.....let the people eat cakes, biscuits and pastries.....

It is said that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, but it must be said that the way to an Egyptian’s heart is with cake! Egyptians have very sweet teeth.... and there are a huge range of yummy, sweet, tasty, glorious, in abundance, everywhere, sweet temptations.

Whether you call them:
* Kahk (biscuits/cookies)
       * torte (layered cakes)
               * desserts
                        * sweet things (haga helwa)
                                   * pastries
                                            * desserts...

you will probably want to try one of each of them!

So, who first thought of adding fat to flour and creating pasty and then filling it with yummy fillings? Well, opinions vary but it is maintained that it was the Ancient Egyptians who carry the title of first pastry bakers, probably with what is now known as: The Fig Roll.

A SUITABLE GIFT:
One of the fabulous customs of this country, is that when someone is invited to your home for tea or a meal, they will ALWAYS bring a gift with them: usually something sweet.  So, how do you choose and where do you buy these yummy delicacies?

PATISSERIES:
Scattered all over Egypt, and virtually one in every neighbourhood, all you have to do is ask a local person where is the nearest and best patisserie. They will smile, eyes will twinkle with fond memories, and stomach juices will begin to flow... and then with great excitement they will direct you to the shop of a thousand treats.

In these patisseries you can find a wide range of sweet things (and usually some savory on offer as well). Most of the sweet items have honey as the base, usually along with nuts, pastry, coconut or custard. They are ridiculously high in calories, but once you find your favourite, you will be hooked:

Basbosa: this is a semolina based dessert
Konafa: phylo pastry (or pastry strands rolled into a “nest”), with nuts and honey in the middle
Zalabia: fingers or balls of batter, fried and can be stuffed with nuts or cream
and many more: some with custard in the middle, but coated in a sweet syrupy sauce.
Choose... then place your order, go and pay, hand over the receipt and your purchase will be weighed, boxed and tied with a ribbon. Then off you go.... and watch the envious glances you get from people on the street: everyone loves cake and sweet things, and wishes you were coming to their house!

AND IN RESTAURANTS:
Uum Ali: a hot delicious steaming bowl of bread, milk, sugar, coconut and nuts
Rice pudding: usually cold, rice with sweet milk custard

AND AT SPECIAL FEASTS / CELEBRATION TIMES:
kahk: shortbread type biscuits plain or with filling, rolled in icing sugar
torte: birthday type cakes: heavily iced and decorated, usually multi-layered
cheese-cakes: of a variety of flavours: berry, mango, chocolate, caramel..... to name a few

OUR CHOICE:
In Alexandria, if you need to buy “take-away”, my choice is always:
EL SAIDY, near Sidi Gaber.
If you want to sit down to a nice slice of cake with some coffee, then try DELICES, near Ramla Station: it has history, charm and a little quirkiness!

..... All in a day’s work .....

With unemployment currently reaching 12.4%, finding and seeking work and employment, officially and unofficially is a high priority for many Egyptians. But the general rhythms of life here tend to be totally different to what you may be used to! So, what does an “average” day look like in the cities of Egypt?

WAKE UP!
First wake up is, for most of the population who follow the Islamic faith, just before sun-rise. This will be like an unexpected alarm clock for all new visitors: the loud and clear call from the nearby Mosque, calling and encouraging the worshippers to wake up, wash, dress and come for morning prayers. Those who are able (men) will go down to the local mosque and repeat their morning prayers. Women usually pray at home. Those who are able, return home for another “nap” before they have to get up.... again!

BREAKFAST...
This meal is usually around 10 in the morning, and as with most meals should be shared with fellow workers, family, friends...... meals are best when shared with someone! The fare is usually the local bread (shammy) or freshly baked small breadrolls, with beans (fuul) and falafel (taameia). If you are on the streets around this time, look for little huddles of people, sitting on a mat, or gathered around a make-shift table, all sharing this wonderful communion breakfast... and of course... it is all washed down with a good cup of black tea, in a glass!

