..... everyone eats them every day .....

We probably all remember our parents at one stage or other telling us to eat our green vegetables! Now broccoli and brussel sprouts (especially cooked until they are soft and mushy) do not usually get those gastric juices going!
But come to Egypt and experience a wide range of what is called “green vegetables”. But they are rather more leafy than one might expect....

* coriander (cilantro)
   * parsley
      * dill
         * mint
            * spinach
               * various lettuces
                                   

SALADS ANYONE?
Now Egyptian local salads (balady) are delicious and fresh. The ingredients are:
- tomato
- cucumber
- onion
- green pepper (if available)
- cilantro
- parsley
- lettuce
- all chopped very, very small.

Salad dressing will usually be: lemon, salt and pepper, olive oil. The cilantro brings a fresh, unique and delicious taste. If you don’t like it, the local salads will not be your favourite!

WHERE DO THEY COME FROM?
Daily, in any of the local street fresh produce markets, you will find huge bunches of these freshly picked leafy greens. They have usually been picked fresh from the farms, and brought in on the back of a bicycle, almost luminous green with all the goodness packed into them.
Almost every person in the market will buy an assortment of these green leafy veggies. They go into salads, mixed into the falafel batter, added to the local meat pies, accompaniment for fish dishes, and of course into every salad. The cost is very low, and you have a hard time asking for one small bunch of anything! You will usually get given at least 2 or 3 bunches to get you started.

A SIMPLE LUNCH
Often during the day, you might see a man carrying about 10 round flat “shammy” breads, a small packet of brown “fuul” beans, and falafel or 2, a few tomatoes and then a nice healthy, shiny green bunch of leafy greens: a simple, quick but surprisingly tasty and healthy lunch. Wash it down with a glass of mint tea and you will be replete.

NEVER EAT SALADS!
Many travelers are afraid to eat fresh leafy greens and many guide books and travel clinics warn against it. We have found that if you select your restaurant or little shop carefully you should be fine. But if you are worried, don’t miss out on these delicious salads! Go out and buy a variety of them, take them home and wash them carefully yourself!
Then taste and see that these greens are good, very good!

..... A Day at the Beach .....

It is apparently well known that every summer  about 1,000,000 people flock to the Egyptian North Coast and Alexandrian beaches: people pour towards the beaches in their hundreds.... and Alexandrians head “out”!

* ZAHMA  ZAHMA!          (crowded crowded)
* DOWSHA  DOWSHA!     (noisy noisy)

These are 2 words that describe very specifically what happens to Alexandria during Summer. And although many Alexandrians shake their heads at the increased traffic and people using local transport, those on holiday LOVE this place.

AN AVERAGE DAY ON THE BEACH:
We remember the time we came for our first trip to Alexandria: it was mid-summer and we stayed in a small apartment overlooking the Corniche. We were amazed: the first few days (and nights) we periodically checked out the window and there were ALWAYS people on the beach, lots of them, no matter what time of day or night it was. The fun just kept on going (even if the sun had gone to bed!)

Most of the beaches along the Corniche during summer have umbrellas and chairs carefully set up. You usually pay to “rent” an umbrella (or 2 ) and a couple of chairs (depending how big your family is). Now understand that whole families (or friendship groups) go to the beach together:
     * grandmas and grandpas (in wheelchairs too!)
          * aunts and uncles
               * moms and dads
                    * sisters and brothers
                        * a baby or 2....

...usually accompanied by lots of picnic food (fried chicken is a favorite), cooler boxes with water and sodas, a variety of bats and balls (and the occasional frisbee) and a selection of swimming aids.

People will select their spot and then stay for the whole day (and sometimes a large portion of the night) There are usually vendors selling a huge range of things:

* t-shirts
* candy floss
* slip slops
* sweet thin wafer biscuits with honey
* water and sodas
* and of course tea!!!

