... alluring tattoo’s on hands, arms, ankles and feet ...

HENNA - the glorious dye that has been used for 6000 years (or so) for hair and skin is still alive and well in Egypt!

WHAT IS HENNA?

Henna is a flowering plant: a tall shrub (or a short tree!) with the proud formal name of “Lawsonia”. This plant is found naturally in:

• North Africa
• West and South Asia
• and North Australia                                                                                                           The leaves are dried and pounded into a powder and the mixed with a mild acid (like lemon juice) into a paste. After it is left to stand for a few hours, it can be used to stain skin, hair, fingernails and fabrics.

HOW TO APPLY HENNA:

There are a variety of tools that can and have been used:

• a stick
• a twig
• a syringe
• a cone

 The longer it is left, the darker it becomes and the longer it lasts. It is best applied on the hands and feet, as here the skin is thin and will look darker and last longer

BLACK HENNA:

Henna is never black in its natural form! It has a brown-reddish color. Sometimes different chemicals are added to the henna to turn it black, but these can be harmful and should be avoided.

WHEN IS HENNA USED:

Henna is generally applied on “happy days”:

• holidays
• celebrations
• victories
• marriages
• and when good luck is needed

MEN AND WOMEN?

Henna is most often used for Brides, as the patterns and decorated hands and feet are thought to be very alluring for the Groom! However, Muslim men often use henna in their beards and hair (when they are going grey). This is considered a commendable tradition in Islam.

HOW LONG DOES A HENNA TATOO LAST?

This is only temporary, and depends where it was put, how long you left it to dry, and how often that area is exfoliated. In general it will last between 1-2 weeks at most.

... let it flow, let it flow, let it FLOW ...

THE  NILE   RIVER

The ancient and famous mighty river, referred to as “the Father of African Rivers”, that snakes it way through Egypt is a truly phenomenally international river, the life-line to the ancient Egyptian civilizations and still under heated debate today.

SOME FUN FACTS:

+ The Nile River is the longest river in the world
    + The Nile River runs north
        + it is 6853km (4,258miles) long
            + it flows through a quarter of all Africa
                + it touches 11 different countries
                    + the Nile Basin covers just less than 3.5 million square kilometers of land
                        + Egypt is 96% desert
                            + 1545kms of the Nile runs through Egypt
                                + only 22% of the river runs through Egypt!

PRIMARY SOURCES OF THE NILE:

The Nile is fed by 2 main sources:

• the White Nile (which originates from the Great Lakes in Central Africa)
• The Blue Nile (from Lake Tana in Ethiopia)   -  80% of Egypt’s water comes from the Blue Nile

These rivers confluence near Khartoum and then flow upwards to the Mediterranean Sea. 

THE CATARACTS:

These are where the normal flow of the river is “disturbed” by rocks, islands and is more shallow than usual and thus difficult to navigate.  There are 6 of these cataracts, only one in Egypt, in Aswan. All of them occur on the “Great Bend” in the Nile, where it seemingly veers off its course before getting back on track and heading towards the Mediterranean again.

THE MOUTH OF THE NILE:

In Egypt, near Cairo, the River divides again into 2 branches:

• the Rosetta (Rushid) branch (West)
• the Damietta branch (East)

Between these 2 branches is the area known as:

THE DELTA:

This is the large flat, fertile plains where the flooding river would gently deposit its rich silt before finally entering the Mediterranean. This was the “food basket” of Egypt in days gone by. Half of Egypt’s population lives in the Delta region.

THE ANNUAL FLOODS:

The ancient rhythm of the Nile dictated the life of the ancient Egyptians. Once a year, the farmers left their fields and went to their villages higher up to await the annual flood. This flooding in the Delta region, brought about a large deposit of thick, rich dark silt, mostly from Ethiopia. When the waters had subsided enough, the farmers would come back down to the plains and begin to plant on the lovely moist and rich fields. These annual floods dictated the life and times of the Egyptians 

THE ASWAN DAM:

The annual floods stopped in 1969, when the Aswan Hight Dam was being built. This altered the rhythm and life of the people of Egypt. This meant that people could live closer to the Nile, and no longer needed to move for the flood and wait months for the water to recede so they could begin planting. They could now build and live right alongside the nile and farm throughout the year. Many people initially feared the ancient curse that would be incurred should anyone interfere with the natural rhythms of the river, but life has re-established itself along the Nile, with new villages, homes, farms and harvest. But no longer is that thick black rich silt easily deposited on the land.

…the blessed fruit of the palm tree…

3 KINDS OF DATES:

These types are different in size, color, taste and price!

Sikodi: These are long and soft, brown and yellow in color. They are prevalent during the month of Ramadan, where eating dates is the way to break the daily fast.

Bertimoda: These are small and yellow. They are known for their energy (glucose) and are often mixed with “Ghee” to make a buttery sugary boost for energy. This is known as : Samna ballad (Ghee from the countryside). They are the cheapest of the 3 dates.

Agandera: These are the most expensive, and are chocolate brown in color. They are used for eating and are considered the best tasting.