THEN WORK....
Most shops, offices and malls will open at around 11 am! If you want anything before then, you will have to head to the local markets (souq) which tend to be open very early until very late... you can tell by the tiredness of the people working there! Give them a smile and a greeting, it livens up an incredibly long (and usually very hot) day! You will hear the shrieking sound of roll-up aluminium doors being opened to reveal tiny, packed stores. Then the quick sweep, dust and water of the pavement outside... in an attempt to keep the dirt at bay! Ready for the day’s trade...

AND ANOTHER CUP OF TEA....
At various times of the day, and sometimes in between, you will see a man with a silver tray with glasses of hot tea, dodging the cars to get to the various shop-owners, to sell them tea: it is the fuel of the people: it brings with it life, laughter, warmth, and a sense of belonging! It is quick to get, wherever you are, as there is always a tiny little “take-away” tea shop hiding somewhere, and in a few minutes you will have a steaming cup of strong sweet tea. If you express an interest, a chair (or what used to be a chair, and now has a missing leg or arm or half a seat) will be whisked out from the depths of the shop and ceremonially placed on the newly swept ribbon of pavement for your pleasure.

THE MAIN MEAL OF THE DAY....
Lunch is dinner in this country, and usually begins around 2 or 3 (depending on work and schooling). Some shops will close from 3 - 5 or so, in order to allow workers to return home for food. Many jobs end at 2 or 3, so that is the end of the official working day, or the end of the first job for the day (as many people will work 2 or 3 jobs a day). Lunch is usually a cooked meal: rice, meat or chicken and fresh salad. A nap after lunch is never considered a bad thing! Drinks (water, tea or sodas) are never eaten with the food, that is for after the meal. Desserts of a wide variety are mostly for guests or for special occasions.

AND THEN THE FUN BEGINS....
After the sunset prayers, the streets begin to really come alive with people. The busiest times for shops are usually after lunch (which ends at around 5). It is not uncommon to be invited to visit friends at 10pm, and most weddings or official parties usually only get going around 11pm and continue well into the morning hours. Movies are shown into the wee hours as well. Moms with toddlers will be seen awake and busy shopping even at midnight. For those of us used to shops closing around 5, it can be a very odd thing to get used to. But the streets at night look completely different: the tired buildings somehow raise their heads, their age being hidden by the darkness, and their foyers beckon you with their twinkling lights. There are very few places in the world where you can feel comfortable walking around at night, alone, even at mid-night.

This is one of them.....

DOCTOR’S APPOINTMENTS:
Several doctors / dentists lecture in the universities during the mornings, go home for lunch, operate in the afternoons and then hold private clinics in the evenings. So it is not at all unusual to go for an operation at 5 pm, or even go for a consultation at 8 pm! This is the going out and making things happen time!!

AND FINALLY TO BED...
The normal bed time for most Egyptians is around mid-night. Anything before that is considered very odd indeed. The idea that children need 10 hours sleep a night is considered very foreign! Life is about people, being together, eating out, sharing meals and moving around in groups socializing: and where the parents go, the children go too. So after a snack type meal of cheese, bread and perhaps fruit, the tired families will head to their bedrooms, fall asleep...
to the continuing sounds of traffic and life on the streets.....

..... celebrating the birth of a child .....

In every culture the birth of a child is usually a time of celebration. In Egypt, it is a time of song, eating, drinking and gifts!

WHAT IS A SABOOA?
The word: “saba” means the number ‘7’. Sabooa is the word used to describe the party that is held to celebrate the birth of a child, because the party is usually held a week after the birth (7 days!).

WHAT HAPPENS AT THIS PARTY?
Family, friends and neighbours will all come and be welcomed. Some will bring gifts or money for the new mother or for the child. The child will be dressed in pink or blue, sparkly and new!  Guests will be given something to drink, including a traditional hot butter drink called “moghat”. Then there is usually an “official” part of the occasion when:

   * the baby will be carefully placed in a large decorated “sieve” and put on a table.

   * the women will light candles and then dance around the child, singing to her: traditional songs, famous and special, that have been sung for many a year at times such as this

   * the child (on the sieve) will be placed on the floor, and the mother will step over her 7 times, while the women sing and clap.

   * the Grandmother (or another highly esteemed older woman in the group) will clang a metal pestle  and mortar, urging, encouraging and advising the child to always listen to the advice and voice of her parents and elders!

   * sometimes 7 varieties of seeds are thrown around the house, guests and baby to symbolize life and health, similar to confetti at a wedding.