AND PLENTY OF SWIMMING:
Many people are not good swimmers, so they tend to stay quite close to the shore, which can become very crowded. Men will swim in a variety of “board shorts/baggies” type swim shorts. The women... well, you won’t see a bikini or even a “one piece” in sight. But what you will see is fully veiled ladies playing in the waves, having a glorious time. Some women will be wearing the “burqini”, specially designed swimwear that covers arms and legs and is “modest”. Some younger girls will wear their jeans and long sleeve shirts, and spend the day jumping and wallowing in the shallow waves.

But men, women, boys, girls and even babies, will be tireless in their enjoyment of the sea, the sand, the sun, the fun, the food..... and many will stay from early morning until late at night...

Now THAT is a day at the beach !!!

...if coffee is the wine of the bean, drink on...

Who can resist the tempting, rich and strong aroma of a steaming cup of fresh and delicious coffee? Well, I know that some dedicated tea drinkers who won’t touch the “stuff’, but the rest of us not!

SO WHERE DID IT COME FROM?
The first person to discover that the little green bean when roasted, crushed, added to hot water and drunk is highly discussed. Among the finalists for this achievement are:
* some energetic 13th century sheep (well, not the roasting part...)
* an exhilarated shepherd (who tested out the bean while watching the energetic sheep)
* some disapproving monks (who threw the beans into the fire)
* and an exiled healer (who had nothing else to eat)

... and this was all happened in Ethiopia during the 13th century (although the only credible evidence is from the mid 15th century on.)

AND HOW DID IT SPREAD?
The story of this little bean is quite a whirlwind:
it moved from Ethiopia, to Egypt, then Yemen and onto the world! Due to its strangely energizing effect, it was forbidden and banned at various stages of its life by both the Church (Ethiopian and Catholic) and some Imams in Mecca. Over the years, it did become known as the “Muslim drink”, and wherever Islam spread, so did the delicious bean beverage!

AND TODAY, COFFEE IS A HOUSEHOLD WORD!
The origins of the word “Coffee” seem to be in the word:
- qahwat al-bun (wine of the bean). This was shortened into the arabic word:
- Ahwa
- The Turks called it Kahve
- the Dutch turned it into the word Koffie
- the Italians Cafe
- and of course the English Coffee

THE EGYPTIAN COFFEE HOUSES:
Today on every street corner, in most alleys, in each community, you will find at least one “Ahwa”. This word is used for both the actual coffee, and the meeting place where coffee is drunk.
These coffee houses can vary in style, service, and price! But all have the common theme of being a central hub or gathering place, traditionally for men. Chairs and tables are always present, some rather wobbly, and the tables precarious.... but the welcoming waiter will put you at ease.
When you enter (if there is a room to sit in) you will be accosted with great billows of smoke (the coffee houses always have shisha available, in a variety of flavours) and loud voices! These houses are a place where men can congregate to discuss the problems of the world: usually politics, soccer and family matters. There will usually be a TV blaring in the background and most men there will be the “regulars”, the ahwa is almost like their sitting room away from home!
The coffee, usually strong, sweet and in tiny cups (accompanied by a glass of water to wash away the residue and dilute the strength once it hits your stomach!) will be delivered on a silver tray. Although you may only take a few minutes to drink it, you will not be rushed away: this is a place to sit, relax and chat. Some ahwas are directly on the small pavements, so you can watch the people, traffic and life pass you by, literally a few meters in front of you.

ARE WOMEN WELCOME?
Although the ahwa is a traditional place for men, in recent times a few women will be seen in these ahwas. As a foreigner you will always be invited to pull up a chair! However, depending on the area, some ahwas have a long history and tradition, and you will hardly ever see a woman in any of those!
A fairly recent change in Egypt is that there are more trendy (and pricier) versions of the ahwas popping up, and the younger, modern Egyptians will head there in their throngs.
And for those of you who cannot survive without your  “brand name” coffees, don’t panic, you will find some big name coffee shops in Alexandria and Cairo.

