..... and the wheels go round and round... well....mostly!

There are a variety of options in terms of transport in Egypt. They range from:

* Tuk-tuk
    *Bicycle
        *Back of a donkey cart (or donkey itself)
            *Horse and Cart (or carriage... or horse only)
                * Tram
                    *Train
                        * Metro (Cairo underground)
                    * Ferry
                * Taxi
            * Train
        * Bus
* Local mini-bus

... and they all come in various levels of maintenance, cleanliness and styles of driving, depending on which version or price you pay!

SO WHICH ARE MY FAVORITE WAYS?

1. TRAMS:

In Alexandria, by far my most preferred way of getting around the city (well, most of it) is the tram. It is slow, sometimes crowded (very), the windows are grimy, the floors not well maintained, some seats are broken.... but this is where the people are. You can learn a lot about life as you trundle through the city, by watching who is on the tram, what they are wearing, carrying, where most people get on and off.

There is a relatively simple plan of the tram: 2 routes, which criss-cross and divide up a few times. So have a look at the large maps on the station... well most stations! There is Arabic on the one side and English on the other. There are often no maps inside the tram... so count the stops! Also be prepared as there might be several stops which are not official stops: traffic jams are regularly across the tram lines and cause the trams to stop and wait (amid much hand waving, shouting and horns honking!)

You will also need to learn the tram seating dance! There is a preferred seat (depending on where the sun is) but it is usually the seat facing in the direction of the journey next to the window. So watch how those standing keep their eye on these seats, try and position themselves in a way to grab the next free preferred seat!

If you are “older”, then usually a younger person (if they notice you) will offer for you to sit in their seat. You are expected to refuse, and when they insist, gratefully accept the seat.... and then try and work you way into the preferred seat of the section you are in!

Also, trams in Alexandria have the first carriage as a ladies only. Our first tram ride found our family (2 males) being glared at by the older women in the carriage and giggled at by the younger girls... until finally someone came and made it known (pointing and hand actions) that this was a ladies only carriage.

But for the price of 25 piasters (1 pound if you are in the single carriage “antique” tram) this is a wonderful way to pass the time, and in an unhurried way, learn about the people and culture, from within and without the carriage.

2. TRAINS:

With the roads being so crowded and the traffic being so congested, my choice for getting between the 2 large cities (Alexandria and Cairo) is the train. There are various kinds:
- the “fast train” (non stop)
- the 1 - 3 stop train
- and then the “how many more stops?” train (AVOID THIS ONE)

Take the fast direct train (Arabic=mubashr) and it usually takes around 2.5 hours. There are first and second class options available, but the difference in experience is not that noticeable. Don’t expect clean and pristine, or you will be disappointed. Most windows are usually caked with dust and Egyptian grime (but you will come to realize that this is everywhere all the time) but you can still get a glimpse of the beauty of the Nile Delta villages as you pass through.

There is a small “refreshment” trolley that will be wheeled through your carriage (about 3 times) selling tea, coffee and sandwiches. Most people will bring a bag of snacks or their own sandwiches, but do take a glass of steaming tea or coffee.... it makes for a pleasant experience.
There is a toilet on each carriage, but don’t expect much... and take tissues.

Also remember to allow for delays: and never cut your time too close for airport transfers. Rather have at least 4 hours built in for unexpected delays.... you will get there when you get there.

3. SLEEPER TRAIN:

Having grown up in a family who often took overnight trains to reach our holiday destination, for me there is something wonderful about sleeping on a train. The tourist sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor (or Aswan) is a must. It is the cleanest train in Egypt (again, don’t expect too much) and the bedding is fresh and the meals just fine.

You will get to see some lovely views from your window (again, through a layer of dust) and feel that sense of awe as you approach the ancient capital city, and see the majestic Nile River, remembering all you learnt about the Ancient Egyptians at school.

But, however you get around in Egypt, know that it will be crowded, noisy, grimy... but if you can get over all of that and look around and enjoy the experience, you will meet some wonderful people and get a deeper look into the culture of modern Egypt.