WHAT FOOD IS THERE AT THE PARTY?
This can vary depending on the income of the parents, but at every sabooa there must be:
                * candy covered almonds
                          * hummous
                                     * sweet pastries
                                              * sodas
                                                     * and hot butter tea.

If the family is wealthy, and the child is a son, they might slaughter a sheep or a goat. 1/3 will be given to charity, and the rest will be eaten with friends and family.

AND WHEN IT IS ALL OVER....
When all the guests have had enough to eat and drink, have kissed the baby and congratulated the proud parents, they will begin to leave.

At this point each guest will be given a little ‘goodie’ bag:
Usually it will be tied with a ribbon on which is written a little wise saying or the name of the child. Inside this bag will be a few almonds, hummous, chocolates and a little ornament, usually a baby, which will be kept by the guests to remember the sabooa.

...and.... yes.... trash is a problem !

There is probably a single issue that has put off far too many guests who visit this country for the first time, leaving them vowing that they will never return! Whether you call it:

* rubbish
          * trash
                     * garbage
                                    * solid waste
                                                      * zebelah (arabic)

one thing is true: it is very much in evidence everywhere you go, and in a way that you know this country has a problem in this area. Guests often call it a “real disgrace” and many within the country think it is an “unsolvable problem”.

WHY IS IT SUCH A PROBLEM?
There is a variety of reasons, excuses and finger-pointing as to why it is such a problem. But having viewed this as an “outsider” it is interesting that there is a wide chasm between the tidiness and cleanliness within the home or the shop, and then the almost complete disregard for littering once you cross the boundary from personal space into public space. It has become the norm to litter; it is totally acceptable; public littering is tolerated, and even encouraged! One day a friend saw I was carrying an empty water bottle, so took it from me... and then threw it onto the street!!!
But inside the walls of your home or shop, things are clean and neat, well-cared for.... but as soon as you step out into the public areas, litter is everywhere:
throw your trash off the balconey,
- sweep it out the door,
- throw it into the river,
- chuck it from the train
- toss it into the desert....

And before the poor and the uneducated get blamed for this, it must be said that you will find garbage being thrown from windows of lovely, shiny mercedes as well as from the the cheap local trains... By children from fancy private schools as well as those in small rural government schools... by old and young.... employed and without work..... in the cities and the villages:
It is caused by people at all levels of society,
all ages,
all sorts:
it has become the norm.

Egypt is a beautiful country, with some breathtaking beaches, mountains, deserts and of course the Nile River.... but each gem that this country has to offer is disfigured by the trash that clutters every available space:
from train tracks, to beaches, to sea, to the corniches, to the pyramids themselves, even the canals that bring life to the desert, and out in the rural villages....
you will find the ever-present piles of rubbish!

HOW TO EVEN THINK OF SOLVING THIS PROBLEM....
This is a multi-leveled problem: it will need a national change of attitude towards it: from children, to teachers, to parents, to leaders, to government, to businessmen. We all need to re-program our minds: we need to set a new standard of behaviour. But there needs to be an infra-structure: more bins, more encouragement and enforcing of people to use the bins, more people trained to collect, sorting of the trash, re-cycling processes, and well-managed and maintained dump-sites.... and then of course a government that is encouraging the entire system.

Change is never easy... and before you get judgmental, remember that each country has its own problems: this one is just very visible.

SO WHAT CAN YOU DO?
Having acquired this knowledge, you will be anticipating this problem, so hopefully you will not be too shocked. But before you condemn and judge and criticise, perhaps think about being a role model while you are here: be careful with your own trash, people will be watching you. If you are asked what you are doing (not throwing your trash out the window or dropping it on the street), use it as a time to teach and explain to people the importance of keeping their country clean!

BUT THERE IS HOPE...
After the January 2011 Revolution, we saw the youth taking to the streets in vast numbers to clean up the roads and re-paint the side-walks.... so there is definitely a core of people who understand the need for change in this area, and want to work towards having a beautiful and clean country they can be proud of. 
The new president himself, has been raising awareness about the disposal of trash and has launched a campaign for “A clean homeland”... so let’s work together on this!

Change on a national scale needs everyone to do their bit:
so please be encouraging and helpful while you are here!