AND THERE IS ALWAYS INSTANT....
There has been quite an upsurge in the variety and availability of little individual sachets of instant coffee: you can find:

 * plain black
      * black with milk (2 in 1)
           * black with milk and sugar (3 in 1)

and then there are flavored varieties as well!

When you are in a restaurant, there will usually be the option on the menu for either:
Turkish coffee (thick, sweet and in a small cup)
Nescafe (instant) which you can have with or without milk!

BUT WHICHEVER WAY....
when that rich, velvety aroma of fresh coffee lingers and floats towards you, follow it...... take a seat (however rickety it appears) and allow the ahwa to reveal the history, the heart and the modern tradition of the people of Egypt....

..... and the wheels go round and round... well....mostly!

There are a variety of options in terms of transport in Egypt. They range from:

* Tuk-tuk
    *Bicycle
        *Back of a donkey cart (or donkey itself)
            *Horse and Cart (or carriage... or horse only)
                * Tram
                    *Train
                        * Metro (Cairo underground)
                    * Ferry
                * Taxi
            * Train
        * Bus
* Local mini-bus

... and they all come in various levels of maintenance, cleanliness and styles of driving, depending on which version or price you pay!

SO WHICH ARE MY FAVORITE WAYS?

1. TRAMS:

In Alexandria, by far my most preferred way of getting around the city (well, most of it) is the tram. It is slow, sometimes crowded (very), the windows are grimy, the floors not well maintained, some seats are broken.... but this is where the people are. You can learn a lot about life as you trundle through the city, by watching who is on the tram, what they are wearing, carrying, where most people get on and off.

There is a relatively simple plan of the tram: 2 routes, which criss-cross and divide up a few times. So have a look at the large maps on the station... well most stations! There is Arabic on the one side and English on the other. There are often no maps inside the tram... so count the stops! Also be prepared as there might be several stops which are not official stops: traffic jams are regularly across the tram lines and cause the trams to stop and wait (amid much hand waving, shouting and horns honking!)

You will also need to learn the tram seating dance! There is a preferred seat (depending on where the sun is) but it is usually the seat facing in the direction of the journey next to the window. So watch how those standing keep their eye on these seats, try and position themselves in a way to grab the next free preferred seat!

If you are “older”, then usually a younger person (if they notice you) will offer for you to sit in their seat. You are expected to refuse, and when they insist, gratefully accept the seat.... and then try and work you way into the preferred seat of the section you are in!

Also, trams in Alexandria have the first carriage as a ladies only. Our first tram ride found our family (2 males) being glared at by the older women in the carriage and giggled at by the younger girls... until finally someone came and made it known (pointing and hand actions) that this was a ladies only carriage.

But for the price of 25 piasters (1 pound if you are in the single carriage “antique” tram) this is a wonderful way to pass the time, and in an unhurried way, learn about the people and culture, from within and without the carriage.

2. TRAINS:

With the roads being so crowded and the traffic being so congested, my choice for getting between the 2 large cities (Alexandria and Cairo) is the train. There are various kinds:
- the “fast train” (non stop)
- the 1 - 3 stop train
- and then the “how many more stops?” train (AVOID THIS ONE)

Take the fast direct train (Arabic=mubashr) and it usually takes around 2.5 hours. There are first and second class options available, but the difference in experience is not that noticeable. Don’t expect clean and pristine, or you will be disappointed. Most windows are usually caked with dust and Egyptian grime (but you will come to realize that this is everywhere all the time) but you can still get a glimpse of the beauty of the Nile Delta villages as you pass through.

There is a small “refreshment” trolley that will be wheeled through your carriage (about 3 times) selling tea, coffee and sandwiches. Most people will bring a bag of snacks or their own sandwiches, but do take a glass of steaming tea or coffee.... it makes for a pleasant experience.
There is a toilet on each carriage, but don’t expect much... and take tissues.