.....the most contentious piece of cloth ever.....

One of the most mis-understood and mis-represented segment of Islam by the “west”, is probably the veiling of Muslim women, and has led to much controversy and stereotyping.

THE BACKGROUND:
Women covering their hair and heads has been in many cultures from way back in the past and is still present in many countries and cultures even today. As the saying goes: “Islam did not invent head covering for women: however, Islam did endorse it! “

One can trace back the origins of veiling in Islam to the teachings of their Prophet: It was suggested by many of the travelling seekers, who came to hear the Prophet teach, that perhaps his wives should be kept “hidden” from the many travellers and seekers who were being taught in the courtyard below. The word “hijab” means:
   * to separate (with a curtain)
          * to divide
              * to partition
                    * to cover
In later revelations, we read verses that all women (those having reached puberty) should be veiled: modesty was the key principle here. In fact, modest dress is viewed as protection, and the veil a symbol of that modesty.

The wives of the Prophet were totally/completely covered (including hands), and some others chose to follow this practice. The Quran stipulates that the hair, neck and “chest” should be covered modestly with a loose cloth, and that the rest of the clothing should not be such that attracts attention. Only your hands and face should be visible to the general public. However a woman is able to let her hair down (literally) at home, in presence of her husband, father or brothers (close "blood" male relatives).... no other men...ever!

TODAY:
It is generally understood today, following many teachings on the writings of the prophet, and applying “logic”, that the modesty requirements of women’s clothing can be summarized as follows:
it should not be tight at all:
- loose and wide
- nothing that highlights the shape of the body
- nothing should be transparent
- no perfumes
- no sounds as they walk (bells on feet!)
- no make-up
- no decorations
- no nail polish
There should be nothing to attract men, or to single a woman out by her choice of clothing. It is “haraam” (punishable by gaining “negative” points on your "sin" account) to draw attention to your body shape. This is because the woman is viewed as the “queen of desire” so should guard herself carefully! This dress code helps men to see the beauty only in their wives. Men for their part are encouraged to dress modestly as well, and also to lower their gaze if a women is not modestly dressed.

FORMS:
The ‘veil’ can take many forms. 

1. The Hijab, although this is the term for all the required conditions of dress, it is generally used to refer to a head-covering which covers the head and the neck, leaving the face uncovered. These head coverings come in many shapes, colours and styles but the objective is to cover the hair completely, and be draped over the “chest” area.
2. The Niqaab is generally understood as clothing that covers the face as well as the head, with the eyes showing.
3. The burqa is a veil which covers the head, face and body of a woman from head to toe, allowing her to see through a gauze like material over the eye area.

TODAY:
On the streets of busy Cairo and Alexandria, you will see the whole spectrum of dress options. Many women say that which form of veil/dress you wear is your personal choice. However, sometimes the father or the husband can have the final say. But on any busy sidewalk you will see the young women in bright, trendy veils, in fun styles, with matching handbags and shoes.... often walking next to a mother or aunt fully veiled in billowing black... in total harmony!
At this stage in this country there is no law stipulating dress specifications, so there is  still room for some debate and discussion as to exactly where one is to draw the modesty line. In the past there were furious debates as to whether women should wear trousers of any kind, as this was traditionally “men’s” clothing, and the Prophet speaks out against women wearing men’s clothes. But today, on the streets, you will find jeans of all shapes and colours, although many still prefer dresses (the traditional aabeya is popular) or skirts.
So when you come to visit, take time to have a look at all the various colours, styles and shapes of veils..... you will need to buy at least one to cover your hair (if you are a woman) when you visit the mosques. Ask some of the women you meet about how they choose their veils, how they put them on, how long it takes them to put on..... even how they choose the pins that hold the veils together...... it will open your mind to a whole new level of shopping!

.....let the people eat cakes, biscuits and pastries.....