..... the 5th Pillar of Islam : the Pilgrimage.....

Perhaps many of us did not even know there were 5 pillars of Islam! There are 5 basic components of the Islamic belief:

*the statement of faith
     *the 5 daily times of prayer
          *the voluntary and mandatory giving of money and charity
               *the fasting during the month of Ramadhan
          *the Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca)

The Haj is considered by Muslims to be the ultimate form of worship. This year between 2 - 3 million muslim pilgrims will make their way to Mecca (Saudi Arabia), to perform the 5 -6 day Haj. It is seen as a demonstration of solidarity and submission to God.

WHO MAKES THIS PILGRIMAGE?
It is obligatory: every adult Muslim is required to make this pilgrimage at least once in their life-time, providing that they are healthy and financially able.

WHEN IS THE HAJ PERFORMED?
It is usually the week running up to the Eid el Adha (3 day global festival) which takes place 70 days after Ramadhan. This year the Eid begins at Sunset on the 25th October 2012.

WHAT DO THE PILGRIMS WEAR?
The men will wear “Ihram”. This is 2 sheets of white un-hemmed cloth, draped over one shoulder, and sandals. It is a symbol of ritual purity and highlights the idea that all pilgrims are equal before God.
The women will wear a standard “hijab”. A head covering and long dress with sleeves. Their faces and hands must be uncovered for the Haj, even if they would cover in their home country.

WHERE DO THEY STAY?
Most pilgrims will stay in the large white tented “town” in Medina.

WHAT DO THEY DO ON THE HAJ?
It is a full and busy time, as there are many symbolic and ritual activities to be carried out:
1. the Tawaf: the pilgrim must walk 7 times (counter-clockwise) around the Kabaa (the black cube-shaped structure, in the Al Haram Mosque), proclaiming 7 times that God is Great...
2. the run (now mostly walking) between the 2 hills: Safa and Marwah, 7 times. This is to represent the frantic search for water by Hagar for her son. 
3. drink from the Zam-Zam well: which sprung forth for Hagar and Ishmael.
4. the Arafat prayer vigil: the pilgrim goes to Arafat and has a time of contemplative prayer and Quranic recitation. The hill is called the “Hill of Forgiveness” and many pilgrims find that this is a highlight of the Haj.
5. Muzdalfah: the pilgrim will sleep on the ground on the plains between Mina and Arafat and collect 7 pebbles for the final ritual.
6. Ramy al Jamart: the pilgrim will throw 7 pebbles at the pillars (wall) which symbolises defiance against the devil.

WHAT IS THE FINAL CELEBRATION?
The Eid el Adha (festival of sacrifice) marks the end of the Haj. There is a traditional slaughter of  an animal (where they remember God’s provision of the ram for Abraham instead of his son). The pilgrim will  have “bought” an animal, which is then slaughtered, packaged and shipped to the poor around the world.
The pilgrim will then celebrate the festival with family and friends:
there will be a wonderful exchange of prayers, gifts and greetings.
The “greater Eid” as it is called, is a time to remember Abraham’s willingness to obey God at whatever cost, and also to remember God’s merciful provision.

... how to eat a whole fried fish ...

Most of us from outside of Egypt, may be used to buying and eating fish in our home countries.  Where you come from, it might be:
neatly compacted into fish fingers, frozen and stored in attractive cartons
filleted, frozen in packets (looking very un-fish-like)
battered and fried and sold over the counter wrapped in newspaper
unrecognizably hidden in a bread roll, and called a fish-burger!

In Egypt, the culture places a high value on sharing food together.... and the people love meal times, feasts, celebrations, which involve food of a variety of kinds. But generally what makes Egyptians eyes sparkle in anticipation is the idea of having fish for dinner!

WITH OR WITHOUT SALT!
With Egypt being placed where it is, with the Mediterranean Sea on the North, the Nile running right through the country and of course the Red Sea to the East, there is a wide range of fish readily available: fresh-water and from the sea. Where we are, in Alexandria, the fishermen unload their nets early in the day, and then proceed to try and sell their catch in the markets on in the streets, with loud shouts and tempting prices!