Also remember to allow for delays: and never cut your time too close for airport transfers. Rather have at least 4 hours built in for unexpected delays.... you will get there when you get there.

3. SLEEPER TRAIN:

Having grown up in a family who often took overnight trains to reach our holiday destination, for me there is something wonderful about sleeping on a train. The tourist sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor (or Aswan) is a must. It is the cleanest train in Egypt (again, don’t expect too much) and the bedding is fresh and the meals just fine.

You will get to see some lovely views from your window (again, through a layer of dust) and feel that sense of awe as you approach the ancient capital city, and see the majestic Nile River, remembering all you learnt about the Ancient Egyptians at school.

But, however you get around in Egypt, know that it will be crowded, noisy, grimy... but if you can get over all of that and look around and enjoy the experience, you will meet some wonderful people and get a deeper look into the culture of modern Egypt.

.....the most contentious piece of cloth ever.....

One of the most mis-understood and mis-represented segment of Islam by the “west”, is probably the veiling of Muslim women, and has led to much controversy and stereotyping.

THE BACKGROUND:
Women covering their hair and heads has been in many cultures from way back in the past and is still present in many countries and cultures even today. As the saying goes: “Islam did not invent head covering for women: however, Islam did endorse it! “

One can trace back the origins of veiling in Islam to the teachings of their Prophet: It was suggested by many of the travelling seekers, who came to hear the Prophet teach, that perhaps his wives should be kept “hidden” from the many travellers and seekers who were being taught in the courtyard below. The word “hijab” means:
   * to separate (with a curtain)
          * to divide
              * to partition
                    * to cover
In later revelations, we read verses that all women (those having reached puberty) should be veiled: modesty was the key principle here. In fact, modest dress is viewed as protection, and the veil a symbol of that modesty.

The wives of the Prophet were totally/completely covered (including hands), and some others chose to follow this practice. The Quran stipulates that the hair, neck and “chest” should be covered modestly with a loose cloth, and that the rest of the clothing should not be such that attracts attention. Only your hands and face should be visible to the general public. However a woman is able to let her hair down (literally) at home, in presence of her husband, father or brothers (close "blood" male relatives).... no other men...ever!

TODAY:
It is generally understood today, following many teachings on the writings of the prophet, and applying “logic”, that the modesty requirements of women’s clothing can be summarized as follows:
it should not be tight at all:
- loose and wide
- nothing that highlights the shape of the body
- nothing should be transparent
- no perfumes
- no sounds as they walk (bells on feet!)
- no make-up
- no decorations
- no nail polish
There should be nothing to attract men, or to single a woman out by her choice of clothing. It is “haraam” (punishable by gaining “negative” points on your "sin" account) to draw attention to your body shape. This is because the woman is viewed as the “queen of desire” so should guard herself carefully! This dress code helps men to see the beauty only in their wives. Men for their part are encouraged to dress modestly as well, and also to lower their gaze if a women is not modestly dressed.

FORMS:
The ‘veil’ can take many forms. 

1. The Hijab, although this is the term for all the required conditions of dress, it is generally used to refer to a head-covering which covers the head and the neck, leaving the face uncovered. These head coverings come in many shapes, colours and styles but the objective is to cover the hair completely, and be draped over the “chest” area.
2. The Niqaab is generally understood as clothing that covers the face as well as the head, with the eyes showing.
3. The burqa is a veil which covers the head, face and body of a woman from head to toe, allowing her to see through a gauze like material over the eye area.