It is said that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, but it must be said that the way to an Egyptian’s heart is with cake! Egyptians have very sweet teeth.... and there are a huge range of yummy, sweet, tasty, glorious, in abundance, everywhere, sweet temptations.

Whether you call them:
* Kahk (biscuits/cookies)
       * torte (layered cakes)
               * desserts
                        * sweet things (haga helwa)
                                   * pastries
                                            * desserts...

you will probably want to try one of each of them!

So, who first thought of adding fat to flour and creating pasty and then filling it with yummy fillings? Well, opinions vary but it is maintained that it was the Ancient Egyptians who carry the title of first pastry bakers, probably with what is now known as: The Fig Roll.

A SUITABLE GIFT:
One of the fabulous customs of this country, is that when someone is invited to your home for tea or a meal, they will ALWAYS bring a gift with them: usually something sweet.  So, how do you choose and where do you buy these yummy delicacies?

PATISSERIES:
Scattered all over Egypt, and virtually one in every neighbourhood, all you have to do is ask a local person where is the nearest and best patisserie. They will smile, eyes will twinkle with fond memories, and stomach juices will begin to flow... and then with great excitement they will direct you to the shop of a thousand treats.

In these patisseries you can find a wide range of sweet things (and usually some savory on offer as well). Most of the sweet items have honey as the base, usually along with nuts, pastry, coconut or custard. They are ridiculously high in calories, but once you find your favourite, you will be hooked:

Basbosa: this is a semolina based dessert
Konafa: phylo pastry (or pastry strands rolled into a “nest”), with nuts and honey in the middle
Zalabia: fingers or balls of batter, fried and can be stuffed with nuts or cream
and many more: some with custard in the middle, but coated in a sweet syrupy sauce.
Choose... then place your order, go and pay, hand over the receipt and your purchase will be weighed, boxed and tied with a ribbon. Then off you go.... and watch the envious glances you get from people on the street: everyone loves cake and sweet things, and wishes you were coming to their house!

AND IN RESTAURANTS:
Uum Ali: a hot delicious steaming bowl of bread, milk, sugar, coconut and nuts
Rice pudding: usually cold, rice with sweet milk custard

AND AT SPECIAL FEASTS / CELEBRATION TIMES:
kahk: shortbread type biscuits plain or with filling, rolled in icing sugar
torte: birthday type cakes: heavily iced and decorated, usually multi-layered
cheese-cakes: of a variety of flavours: berry, mango, chocolate, caramel..... to name a few

OUR CHOICE:
In Alexandria, if you need to buy “take-away”, my choice is always:
EL SAIDY, near Sidi Gaber.
If you want to sit down to a nice slice of cake with some coffee, then try DELICES, near Ramla Station: it has history, charm and a little quirkiness!

..... All in a day’s work .....

With unemployment currently reaching 12.4%, finding and seeking work and employment, officially and unofficially is a high priority for many Egyptians. But the general rhythms of life here tend to be totally different to what you may be used to! So, what does an “average” day look like in the cities of Egypt?

WAKE UP!
First wake up is, for most of the population who follow the Islamic faith, just before sun-rise. This will be like an unexpected alarm clock for all new visitors: the loud and clear call from the nearby Mosque, calling and encouraging the worshippers to wake up, wash, dress and come for morning prayers. Those who are able (men) will go down to the local mosque and repeat their morning prayers. Women usually pray at home. Those who are able, return home for another “nap” before they have to get up.... again!

BREAKFAST...
This meal is usually around 10 in the morning, and as with most meals should be shared with fellow workers, family, friends...... meals are best when shared with someone! The fare is usually the local bread (shammy) or freshly baked small breadrolls, with beans (fuul) and falafel (taameia). If you are on the streets around this time, look for little huddles of people, sitting on a mat, or gathered around a make-shift table, all sharing this wonderful communion breakfast... and of course... it is all washed down with a good cup of black tea, in a glass!

