... a traditional , indulgent and civilised past-time ...

In most Cafes and on many street corners, you will see one of the oldest traditions of the Middle East: Shisha smoking. For some of us, our first introduction to this pipe might have been through Lewis Carroll’s character: the Caterpillar (Alice in Wonderland). But in the Middle East, it is a tradition almost as old as time, and with as many names....

• nargile (coconut, Indian)
• sheesha (Glass, Persian)
• water pipe
• hookah (jar, Arabic)
• hubbly bubbly (the sound as the water bubbles through!)

ORIGINS OF THE SHEESHA PIPE:

The concept is thought to have originated in India/Persia in the 1560s and after its humble beginnings in coconut shells, developed and spread and soon became a symbol of prestige. The master-mind behind it is thought to be an Iranian physician (Hakim Gilani) who was said to have be greatly alarmed at the increase of smoking in the Mughal Courts, and attempted to build a filter to purify the smoke, by making it pass through water thus creating the first sheesha pipe. 

MAIN COMPONENTS OF A SHEESHA PIPE:

There are a frightening array of parts and purchases necessary for the lighting of the sheesha pipe, and will bewilder any new smoker! These days, with the “national addiction” of the middle eastern nations increasing in popularity in Europe and America, you can do your on-line buying of any of these components in a variety of colours and styles and many other accessories too!

1. BOWL (head) usually clay, holds the tobacco and the coal
2. WIND-SCREEN (foil cover with air holes) prevents wind blowing the ash and altering the temperature of the coals
3. HOSE: (Flexible tube) usually brightly, at the end of which is a mouth-piece.
4. PURGE VALVE: to get rid of any stale smoke (if you have taken too long to draw!)
5. WATER JAR (base/vase) Usually of glass, or even in the past, out of gold or silver. and even from crystal (from Venice). The smoke is bubbled through the water in this jar.

TYPES OF TOBACCO:

The traditional sheesha tobacco is marinaded in molasses. Some countries have used Cannabis (weed/grass) as well! But these days more popular is the flavoured tobacco blends, the range is almost overwhelming:

apple, strawberry, apricot, mint, chocolate, banana, coconut, bubble gum, grape, honey! 

MEN ONLY?

Traditionally, in public, women did not smoke sheesha pipes, though I have heard that some did in the privacy of their own homes. But today, though many still frown upon the idea, many of the more modern coffee/restaurants will have sheesha available and the young men and women of the cities will sit together and smoke sheesha. Sometimes you will even find groups of only women smoking together, and on occasion even a woman on her own, nonchalantly puffing away.

IS IT A HEALTH RISK?

The average sheesha session takes a minimum of 45 minutes. It should never be rushed. It is a social activity, to be enjoyed with coffee and pleasant conversation. In this time, there could be 100 inhalations. There are many discussions and arguments about which smoke is worse for you: cigarettes or sheesha. As a non-smoker, I would vote for neither! 

However, as a civilised past-time, part of a long culture, a social and enjoyable past-time, I have realised that those who smoke sheesha do not really care about tar levels, amount of smoke inhaled and lung disease! To them, they are sharing a long and ancient tradition of the land, and a part of their heritage. 

And if you ask them what they think, they will shrug, and suggest you pull up a  chair, have a puff, drink a cup of coffee and chat with them for a while!

..... The Star of the East.....

Soon after you arrive in Egypt, you will become aware of a distinctive voice that can be heard playing from the radio, a tape-deck, an ancient record player, on television.... in taxi’s, in coffee shops, in restaurants and in homes. Usually these songs have lengthy periods of Egyptian classical instrumental music, and then this deep, rich, powerfully haunting voice will emerge..... usually followed by tumultuous applause from an unseen audience. But, it will seem like the song goes on and on and on....... because they do!

Ask about who this is! You will usually see the person you ask sigh, get a sparkle in their eye, a gentle smile on their face, shake their head and ask how it is possible that you do not know this woman. Her name is Om Khalthoum, singer, song-writer and actress, and has been ascribed many titles in her life:

* The Voice of Egypt
     * Mother of all Arabs
          * The Queen
               * The Lady
                    * Nightingale of the East
                         * Most well known singer of the Middle East
                               * Most influential woman of her time

HER BACKGROUND:
She was born in a small village in the Nile Delta, her day of birth uncertain, as in those days, in the villages, it was not considered a law, nor vital to register births. She grew up near the Nile, at home with the seasonal planting and harvest that is part of Delta life: the River, the Land and the “fellaheen” (farming people) moulded her thinking.

