Most local people will ask for a plate of Makote and Posh with some beans or some “soup” (either chicken or goat) if they can afford it. 

There is not a huge variety of food, and it is cooked very simply, and not very spicy (for those who like hot food) but once you have developed a taste for it, you miss it after a couple of days.

The Rolex is not a cheap watch! It is a fun fast-food found on many streets. It consists of an omelette (with or without chopped up tomatoes and onions) put on a flat chapati (similar to a fried Nan) and then rolled up (hence the name) and wrapped in a piece of paper. This makes for a filling yet simple (and cheap) breakfast or lunch or dinner!

TRANSPORT:

You will find a variety of the usual transport types available in East Africa: local taxis (mini bus) larger local buses, a variety of private cars, bicycles and carts. However the cheapest and indeed the deadliest is the Boda-boda. These are the motorcycle taxis. They were apparently given that name as goods used to be smuggled from “border-to-border” on the back roads! Today however, you will find a whole group of them waiting for customers at any important crossroad or intersection. You negotiate with the driver, and then simply climb on to the back of the motorbike and he will (hopefully) get you safely and quickly to your destination.

CATTLE:

One of the things that surprises many visitors is the long-horned (huge in some cases) cattle. These are called Ankole cattle. They come in a variety of colors, the males with a “lump” at the shoulder area, but cows and bulls both have the unbelievably long horns. Watching a large herd regally walk passed you bearing the burden of these immense horns is something to experience.

So…. why not consider traveling to this pearl? Meet the people, eat the food, see the wildlife, ride the rapids, watch the sunsets and hear the cry of the African fish eagle?

... Nubian Life & Culture (Part 2) ...

Nubians have ...

… a love of the river

Nubian life historically has been centred around the Nile River. They believe it to hold the power of life and death. Nubians love to be near the Nile, to see it, to hear it, to smell it, and to sail on it! Their traditional life was based on agriculture, (mainly palm trees) fishing and transporting goods up and down the Nile. 

… a love of the land

Nubian people have a deep and ingrained love of the land: be it the lovely light sand of the desert or the rich Nile soil for agriculture. They love to grow things: fruit trees such as mango trees, flowers, rice and of course palm trees. Agriculture was, and in many cases still is, the basis of the Nubian economy. However, much land and indeed thousands of trees were drowned with the flooding caused by the building of the dams. In the past the harvesting of the palm trees was a key day in the lives of the Nubians. Years ago, dates were equated with gold: the more trees, the more dates, the more gold! Wealth was directly related to how many trees you had. There were celebrations, music and joy when the dates were harvested. Nothing was ever wasted with from the palm tree: dates were eaten and sold fresh, dried and stored for the lean months. The leaves and bark from the trees were used cleverly by the women for a number of handcrafted items, which were used for daily work or as ornaments and decorations.

… a love of music

The music has mostly a gentle and soothing sound: it is inspired by the Nubian landscape: the Nile River and the sands of the desert. The tradition sound, with its gentle yet persistent rhythm, has been blended with more modern styles to become uniquely Nubian. The modern songs tend to express feelings of displacement through music. Although many villages may have been drowned, Nubian culture will not be erased as it lives on in the music. 

One particularly famous singer, Hamza El Din, has a song called: “The Water Wheel” which reflect his memory, as a child, collecting water and listening and being mesmerized by the sound and life of the water.

If you visit Aswan, you are sure to find a group of men in white Galabeyas, with white cloth headdresses, usually smoking profusely, with a large, circular hand held drum or three. Sit with them.  You will hear the sweet gentle sounds of Nubian music: although the words may be of hurt, displacment, lost land and love… the sound is soothing and restful.

… and lovely handcraft

In the past, the Nubian women were famous for their cleverly made and brightly colored and varied handcrafts. Most of which would be made from parts of the palm tree. They would make baskets, plates, mats, fans, rope and decorations from the trees. These would be used for the floor, to hang on the walls and as celebratory gifts. 

They would also make many pottery vessels out of clay from the Nile River: water jars, containers for food, to be used in the traditional ovens.

Bead work was always in demand: lovely necklaces, anklets and rings adorned the beautiful women of Nubia.

Nowadays the need and demand for these are not as high, and are mostly made for commercial use: to sell to tourists. Also the prolific number of date palms is not like it was in the past, before the dams.

Most Nubian women will go to the local Souqs (markets) and buy what they need from there. 

But the creativity and love of beautiful things is not lost to the Nubian people. 

All you have to do is come and visit; see their homes, listen to their music, watch them making henna designs…. and you will feel the love, the pain, the creativity, the rich culture and the beauty of these wonderful people.

... Nubian Life & Culture (Part 1) ...

What’s unique about Nubians?

-  A very brief History

The Nubian people are a culture that is thought to have survived 17 000 years of history, and possibly have one of the earliest civilizations. 