THEN WORK....
Most shops, offices and malls will open at around 11 am! If you want anything before then, you will have to head to the local markets (souq) which tend to be open very early until very late... you can tell by the tiredness of the people working there! Give them a smile and a greeting, it livens up an incredibly long (and usually very hot) day! You will hear the shrieking sound of roll-up aluminium doors being opened to reveal tiny, packed stores. Then the quick sweep, dust and water of the pavement outside... in an attempt to keep the dirt at bay! Ready for the day’s trade...

AND ANOTHER CUP OF TEA....
At various times of the day, and sometimes in between, you will see a man with a silver tray with glasses of hot tea, dodging the cars to get to the various shop-owners, to sell them tea: it is the fuel of the people: it brings with it life, laughter, warmth, and a sense of belonging! It is quick to get, wherever you are, as there is always a tiny little “take-away” tea shop hiding somewhere, and in a few minutes you will have a steaming cup of strong sweet tea. If you express an interest, a chair (or what used to be a chair, and now has a missing leg or arm or half a seat) will be whisked out from the depths of the shop and ceremonially placed on the newly swept ribbon of pavement for your pleasure.

THE MAIN MEAL OF THE DAY....
Lunch is dinner in this country, and usually begins around 2 or 3 (depending on work and schooling). Some shops will close from 3 - 5 or so, in order to allow workers to return home for food. Many jobs end at 2 or 3, so that is the end of the official working day, or the end of the first job for the day (as many people will work 2 or 3 jobs a day). Lunch is usually a cooked meal: rice, meat or chicken and fresh salad. A nap after lunch is never considered a bad thing! Drinks (water, tea or sodas) are never eaten with the food, that is for after the meal. Desserts of a wide variety are mostly for guests or for special occasions.

AND THEN THE FUN BEGINS....
After the sunset prayers, the streets begin to really come alive with people. The busiest times for shops are usually after lunch (which ends at around 5). It is not uncommon to be invited to visit friends at 10pm, and most weddings or official parties usually only get going around 11pm and continue well into the morning hours. Movies are shown into the wee hours as well. Moms with toddlers will be seen awake and busy shopping even at midnight. For those of us used to shops closing around 5, it can be a very odd thing to get used to. But the streets at night look completely different: the tired buildings somehow raise their heads, their age being hidden by the darkness, and their foyers beckon you with their twinkling lights. There are very few places in the world where you can feel comfortable walking around at night, alone, even at mid-night.

This is one of them.....

DOCTOR’S APPOINTMENTS:
Several doctors / dentists lecture in the universities during the mornings, go home for lunch, operate in the afternoons and then hold private clinics in the evenings. So it is not at all unusual to go for an operation at 5 pm, or even go for a consultation at 8 pm! This is the going out and making things happen time!!

AND FINALLY TO BED...
The normal bed time for most Egyptians is around mid-night. Anything before that is considered very odd indeed. The idea that children need 10 hours sleep a night is considered very foreign! Life is about people, being together, eating out, sharing meals and moving around in groups socializing: and where the parents go, the children go too. So after a snack type meal of cheese, bread and perhaps fruit, the tired families will head to their bedrooms, fall asleep...
to the continuing sounds of traffic and life on the streets.....

..... celebrating the birth of a child .....

In every culture the birth of a child is usually a time of celebration. In Egypt, it is a time of song, eating, drinking and gifts!

WHAT IS A SABOOA?
The word: “saba” means the number ‘7’. Sabooa is the word used to describe the party that is held to celebrate the birth of a child, because the party is usually held a week after the birth (7 days!).

WHAT HAPPENS AT THIS PARTY?
Family, friends and neighbours will all come and be welcomed. Some will bring gifts or money for the new mother or for the child. The child will be dressed in pink or blue, sparkly and new!  Guests will be given something to drink, including a traditional hot butter drink called “moghat”. Then there is usually an “official” part of the occasion when:

   * the baby will be carefully placed in a large decorated “sieve” and put on a table.