Her father was an “Imam” (leader in the Mosque), and from very young taught her to “sing” recitations from the Quran, and soon recognized that his daughter was gifted with a rich and powerful voice. It was not “allowed” or considered appropriate for girls/women to sing in public, to strange men, so from the age of about 7, her father dressed her up as a young Bedouin boy (with long jacket and headdress) and she joined a team of singers, singing Islamic ballads at village celebrations and feasts, directed by her father. News of her incredible talent started to spread, and people were drawn to her voice.... eventually some came even from Cairo. They recognized her talent and some gifted musicians and poets began to partner and train her for the fame and success that was unfolding before their eyes.

THE MOVE TO CAIRO:
Later she moved to Cairo with her parents, and lived the rest of her life there, but she never forgot her childhood in the Delta. She gained in popularity and was invited to perform in many distinguished parties and gatherings. She left behind her Bedouin-boy outfit in exchange for elegant yet modest gowns. What she became famous for was her legendary “1st-Thursday-of-every-month” concerts. These were broadcast live from Cairo and could last 3-4 hours, and yet she only sung 2 - 3 songs!! It is said that for the first of these concerts, feeling a little overwhelmed, she reached out for a scarf, and although she was no longer covering her head, from that day on, holding a scarf in her hand became a symbol of her identity, her past, her faith, and she used them to highlight emotions in her song.... the scarves, her sunglasses and her modestly glamorous gowns became her trademarks.

HER MUSICAL STYLE:
Her origins were in Religious recitations, but then she moved on to the Classic Arabic Poetic tradition, finally including Arab popular music. But her partnering with talented and respected musicians and poets of the time, writing for her and guiding her, added a profound richness to her music. Her voice is legendary: strong, rich and emotionally powerful. It is believed that she often had to stand away from the microphone as her voice was too much for the microphone!
But she won the nation over with her unique improvisation: each time she sang a song, it would be different, and she could repeat even a one or two line phrase over a 5 minute period, getting more and more emotional and leading her audiences into a musical ecstasy of feeling and emotion. So a song could vary from 45 minutes to almost 2 hours, depending on the connection and flow between her and the audience.

Her musical ensemble included violins, the “oud”, “kanun”, tambourine, accordion, various Egyptian wind instruments and the traditional drums.

HER THEMES:
Most of her songs contain the heart wrenching themes centering around relationships:
LOVE, LONGING..... and LOSS
between a man and woman, parent and child, and of course the love of the land of Egypt.
She sings with strength and passion about these relationships, articulating for her audience the loves, disappointments, difficulties and deep passion of matters of the heart, helping the audiences flow with her as she navigates the highs and lows of these rich relationships.


WHO LISTENS TO HER?
Everyone!! If you ask almost any Egyptian, any age, they can tell you stories of how their parents or grandparents listened (and still listen) to her music! One friend of mine, who also grew up in a Delta village, tells of how as a child, on Thursday evenings when they broadcast those performances live, she and others would run to a nearby house (one of the few who owned) a radio, and they would sit under the open window-sill outside the house, and listen for hours as the rich voice of Om Khalthoum touched their hearts...and the hearts of most of Egypt! This singer touches deep into the hearts and heritage of this nation, reminding them of their roots, their loves, their despair, their pain and their loves. She lifts up the spirits, calms people when they are despondent.... and makes people feel that everything will work out.... her music stirs their emotions yet calms their souls.

HER LEGACY:
Om Khalthoum died in 1975 at approximately 74 years of age. She recorded 300 songs in a career that spanned 60 years.
You can find LP records still in many homes today, hear her programs repeated on the TV, many radio broadcasts, CDs, tapes and of course the new generation is downloading and buying her music off i-tunes.