Traditionally these Nubian people lived in what is now Southern Egypt and Northern Sudan: the Lower Nubia (being near the 1st and 2nd cataract) and upper Nubia (near the 2 - 6th cataracts). This in total covered 120 000 square kilometers of land. It was a strategic area and was the passageway for much trade between Africa and the Mediterranean Sea. 

In modern history, due to the building of the dams (Aswan Dam in 1902 and High Dam in the 1960s) and the resultant rising water, particularly Lake Nasser, hundreds of villages were flooded, and over a hundred thousand Nubians had to be re-settled, from Sudan and Egypt. Much of their land is now beneath the waters. This displacement has led to quite severe cultural disintegration with many men moving to northern Egypt to the cities to seek employment.  

Nonetheless, their long and proud history can still be seen and found today.

-  Name and character

The word Nubia is thought to have come from the word “Nub”, which means gold, as in the past it was a land rich in gold. It was known as “Kush”, the land of the Bow. In the days of old, Nubian men were known (and feared) due to their skill and precision with bows and arrows as well as their horsemanship.

Nubians are usually tall, slim and dark, more “African” looking than many of their Arab neighbours. They are known, stereotypically, as being gentle, quiet, helpful, hospitable, reliable and hardworking.

-  Houses / architecture

Houses were traditionally built at the edge of arable land, but close to the river, and thus having the desert as your back garden! This means that traditionally Nubian homes had wonderful views of the river in the front, the desert at the back, and a lovely breeze! 

The design of their traditional homes is unique. Usually they are made of mud, are stand alone homes, and house an extended family.

They are beautiful and practical and elicit a feeling of harmony and peace. They usually have a rectangular design, in the centre being a broad central courtyard of……. sand! This large expanse of sand in the middle is like the heart of every home: it represents the land, the desert: one of the loves of every Nubian. They love to sit on it, walk barefoot on it (Nubian foot massage!), run it through fingers, look at it! There are always mats and chairs handy so that you can sit and rest. This sand is clean, pure, and is usually swept daily to be kept neat and tidy. There is no roof, as it hardly ever rains in the desert!

Around this courtyard are usually corridors of rooms: sleeping quarters, kitchen, bathroom. The house expands as the children marry and need more living space for their new family. 

In the bedrooms, you will often find plates/bowls hanging from the ceiling. These have a dual purpose of reflecting the evil eye and bringing blessings of fertility to the happy couple. On occasion, you can find that some little sparrows have taken up residence in some of these.

The gate/door is usually a key feature of every home. The door will be large and decorated, usually facing the Nile. Near the door will be a reception area / guest room, and within you will be able to see the interior “sandy” courtyard.

The artwork continues on the colored walls of the house: symbols, motives, pictures. Most of these reflect the things they love: the river, palm trees, nature. Some are charms/amulets against the evil eye, some tell of the pilgrimage of the owner to Mecca. Sometimes you will find household utensils or even the odd crocodile hanging from the wall. The paintwork on the mud walls is usually in colors of blue, sand, red-earth (desert at sunset).

The roof is usually domed: to reflect the rays of the sun, which beat down in the long summer months: It also improves the air circulation I am told!

After the re-settlement, these riverine communities have become increasingly dense, many losing the stereotypical sandy courtyard. Yet even so, staying in a Nubian home still gives you a unique experience and a delightful connection with these kind, gentle and hospitable people.

... Twinkle Twinkle Chandelier ...

LIGHTS, LIGHTS, EVERYWHERE!

Egyptians are very poetic and grande in their compliments, but one thing that becomes apparent, if you listen, is that Egyptians value and appreciate light, both in speech…. and in their homes!

Some of the often used compliments here in Egypt are:

• You are the light of Alexandria (town name)
• Now you are back, you have made Egypt full of light
• It was dark, but now it is light because of you.
• Your light is brighter than electricity: you bring light to my home

LIGHTS IN THE VILLAGES:

A long, long time ago, before there was electricity in the villages (and even today in a few scattered homes) kerosene lamps were what brought light into the homes at night. Children would gather on the mat with their homework and mother would place the lit kerosene lamp in the middle of the mat, so each child could see their notebook in the flickering flames. The smell and sound of the kerosene lamp, and the gauze lamp that followed still evoke many memories of a hard but happy life as a child in the villages of Egypt.

After these kerosene lamps came the initial generators: noisy and smelly, and nobody wanted to be the child chosen to run and switch off the generator, plunging the home and farm into darkness! Finally, as the electricity pylons, wires and cables marched their way into the villages, great celebration, excitement and awe surrounded each home as light pervaded the homes at the flip of a switch…. well…. most times!