WHERE TO BUY SOME FISH?
You can buy direct from the boats as the fishermen come in (but you will get a price that is as good or bad as your arabic) or make your way to the main fish market (but we suggest you take a local friend to be your negotiator). In most suburbs you will find a small fish shop or 2 in the street markets (souqs) and there you will find a wide range of fresh fish to buy from.

DONT BE ALARMED!
The fish here looks like.... well.... fish... really!! It does not come neatly packaged or unthreateningly compacted! The fish will be laid out in all their glorious fishy-ness:
- with eyes,
- head,
- fins,
- feelers,
- tail
- and pincers!
In fact, if you arrive very early, the odd fish or 2 will give the occasional jump: that is how fresh they are! But take courage, point to the fish you would like: it is sold by weight, so all you need to say is 1 kilo or 2 kilo! Our favourite fish from the sea is: “Aroos” or “Denise”, but many of our local friends love fish from the Nile: “Bolty” or “Boorie”. Our hint is: the bigger the fish, the easier (and more expensive) it is to eat! So place your order, and you usually have the option for them to clean and cook it for you: take the grilled option. They place onions, garlic, peppers, salt and spices and cook it whole, on the grill (charcoal BBQ!)

So when delivery time comes, you open this neatly wrapped bundle, and there lying in a polystyrene tray will be your fish: whole, blackened with cooking, but with a delicious aroma of spices and herbs. You host will be proudly encouraging you to take and eat, or will even pile your plate with 1, 2 or even 3 of these fish.
Most of us from afar are at this stage feeling a little uncomfortable, and usually try and feebly poke at the fish, attempting to ignore the black eyes, tail and head.. and timidly trying to get a mouthful that has no bones... usually to no avail! Then we have to try and extract the bones from our mouths in a non-offensive manner, leaving our hosts wondering why we do not like their food!!

If you watch the average Egyptian, without much thought or effort, and usually accompanied by excited and animated discussions (as they are about to eat fish) they will have removed the head, tail, skin and have all the edible fish filleted and ready to eat within a minute... leaving a wonderful fish bone skeleton behind!!!

HOW DO THEY DO THIS???
We must understand that this is a way of life for these people, part of their culture: Most Egyptians have grown up alongside the Nile, near the Sea... or both! Children grow up watching their parents extricate fish flesh for them, and then usually around the age of 7 or 8 they are allowed to try themselves. There is teaching, heritage, skills and indeed specific family techniques involved in this process. Watch them, ask them to teach you and learn.... it is a valuable skill. They will happily show you their way of doing it: it is all with fingers, not a knife or fork in sight. But don’t be put off: the fish is fresh, delicious and with be eaten with rice, bread and salads. ....and to top it all off (like the lid on a bottle, they say) you will be given tea.

After you have eaten, rinse you hands and then squeeze your fingers inside a piece of lemon (this will remove the fish smell from them) and then wash your hands with soap.... your hosts will guide you!

And finally, lean back on your chair, feeling full and satisfied!!! And your hosts will be smiling with happiness, and very proud that you have shared in this, their favourite meal, with them...

Practice with friends, and hosts and when you are feeling confident enough, go out into public and choose the nicest fish restaurant ....
and eat with pride that you have triumphed over the whole grilled fish dilemma!

... it’s the most wonderful month of the Year...

WHAT IS RAMADAN?
In the Islamic calendar, it is the 9th month, and it is a month that more than 1 billion Muslims celebrate every year. It is the month of fasting: a time where Muslims  work at purifying their souls, refocusing their attentions on God. It is 1 of the 5 pillars of the Islamic faith. It includes the following:
SAWM (the fasting)
ZAKAT (the giving of money, alms, clothing, food to the needy, acts of generosity)
TARAWEEH (Prayers additional time for praying is encouraged)
QURAN (many try to read through the 30 chapters of the holy book in the 30 days of fasting, and many mosques will have Quranic recitations.

WHEN DOES IT START?
The actual date varies every year (about 11 days earlier every year) but this year (2012) it will be from around 19th July - 19th August. But the commencement is dependent on the sighting of the crescent moon, as it is based on a lunar calendar! Ramadan is declared by the religious leaders in the area: each country (and even city or town) will commence at slightly different times.