HER MOST POPULAR SONG:
Most people can tell you their favorite song of hers straight away, and will argue vociferously the reasons why! But usually it is because her authentic sound and depth of lyrics echo some emotional turmoil they were going through, or remind them of the childhood, or stir up feelings of longing and pride for their county: hypnotic and melancholic!
But the song that most people mention as the favorite is:
Inta Omri: You are my life.

You might want to take a listen.... but beware, depending on which recording you listen to, it will be at least 40 minutes long... possibly even up to 2 hours!

..... everyone eats them every day .....

We probably all remember our parents at one stage or other telling us to eat our green vegetables! Now broccoli and brussel sprouts (especially cooked until they are soft and mushy) do not usually get those gastric juices going!
But come to Egypt and experience a wide range of what is called “green vegetables”. But they are rather more leafy than one might expect....

* coriander (cilantro)
   * parsley
      * dill
         * mint
            * spinach
               * various lettuces
                                   

SALADS ANYONE?
Now Egyptian local salads (balady) are delicious and fresh. The ingredients are:
- tomato
- cucumber
- onion
- green pepper (if available)
- cilantro
- parsley
- lettuce
- all chopped very, very small.

Salad dressing will usually be: lemon, salt and pepper, olive oil. The cilantro brings a fresh, unique and delicious taste. If you don’t like it, the local salads will not be your favourite!

WHERE DO THEY COME FROM?
Daily, in any of the local street fresh produce markets, you will find huge bunches of these freshly picked leafy greens. They have usually been picked fresh from the farms, and brought in on the back of a bicycle, almost luminous green with all the goodness packed into them.
Almost every person in the market will buy an assortment of these green leafy veggies. They go into salads, mixed into the falafel batter, added to the local meat pies, accompaniment for fish dishes, and of course into every salad. The cost is very low, and you have a hard time asking for one small bunch of anything! You will usually get given at least 2 or 3 bunches to get you started.

A SIMPLE LUNCH
Often during the day, you might see a man carrying about 10 round flat “shammy” breads, a small packet of brown “fuul” beans, and falafel or 2, a few tomatoes and then a nice healthy, shiny green bunch of leafy greens: a simple, quick but surprisingly tasty and healthy lunch. Wash it down with a glass of mint tea and you will be replete.

NEVER EAT SALADS!
Many travelers are afraid to eat fresh leafy greens and many guide books and travel clinics warn against it. We have found that if you select your restaurant or little shop carefully you should be fine. But if you are worried, don’t miss out on these delicious salads! Go out and buy a variety of them, take them home and wash them carefully yourself!
Then taste and see that these greens are good, very good!

..... A Day at the Beach .....

It is apparently well known that every summer  about 1,000,000 people flock to the Egyptian North Coast and Alexandrian beaches: people pour towards the beaches in their hundreds.... and Alexandrians head “out”!

* ZAHMA  ZAHMA!          (crowded crowded)
* DOWSHA  DOWSHA!     (noisy noisy)

These are 2 words that describe very specifically what happens to Alexandria during Summer. And although many Alexandrians shake their heads at the increased traffic and people using local transport, those on holiday LOVE this place.

AN AVERAGE DAY ON THE BEACH:
We remember the time we came for our first trip to Alexandria: it was mid-summer and we stayed in a small apartment overlooking the Corniche. We were amazed: the first few days (and nights) we periodically checked out the window and there were ALWAYS people on the beach, lots of them, no matter what time of day or night it was. The fun just kept on going (even if the sun had gone to bed!)

Most of the beaches along the Corniche during summer have umbrellas and chairs carefully set up. You usually pay to “rent” an umbrella (or 2 ) and a couple of chairs (depending how big your family is). Now understand that whole families (or friendship groups) go to the beach together:
     * grandmas and grandpas (in wheelchairs too!)
          * aunts and uncles
               * moms and dads
                    * sisters and brothers
                        * a baby or 2....

...usually accompanied by lots of picnic food (fried chicken is a favorite), cooler boxes with water and sodas, a variety of bats and balls (and the occasional frisbee) and a selection of swimming aids.

People will select their spot and then stay for the whole day (and sometimes a large portion of the night) There are usually vendors selling a huge range of things:

* t-shirts
* candy floss
* slip slops
* sweet thin wafer biscuits with honey
* water and sodas
* and of course tea!!!