TODAY:
On the streets of busy Cairo and Alexandria, you will see the whole spectrum of dress options. Many women say that which form of veil/dress you wear is your personal choice. However, sometimes the father or the husband can have the final say. But on any busy sidewalk you will see the young women in bright, trendy veils, in fun styles, with matching handbags and shoes.... often walking next to a mother or aunt fully veiled in billowing black... in total harmony!
At this stage in this country there is no law stipulating dress specifications, so there is  still room for some debate and discussion as to exactly where one is to draw the modesty line. In the past there were furious debates as to whether women should wear trousers of any kind, as this was traditionally “men’s” clothing, and the Prophet speaks out against women wearing men’s clothes. But today, on the streets, you will find jeans of all shapes and colours, although many still prefer dresses (the traditional aabeya is popular) or skirts.
So when you come to visit, take time to have a look at all the various colours, styles and shapes of veils..... you will need to buy at least one to cover your hair (if you are a woman) when you visit the mosques. Ask some of the women you meet about how they choose their veils, how they put them on, how long it takes them to put on..... even how they choose the pins that hold the veils together...... it will open your mind to a whole new level of shopping!

.....let the people eat cakes, biscuits and pastries.....

It is said that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, but it must be said that the way to an Egyptian’s heart is with cake! Egyptians have very sweet teeth.... and there are a huge range of yummy, sweet, tasty, glorious, in abundance, everywhere, sweet temptations.

Whether you call them:
* Kahk (biscuits/cookies)
       * torte (layered cakes)
               * desserts
                        * sweet things (haga helwa)
                                   * pastries
                                            * desserts...

you will probably want to try one of each of them!

So, who first thought of adding fat to flour and creating pasty and then filling it with yummy fillings? Well, opinions vary but it is maintained that it was the Ancient Egyptians who carry the title of first pastry bakers, probably with what is now known as: The Fig Roll.

A SUITABLE GIFT:
One of the fabulous customs of this country, is that when someone is invited to your home for tea or a meal, they will ALWAYS bring a gift with them: usually something sweet.  So, how do you choose and where do you buy these yummy delicacies?

PATISSERIES:
Scattered all over Egypt, and virtually one in every neighbourhood, all you have to do is ask a local person where is the nearest and best patisserie. They will smile, eyes will twinkle with fond memories, and stomach juices will begin to flow... and then with great excitement they will direct you to the shop of a thousand treats.

In these patisseries you can find a wide range of sweet things (and usually some savory on offer as well). Most of the sweet items have honey as the base, usually along with nuts, pastry, coconut or custard. They are ridiculously high in calories, but once you find your favourite, you will be hooked:

Basbosa: this is a semolina based dessert
Konafa: phylo pastry (or pastry strands rolled into a “nest”), with nuts and honey in the middle
Zalabia: fingers or balls of batter, fried and can be stuffed with nuts or cream
and many more: some with custard in the middle, but coated in a sweet syrupy sauce.
Choose... then place your order, go and pay, hand over the receipt and your purchase will be weighed, boxed and tied with a ribbon. Then off you go.... and watch the envious glances you get from people on the street: everyone loves cake and sweet things, and wishes you were coming to their house!

AND IN RESTAURANTS:
Uum Ali: a hot delicious steaming bowl of bread, milk, sugar, coconut and nuts
Rice pudding: usually cold, rice with sweet milk custard

AND AT SPECIAL FEASTS / CELEBRATION TIMES:
kahk: shortbread type biscuits plain or with filling, rolled in icing sugar
torte: birthday type cakes: heavily iced and decorated, usually multi-layered
cheese-cakes: of a variety of flavours: berry, mango, chocolate, caramel..... to name a few

OUR CHOICE:
In Alexandria, if you need to buy “take-away”, my choice is always:
EL SAIDY, near Sidi Gaber.
If you want to sit down to a nice slice of cake with some coffee, then try DELICES, near Ramla Station: it has history, charm and a little quirkiness!

..... All in a day’s work .....

With unemployment currently reaching 12.4%, finding and seeking work and employment, officially and unofficially is a high priority for many Egyptians. But the general rhythms of life here tend to be totally different to what you may be used to! So, what does an “average” day look like in the cities of Egypt?