   * the women will light candles and then dance around the child, singing to her: traditional songs, famous and special, that have been sung for many a year at times such as this

   * the child (on the sieve) will be placed on the floor, and the mother will step over her 7 times, while the women sing and clap.

   * the Grandmother (or another highly esteemed older woman in the group) will clang a metal pestle  and mortar, urging, encouraging and advising the child to always listen to the advice and voice of her parents and elders!

   * sometimes 7 varieties of seeds are thrown around the house, guests and baby to symbolize life and health, similar to confetti at a wedding.

WHAT FOOD IS THERE AT THE PARTY?
This can vary depending on the income of the parents, but at every sabooa there must be:
                * candy covered almonds
                          * hummous
                                     * sweet pastries
                                              * sodas
                                                     * and hot butter tea.

If the family is wealthy, and the child is a son, they might slaughter a sheep or a goat. 1/3 will be given to charity, and the rest will be eaten with friends and family.

AND WHEN IT IS ALL OVER....
When all the guests have had enough to eat and drink, have kissed the baby and congratulated the proud parents, they will begin to leave.

At this point each guest will be given a little ‘goodie’ bag:
Usually it will be tied with a ribbon on which is written a little wise saying or the name of the child. Inside this bag will be a few almonds, hummous, chocolates and a little ornament, usually a baby, which will be kept by the guests to remember the sabooa.

...and.... yes.... trash is a problem !

There is probably a single issue that has put off far too many guests who visit this country for the first time, leaving them vowing that they will never return! Whether you call it:

* rubbish
          * trash
                     * garbage
                                    * solid waste
                                                      * zebelah (arabic)

one thing is true: it is very much in evidence everywhere you go, and in a way that you know this country has a problem in this area. Guests often call it a “real disgrace” and many within the country think it is an “unsolvable problem”.

WHY IS IT SUCH A PROBLEM?
There is a variety of reasons, excuses and finger-pointing as to why it is such a problem. But having viewed this as an “outsider” it is interesting that there is a wide chasm between the tidiness and cleanliness within the home or the shop, and then the almost complete disregard for littering once you cross the boundary from personal space into public space. It has become the norm to litter; it is totally acceptable; public littering is tolerated, and even encouraged! One day a friend saw I was carrying an empty water bottle, so took it from me... and then threw it onto the street!!!
But inside the walls of your home or shop, things are clean and neat, well-cared for.... but as soon as you step out into the public areas, litter is everywhere:
throw your trash off the balconey,
- sweep it out the door,
- throw it into the river,
- chuck it from the train
- toss it into the desert....

And before the poor and the uneducated get blamed for this, it must be said that you will find garbage being thrown from windows of lovely, shiny mercedes as well as from the the cheap local trains... By children from fancy private schools as well as those in small rural government schools... by old and young.... employed and without work..... in the cities and the villages:
It is caused by people at all levels of society,
all ages,
all sorts:
it has become the norm.

Egypt is a beautiful country, with some breathtaking beaches, mountains, deserts and of course the Nile River.... but each gem that this country has to offer is disfigured by the trash that clutters every available space:
from train tracks, to beaches, to sea, to the corniches, to the pyramids themselves, even the canals that bring life to the desert, and out in the rural villages....
you will find the ever-present piles of rubbish!

HOW TO EVEN THINK OF SOLVING THIS PROBLEM....
This is a multi-leveled problem: it will need a national change of attitude towards it: from children, to teachers, to parents, to leaders, to government, to businessmen. We all need to re-program our minds: we need to set a new standard of behaviour. But there needs to be an infra-structure: more bins, more encouragement and enforcing of people to use the bins, more people trained to collect, sorting of the trash, re-cycling processes, and well-managed and maintained dump-sites.... and then of course a government that is encouraging the entire system.

Change is never easy... and before you get judgmental, remember that each country has its own problems: this one is just very visible.