AND PLENTY OF SWIMMING:
Many people are not good swimmers, so they tend to stay quite close to the shore, which can become very crowded. Men will swim in a variety of “board shorts/baggies” type swim shorts. The women... well, you won’t see a bikini or even a “one piece” in sight. But what you will see is fully veiled ladies playing in the waves, having a glorious time. Some women will be wearing the “burqini”, specially designed swimwear that covers arms and legs and is “modest”. Some younger girls will wear their jeans and long sleeve shirts, and spend the day jumping and wallowing in the shallow waves.

But men, women, boys, girls and even babies, will be tireless in their enjoyment of the sea, the sand, the sun, the fun, the food..... and many will stay from early morning until late at night...

Now THAT is a day at the beach !!!

...if coffee is the wine of the bean, drink on...

Who can resist the tempting, rich and strong aroma of a steaming cup of fresh and delicious coffee? Well, I know that some dedicated tea drinkers who won’t touch the “stuff’, but the rest of us not!

SO WHERE DID IT COME FROM?
The first person to discover that the little green bean when roasted, crushed, added to hot water and drunk is highly discussed. Among the finalists for this achievement are:
* some energetic 13th century sheep (well, not the roasting part...)
* an exhilarated shepherd (who tested out the bean while watching the energetic sheep)
* some disapproving monks (who threw the beans into the fire)
* and an exiled healer (who had nothing else to eat)

... and this was all happened in Ethiopia during the 13th century (although the only credible evidence is from the mid 15th century on.)

AND HOW DID IT SPREAD?
The story of this little bean is quite a whirlwind:
it moved from Ethiopia, to Egypt, then Yemen and onto the world! Due to its strangely energizing effect, it was forbidden and banned at various stages of its life by both the Church (Ethiopian and Catholic) and some Imams in Mecca. Over the years, it did become known as the “Muslim drink”, and wherever Islam spread, so did the delicious bean beverage!

AND TODAY, COFFEE IS A HOUSEHOLD WORD!
The origins of the word “Coffee” seem to be in the word:
- qahwat al-bun (wine of the bean). This was shortened into the arabic word:
- Ahwa
- The Turks called it Kahve
- the Dutch turned it into the word Koffie
- the Italians Cafe
- and of course the English Coffee

THE EGYPTIAN COFFEE HOUSES:
Today on every street corner, in most alleys, in each community, you will find at least one “Ahwa”. This word is used for both the actual coffee, and the meeting place where coffee is drunk.
These coffee houses can vary in style, service, and price! But all have the common theme of being a central hub or gathering place, traditionally for men. Chairs and tables are always present, some rather wobbly, and the tables precarious.... but the welcoming waiter will put you at ease.
When you enter (if there is a room to sit in) you will be accosted with great billows of smoke (the coffee houses always have shisha available, in a variety of flavours) and loud voices! These houses are a place where men can congregate to discuss the problems of the world: usually politics, soccer and family matters. There will usually be a TV blaring in the background and most men there will be the “regulars”, the ahwa is almost like their sitting room away from home!
The coffee, usually strong, sweet and in tiny cups (accompanied by a glass of water to wash away the residue and dilute the strength once it hits your stomach!) will be delivered on a silver tray. Although you may only take a few minutes to drink it, you will not be rushed away: this is a place to sit, relax and chat. Some ahwas are directly on the small pavements, so you can watch the people, traffic and life pass you by, literally a few meters in front of you.

ARE WOMEN WELCOME?
Although the ahwa is a traditional place for men, in recent times a few women will be seen in these ahwas. As a foreigner you will always be invited to pull up a chair! However, depending on the area, some ahwas have a long history and tradition, and you will hardly ever see a woman in any of those!
A fairly recent change in Egypt is that there are more trendy (and pricier) versions of the ahwas popping up, and the younger, modern Egyptians will head there in their throngs.
And for those of you who cannot survive without your  “brand name” coffees, don’t panic, you will find some big name coffee shops in Alexandria and Cairo.