HOW LONG DOES IT LAST?
For 29 or 30 days (again, depending on the sighting of the moon).

WHAT DO PEOPLE DO?
Adults (having reached puberty) are obliged (obligatory) to fast during the daylight hours: from dawn to sunset. One must fast from:
food
drink
sexual intercourse
cigarettes
This is to teach patience, humility, discipline and sacrifice. But it is much more than just a matter of refraining from food and drink. Muslims are also encouraged to do away with bad habits: refrain from evil actions, thoughts and words. Being kind to others, helping those less fortunate and performing good deeds are very important during this period. It is a time of spiritual reflection and worship, putting more effort and emphasis on purity of thoughts and actions and re-directing one’s heart away from worldly activities.

Children love the Ramadan month: they stay awake all night, until dawn! They play with friends, in the streets, singing special Ramadan songs. They also love to help with the pre-dawn waking up sound: which is usually running through the streets banging on a pot to wake up everyone to have their pre-dawn breakfast!

SO WHEN IS IT TIME TO EAT?
The sunset call to prayer sees most Muslims eating 3 dates and a little water, then attending prayers. After this is the social, communal meal: which is shared with much joy and enthusiasm. This meal is called the Iftar, breaking of the fast. Families will share special foods and desserts that are only made and eaten during this time. In the villages, whole families will gather to share food together. There is a great sense of excitement, as many special cakes, biscuits and desserts are only made during this time of year. There are usually lanterns festooning the streets and colourful ribbons or cloth hung between apartments down thin alley ways and shop-owners usually hang colourful fabrics in their shops: all adding to the special atmosphere. Shops will stock up with a lot of Ramadan type food: lots of dates, icing sugar, raisins and nuts, coconut.... Yum!!

... AND THE QUIET:
This is usually the quietest that you will ever see the streets of Egypt: 90% of the population is in their homes eating together: the streets are deserted, trams virtually at a stand-still while the nation breaks the fast: a time of closeness, religious zeal and excitement.

SO HOW HARD IS IT?
Physically it is a very challenging time. Here, at the moment, the month of fasting is during summer: so going the whole day without water is deeply challenging! For those who work during Ramadan, the days seem terribly long! Many of the people who live in Egypt are used to copious cups of tea and coffee a day, as well as many cigarettes or shisha pipes! So in effect you have almost an entire country going “cold-turkey” off caffeine and nicotine: makes for a really difficult first week!
But Muslims love this month: they look forward to it all year and really feel a spiritual cleansing during this time. You will find that many more people attend the mosques during this time: and often entire blocks will be filled with praying people: streets come to a stand-still... it is an incredible sight.
If you are visiting the country during Ramadan, and you are not fasting, you will still find that shops, markets and restaurants will be open during most of the day. However, we would encourage you to be considerate of those who are fasting, and not drink on the streets or eat in an obvious way around those who are trying to be disciplined: out of consideration to them. Also, as always, we would encourage you to dress modestly and conservatively as this is a sign of respect to those who are trying to fast and be disciplined in all areas.

WHAT ABOUT GIFTS?
During this month acts of charity and giving is rewarded 70 times more than any other time of the year. So there is a lot of giving of gifts: to family, to one another and to the less fortunate. Most children will be given new clothes and shoes (especially for the final day of celebration) and food is given and shared with the poor and the hungry. Money is often given to children within the family... so this is a time that the children love!

HOW DOES IT END?
The last 10 days are considered the most important, which sees a heightened spiritual intensity. The 27th night is called the “Precious Night” (or the night of destiny/power), which is thought to be the time that the Quran was first revealed to the Prophet. These last days are days that are full of blessing, hearing and answering of prayers. Ramadan comes to an end when there is a moon sighting. It ends with a small feast and then on the first day of the new month, there is a celebration with a final meal, Eid Al Fitr. New clothes are worn, friends are visited, families gather, and special dishes are prepared one last time.

It is always with sadness that people end the month of Ramadan: the early pre-dawn meals, the challenges of daily fasting, the focus of spiritual cleaning and refocusing on God are a annual highlight for all Muslims.... and of course the children love the sense of community, the gifts, the money, the special meals..... and the poor and needy receive many gifts and blessings during this month:

No wonder it is called it the favourite month of the year!!!