WAKE UP!
First wake up is, for most of the population who follow the Islamic faith, just before sun-rise. This will be like an unexpected alarm clock for all new visitors: the loud and clear call from the nearby Mosque, calling and encouraging the worshippers to wake up, wash, dress and come for morning prayers. Those who are able (men) will go down to the local mosque and repeat their morning prayers. Women usually pray at home. Those who are able, return home for another “nap” before they have to get up.... again!

BREAKFAST...
This meal is usually around 10 in the morning, and as with most meals should be shared with fellow workers, family, friends...... meals are best when shared with someone! The fare is usually the local bread (shammy) or freshly baked small breadrolls, with beans (fuul) and falafel (taameia). If you are on the streets around this time, look for little huddles of people, sitting on a mat, or gathered around a make-shift table, all sharing this wonderful communion breakfast... and of course... it is all washed down with a good cup of black tea, in a glass!

THEN WORK....
Most shops, offices and malls will open at around 11 am! If you want anything before then, you will have to head to the local markets (souq) which tend to be open very early until very late... you can tell by the tiredness of the people working there! Give them a smile and a greeting, it livens up an incredibly long (and usually very hot) day! You will hear the shrieking sound of roll-up aluminium doors being opened to reveal tiny, packed stores. Then the quick sweep, dust and water of the pavement outside... in an attempt to keep the dirt at bay! Ready for the day’s trade...

AND ANOTHER CUP OF TEA....
At various times of the day, and sometimes in between, you will see a man with a silver tray with glasses of hot tea, dodging the cars to get to the various shop-owners, to sell them tea: it is the fuel of the people: it brings with it life, laughter, warmth, and a sense of belonging! It is quick to get, wherever you are, as there is always a tiny little “take-away” tea shop hiding somewhere, and in a few minutes you will have a steaming cup of strong sweet tea. If you express an interest, a chair (or what used to be a chair, and now has a missing leg or arm or half a seat) will be whisked out from the depths of the shop and ceremonially placed on the newly swept ribbon of pavement for your pleasure.

THE MAIN MEAL OF THE DAY....
Lunch is dinner in this country, and usually begins around 2 or 3 (depending on work and schooling). Some shops will close from 3 - 5 or so, in order to allow workers to return home for food. Many jobs end at 2 or 3, so that is the end of the official working day, or the end of the first job for the day (as many people will work 2 or 3 jobs a day). Lunch is usually a cooked meal: rice, meat or chicken and fresh salad. A nap after lunch is never considered a bad thing! Drinks (water, tea or sodas) are never eaten with the food, that is for after the meal. Desserts of a wide variety are mostly for guests or for special occasions.

AND THEN THE FUN BEGINS....
After the sunset prayers, the streets begin to really come alive with people. The busiest times for shops are usually after lunch (which ends at around 5). It is not uncommon to be invited to visit friends at 10pm, and most weddings or official parties usually only get going around 11pm and continue well into the morning hours. Movies are shown into the wee hours as well. Moms with toddlers will be seen awake and busy shopping even at midnight. For those of us used to shops closing around 5, it can be a very odd thing to get used to. But the streets at night look completely different: the tired buildings somehow raise their heads, their age being hidden by the darkness, and their foyers beckon you with their twinkling lights. There are very few places in the world where you can feel comfortable walking around at night, alone, even at mid-night.

This is one of them.....

DOCTOR’S APPOINTMENTS:
Several doctors / dentists lecture in the universities during the mornings, go home for lunch, operate in the afternoons and then hold private clinics in the evenings. So it is not at all unusual to go for an operation at 5 pm, or even go for a consultation at 8 pm! This is the going out and making things happen time!!

AND FINALLY TO BED...
The normal bed time for most Egyptians is around mid-night. Anything before that is considered very odd indeed. The idea that children need 10 hours sleep a night is considered very foreign! Life is about people, being together, eating out, sharing meals and moving around in groups socializing: and where the parents go, the children go too. So after a snack type meal of cheese, bread and perhaps fruit, the tired families will head to their bedrooms, fall asleep...
to the continuing sounds of traffic and life on the streets.....