AND THERE IS ALWAYS INSTANT....
There has been quite an upsurge in the variety and availability of little individual sachets of instant coffee: you can find:

 * plain black
      * black with milk (2 in 1)
           * black with milk and sugar (3 in 1)

and then there are flavored varieties as well!

When you are in a restaurant, there will usually be the option on the menu for either:
Turkish coffee (thick, sweet and in a small cup)
Nescafe (instant) which you can have with or without milk!

BUT WHICHEVER WAY....
when that rich, velvety aroma of fresh coffee lingers and floats towards you, follow it...... take a seat (however rickety it appears) and allow the ahwa to reveal the history, the heart and the modern tradition of the people of Egypt....

..... and the wheels go round and round... well....mostly!

There are a variety of options in terms of transport in Egypt. They range from:

* Tuk-tuk
    *Bicycle
        *Back of a donkey cart (or donkey itself)
            *Horse and Cart (or carriage... or horse only)
                * Tram
                    *Train
                        * Metro (Cairo underground)
                    * Ferry
                * Taxi
            * Train
        * Bus
* Local mini-bus

... and they all come in various levels of maintenance, cleanliness and styles of driving, depending on which version or price you pay!

SO WHICH ARE MY FAVORITE WAYS?

1. TRAMS:

In Alexandria, by far my most preferred way of getting around the city (well, most of it) is the tram. It is slow, sometimes crowded (very), the windows are grimy, the floors not well maintained, some seats are broken.... but this is where the people are. You can learn a lot about life as you trundle through the city, by watching who is on the tram, what they are wearing, carrying, where most people get on and off.

There is a relatively simple plan of the tram: 2 routes, which criss-cross and divide up a few times. So have a look at the large maps on the station... well most stations! There is Arabic on the one side and English on the other. There are often no maps inside the tram... so count the stops! Also be prepared as there might be several stops which are not official stops: traffic jams are regularly across the tram lines and cause the trams to stop and wait (amid much hand waving, shouting and horns honking!)

You will also need to learn the tram seating dance! There is a preferred seat (depending on where the sun is) but it is usually the seat facing in the direction of the journey next to the window. So watch how those standing keep their eye on these seats, try and position themselves in a way to grab the next free preferred seat!

If you are “older”, then usually a younger person (if they notice you) will offer for you to sit in their seat. You are expected to refuse, and when they insist, gratefully accept the seat.... and then try and work you way into the preferred seat of the section you are in!

Also, trams in Alexandria have the first carriage as a ladies only. Our first tram ride found our family (2 males) being glared at by the older women in the carriage and giggled at by the younger girls... until finally someone came and made it known (pointing and hand actions) that this was a ladies only carriage.

But for the price of 25 piasters (1 pound if you are in the single carriage “antique” tram) this is a wonderful way to pass the time, and in an unhurried way, learn about the people and culture, from within and without the carriage.

2. TRAINS:

With the roads being so crowded and the traffic being so congested, my choice for getting between the 2 large cities (Alexandria and Cairo) is the train. There are various kinds:
- the “fast train” (non stop)
- the 1 - 3 stop train
- and then the “how many more stops?” train (AVOID THIS ONE)

Take the fast direct train (Arabic=mubashr) and it usually takes around 2.5 hours. There are first and second class options available, but the difference in experience is not that noticeable. Don’t expect clean and pristine, or you will be disappointed. Most windows are usually caked with dust and Egyptian grime (but you will come to realize that this is everywhere all the time) but you can still get a glimpse of the beauty of the Nile Delta villages as you pass through.

There is a small “refreshment” trolley that will be wheeled through your carriage (about 3 times) selling tea, coffee and sandwiches. Most people will bring a bag of snacks or their own sandwiches, but do take a glass of steaming tea or coffee.... it makes for a pleasant experience.
There is a toilet on each carriage, but don’t expect much... and take tissues.

Also remember to allow for delays: and never cut your time too close for airport transfers. Rather have at least 4 hours built in for unexpected delays.... you will get there when you get there.

3. SLEEPER TRAIN:

Having grown up in a family who often took overnight trains to reach our holiday destination, for me there is something wonderful about sleeping on a train. The tourist sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor (or Aswan) is a must. It is the cleanest train in Egypt (again, don’t expect too much) and the bedding is fresh and the meals just fine.