LIGHTS IN MOSQUES & CHURCHES:

In most mosques and churches you will see lights: hanging from the beams, ceilings or on the walls. Some are very ornate, large chandelier type, others more simple, ceramic but nonetheless beautiful. For morning and evening prayers, when it is dark, the mosques and churches emit welcoming lights to all those who seek to enter.

LIGHTS IN THE HOMES:

Egyptians generally like LOTS of lights in their home…. as many as you can fit in one room…. and then add a standing lamp! When asked, they cannot explain why: it’s just how it is! A well-lit home is like happiness! There are 2 main “fashions” when it comes to lighting your home, but one theme is the same in both: more is better….. even if you bump your head on the chandelier! The more the merrier… you can never have enough lights!!!

* CLASSIC

This look usually has a Chandelier in the middle of the room: big, ornate, fancy and expensive! Chandeliers have been in fashion here since the early 1900’s, traditionally copper, now metal, or if you need to go inexpensive…. plastic (which is supposed to look like metal!)

On the walls then, will be added wall lamps, or hidden spot lights, or fluorescent tube lighting behind the railings! Add on a few lamps on the side tables and that will be a standard room.

* MODERN

The modern look is what they call the “American” style: more subtle and peaceful. Hidden wall lamps and spots, lamps on lovely small tables, and mood lighting.

This can include a “Disco ball” light in the middle of your lounge, which can change color and music at the touch of a button.

Light fittings and fixtures are one of the most important things on the list of a new home owner: and the selection available at light shops is completely overwhelming in size, color, range and quantity.

LIGHT ON YOUR HEAD:

Dancing with lit candles on your head, in a layered, ornate style: rather like a chandelier on your head, but with lit candles on each tier! This is said to be at the Henna evening of the bride: usually a day or 2 before the wedding, when she has henna artwork painted on her hands and feet, and celebrates with a group of her female friends and family members.

So whenever you enter a home here, take note of the lights, listen to the compliments, and revel in the warmth and happiness emitting from the wide variety of lights in the life of an Egyptian!

... where “shopping basket” takes on a whole new meaning ...

SHOPPING BASKETS

With the lean towards being “green” many stores have produced organic, re-usable, long-life, or even eternal shopping bags. Even shopping trolleys/carts are no longer metal, but plastic and better for all.

It might be interesting for you to be introduced to a method of shopping in Egypt that many people do not know: the re-usable basket, organic, hand-made, and used in a unique way.

DOOR TO DOOR DELIVERY

In Egypt today, you can order delivery on almost everything: 

       + from cup cakes to headache tablets

              + pizza to shampoo

                    + ice cream to diapers 

All you have to do, is pick up the phone, phone whichever shop, stall, restaurant, market, shop you like, and place your order. Many of them are now online, and orders can be placed without even speaking to anyone! 

The order is then taken and the delivery man is despatched: either on foot, or bicycle, motorbike, car or van.

LOWER THE BASKET…

But in many apartment building there are no elevators (lifts) or they may not work, and people do not like to walk all those steps down and then back up laden with groceries. Also, many “cart shops” (shops on wheels) pass by on the streets below and there is no time to dress appropriately, go all the way down to the street level before the shop has moved on! So a novel idea became the norm: a basket with a rope, lowered down the outside wall of the apartment, to the delivery man / cart shop waiting below.

Usually this basket is made of reeds, or leaves, woven locally, or sometimes cheaply imported. Recently however, very fashionable baskets have appeared on the scened:

• brightly colored
• some with smiley faces on some of them
• some covered in fluffy fabric
• some with “bling” shiny jewels
• and for the new bride, some shiny gold and silver

When I recently asked a friend of mine what her opinion was of these baskets, she vehemently expressed that:

“It is important/ vital/ necessary that EVERY house has one!”

Many apartment blocks have a small grocery or shop on the ground floor, or basement of the buildings, and it is easy to phone or call to the sellers on the street, alerting them that you wish to purchase some of their wares!

AND DOWN IT GOES…

Once the order is made, the person upstairs will keep an eye out on the street to see when the purchases are ready to be hauled up. The empty basket will be lowered (some even from as high as 7 floors up) with the required amount of money. The delivery man / shop assistant will place the ordered goods into the basket, along with the change (unless he gets to keep this as a tip!). This basket will then be pulled up by the lady of the house…. which can take a while depending on which floor she lives.

Once the transaction is complete, the door/window will then be closed, the purchases unpacked and either the cooking started, the baby cleaned, the headache soothed or the cakes consumed.

SEE IF YOU CAN SPOT ONE

So when you come and visit, take some time to glance upwards occasionally and see if you can spot one of the fancy baskets (or their older counterparts) being lowered or pulled back up the outside of an apartment building: it is a unique and interesting transaction to observe….. and if you like the idea, walk down a local market and try and buy one of the newest, shiniest, fanciest ones for yourself!