SO WHAT CAN YOU DO?
Having acquired this knowledge, you will be anticipating this problem, so hopefully you will not be too shocked. But before you condemn and judge and criticise, perhaps think about being a role model while you are here: be careful with your own trash, people will be watching you. If you are asked what you are doing (not throwing your trash out the window or dropping it on the street), use it as a time to teach and explain to people the importance of keeping their country clean!

BUT THERE IS HOPE...
After the January 2011 Revolution, we saw the youth taking to the streets in vast numbers to clean up the roads and re-paint the side-walks.... so there is definitely a core of people who understand the need for change in this area, and want to work towards having a beautiful and clean country they can be proud of. 
The new president himself, has been raising awareness about the disposal of trash and has launched a campaign for “A clean homeland”... so let’s work together on this!

Change on a national scale needs everyone to do their bit:
so please be encouraging and helpful while you are here!

..... the 5th Pillar of Islam : the Pilgrimage.....

Perhaps many of us did not even know there were 5 pillars of Islam! There are 5 basic components of the Islamic belief:

*the statement of faith
     *the 5 daily times of prayer
          *the voluntary and mandatory giving of money and charity
               *the fasting during the month of Ramadhan
          *the Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca)

The Haj is considered by Muslims to be the ultimate form of worship. This year between 2 - 3 million muslim pilgrims will make their way to Mecca (Saudi Arabia), to perform the 5 -6 day Haj. It is seen as a demonstration of solidarity and submission to God.

WHO MAKES THIS PILGRIMAGE?
It is obligatory: every adult Muslim is required to make this pilgrimage at least once in their life-time, providing that they are healthy and financially able.

WHEN IS THE HAJ PERFORMED?
It is usually the week running up to the Eid el Adha (3 day global festival) which takes place 70 days after Ramadhan. This year the Eid begins at Sunset on the 25th October 2012.

WHAT DO THE PILGRIMS WEAR?
The men will wear “Ihram”. This is 2 sheets of white un-hemmed cloth, draped over one shoulder, and sandals. It is a symbol of ritual purity and highlights the idea that all pilgrims are equal before God.
The women will wear a standard “hijab”. A head covering and long dress with sleeves. Their faces and hands must be uncovered for the Haj, even if they would cover in their home country.

WHERE DO THEY STAY?
Most pilgrims will stay in the large white tented “town” in Medina.

WHAT DO THEY DO ON THE HAJ?
It is a full and busy time, as there are many symbolic and ritual activities to be carried out:
1. the Tawaf: the pilgrim must walk 7 times (counter-clockwise) around the Kabaa (the black cube-shaped structure, in the Al Haram Mosque), proclaiming 7 times that God is Great...
2. the run (now mostly walking) between the 2 hills: Safa and Marwah, 7 times. This is to represent the frantic search for water by Hagar for her son. 
3. drink from the Zam-Zam well: which sprung forth for Hagar and Ishmael.
4. the Arafat prayer vigil: the pilgrim goes to Arafat and has a time of contemplative prayer and Quranic recitation. The hill is called the “Hill of Forgiveness” and many pilgrims find that this is a highlight of the Haj.
5. Muzdalfah: the pilgrim will sleep on the ground on the plains between Mina and Arafat and collect 7 pebbles for the final ritual.
6. Ramy al Jamart: the pilgrim will throw 7 pebbles at the pillars (wall) which symbolises defiance against the devil.

WHAT IS THE FINAL CELEBRATION?
The Eid el Adha (festival of sacrifice) marks the end of the Haj. There is a traditional slaughter of  an animal (where they remember God’s provision of the ram for Abraham instead of his son). The pilgrim will  have “bought” an animal, which is then slaughtered, packaged and shipped to the poor around the world.
The pilgrim will then celebrate the festival with family and friends:
there will be a wonderful exchange of prayers, gifts and greetings.
The “greater Eid” as it is called, is a time to remember Abraham’s willingness to obey God at whatever cost, and also to remember God’s merciful provision.