You will get to see some lovely views from your window (again, through a layer of dust) and feel that sense of awe as you approach the ancient capital city, and see the majestic Nile River, remembering all you learnt about the Ancient Egyptians at school.

But, however you get around in Egypt, know that it will be crowded, noisy, grimy... but if you can get over all of that and look around and enjoy the experience, you will meet some wonderful people and get a deeper look into the culture of modern Egypt.

.....the most contentious piece of cloth ever.....

One of the most mis-understood and mis-represented segment of Islam by the “west”, is probably the veiling of Muslim women, and has led to much controversy and stereotyping.

THE BACKGROUND:
Women covering their hair and heads has been in many cultures from way back in the past and is still present in many countries and cultures even today. As the saying goes: “Islam did not invent head covering for women: however, Islam did endorse it! “

One can trace back the origins of veiling in Islam to the teachings of their Prophet: It was suggested by many of the travelling seekers, who came to hear the Prophet teach, that perhaps his wives should be kept “hidden” from the many travellers and seekers who were being taught in the courtyard below. The word “hijab” means:
   * to separate (with a curtain)
          * to divide
              * to partition
                    * to cover
In later revelations, we read verses that all women (those having reached puberty) should be veiled: modesty was the key principle here. In fact, modest dress is viewed as protection, and the veil a symbol of that modesty.

The wives of the Prophet were totally/completely covered (including hands), and some others chose to follow this practice. The Quran stipulates that the hair, neck and “chest” should be covered modestly with a loose cloth, and that the rest of the clothing should not be such that attracts attention. Only your hands and face should be visible to the general public. However a woman is able to let her hair down (literally) at home, in presence of her husband, father or brothers (close "blood" male relatives).... no other men...ever!

TODAY:
It is generally understood today, following many teachings on the writings of the prophet, and applying “logic”, that the modesty requirements of women’s clothing can be summarized as follows:
it should not be tight at all:
- loose and wide
- nothing that highlights the shape of the body
- nothing should be transparent
- no perfumes
- no sounds as they walk (bells on feet!)
- no make-up
- no decorations
- no nail polish
There should be nothing to attract men, or to single a woman out by her choice of clothing. It is “haraam” (punishable by gaining “negative” points on your "sin" account) to draw attention to your body shape. This is because the woman is viewed as the “queen of desire” so should guard herself carefully! This dress code helps men to see the beauty only in their wives. Men for their part are encouraged to dress modestly as well, and also to lower their gaze if a women is not modestly dressed.

FORMS:
The ‘veil’ can take many forms. 

1. The Hijab, although this is the term for all the required conditions of dress, it is generally used to refer to a head-covering which covers the head and the neck, leaving the face uncovered. These head coverings come in many shapes, colours and styles but the objective is to cover the hair completely, and be draped over the “chest” area.
2. The Niqaab is generally understood as clothing that covers the face as well as the head, with the eyes showing.
3. The burqa is a veil which covers the head, face and body of a woman from head to toe, allowing her to see through a gauze like material over the eye area.

TODAY:
On the streets of busy Cairo and Alexandria, you will see the whole spectrum of dress options. Many women say that which form of veil/dress you wear is your personal choice. However, sometimes the father or the husband can have the final say. But on any busy sidewalk you will see the young women in bright, trendy veils, in fun styles, with matching handbags and shoes.... often walking next to a mother or aunt fully veiled in billowing black... in total harmony!
At this stage in this country there is no law stipulating dress specifications, so there is  still room for some debate and discussion as to exactly where one is to draw the modesty line. In the past there were furious debates as to whether women should wear trousers of any kind, as this was traditionally “men’s” clothing, and the Prophet speaks out against women wearing men’s clothes. But today, on the streets, you will find jeans of all shapes and colours, although many still prefer dresses (the traditional aabeya is popular) or skirts.
So when you come to visit, take time to have a look at all the various colours, styles and shapes of veils..... you will need to buy at least one to cover your hair (if you are a woman) when you visit the mosques. Ask some of the women you meet about how they choose their veils, how they put them on, how long it takes them to put on..... even how they choose the pins that hold the veils together...... it will open your mind to a whole new level of shopping!