THE DATE CYCLE:

Planting usually takes place in January (towards the end of “winter”). This can either be by:

• seeds (which is considered more risky as you cannot be sure which kind of the 3 dates you are planting, nor whether it is male or female)
• baby tree (which usually grows out of the mother tree. This is the safer and quicker route as it is established, you know what kind of date it is, and what sex.)

The seed will take 3 months to begin to grow leaves, and almost 3 years to bear fruit.

The adult tree flowers in January, and is harvested in August. Usually a good adult tree will produce around 100kgs of dates in a year.

After harvest the female trees will be pruned, in preparation for the following cycle. The leaves in which the fruit has “slept” will be cut off, making room for the newer, fresher stronger leaves to do the job of “holding” the fruit the following year.

GIRLS OR BOYS?

There is a big difference between the male and female trees:

FEMALE: they are wider, stronger, thicker and longer than their male counterparts. They are the ones that produce and bear the fruit.

MALE: the male tree produces the pollen which will fertilize all the female trees within “wind” distance! Usually there is only a need for 1 male tree for every 4 or 5 female trees. Pollination is usually by wind (January/February being the windy time) but some farmers prefer to do manual pollination harvesting the pollen from the male trees and placing it carefully in the female trees. The male trees do not produce any fruit.

USES FOR DATES:

• eating (fresh!)
• jam (boiled and bottled)
• glucose (mixed with ghee)
• dried (and then crushed and used in cakes)

Each piece of the date palm tree has some benefit for the people:

• leaves: basket, carpets, roofing, hats, toys
• branches: brooms
• sisal: ropes, buckets, donkey bags or blankets
• branch spine: furniture
• seeds: crush and use as kohl for the eyes!

MONEY MONEY MONEY:

In the former times, dates were worth their weight in gold and were even used as “money”. There was a set measurement utensil for dates, and dates could be used to barter other things in the market or with neighbors. Dates could also be used to pay off any “credit” that one might have added up at the local merchant. Dates were a sign of blessing, and in harvest time as the men were up the trees, throwing the dates down to the ladies below, there was often to be heard, lovely songs of praise and happiness being sung.

... smoke and fragrances rising up everywhere ...

Periodically as you walk the busy streets and markets in Egypt, you will see a man waving some coals inside a shop or restaurant, and then he will leave behind a strong perfumed smoke that lingers on.

WHO IS THIS?

He is known as the incense man! Usually each area has a “famous” man, and he will do the rounds of shops, markets and homes as requested, and will receive a small payment for his services. In the past, it was the Dervishes (a member of a Muslim, specifically Sufi, religious order who has taken vows of poverty and austerity) who used to perform this function, but now it seems to be an allocated person by the community, and sometimes is a job handed-down within a particular family. He will usually whisper some religious phrases and words of blessing as he walks around and disperses the fragrant smoke.

WHAT IS HE BURNING?

The coals are burning incense, or “Boukhoor” as it is called in Arabic. These can be fragrant sticks of incense bought from a spice seller in the market (el Ataar) or in powder form or even the more expensive little “rocks” of spices bought from Saudi Arabia, which are said to be the best. They come in a variety of fragrances: strawberry, jasmine, and even frankincense.

WHY DOES HE DO THIS?

It is believed that incense helps the evil spirits to be chased away (evil eye) and at the same time it brings blessings on the house or shop (good luck, wealth, love etc). It is like a kind of spiritual cleansing. In ancient Egypt the reasons were both medical and religious, and large quantities were burned every day throughout Egypt in the temples. In those times, a lot of the fragrances and ingredients for the incense were brought from far and wide, and an odor was selected that was thought to please the gods. The incense would have been made up from: flowers, herbs, roots, gums, resins and woods: anything with a strong aroma.

HOW OFTEN DOES THIS HAPPEN?

Apparently is it usual to do this on a Friday particularly. Many women will do this in their homes. In shops and markets it is even done daily. He will usually do this in the morning, as it will clear the evil for the day, and bring blessings on the shops and markets for that day. Apparently it is an old wives tale that angels gather where the smell is the sweetest!

IN THE COPTIC CHURCHES:

Incense is used liberally in orthodox church services. They believe it is a biblical fact, that incense represents the prayers and praises of the saints and angles, and it is burned in churches as an introduction to and preparation for the prayers and praises to follow during the service. 5 spoonfuls of incense are used in the censer, to represent the 5 righteous men who burned pleasing aromas to God.

….so, as you walk around, in churches, homes, markets, shops and restaurants you will breathe in the pleasing and heady aromas of freshly burnt incense… remember to speak out a blessing on the country and her people as you pass by. 

... counting your prayers ...

Prayer beads have a long history: initially beads were strung and used as ornaments. The first that is heard of beads being used as a prayer tool was in India, in the Hindu faith. 

Today, prayer beads are used in many different faiths:

• Hinduism
• Buddhism
• Christianity
• Sikhism
• and Islam

What they all have in common is their purpose:

• to help count the number of prayer recitations
• to aid concentration during personal prayers
• as a source of comfort: fingering the beads during times of stress or anxiety. This is the reason they are often referred to as “worry” beads!

Each faith has a slightly different number of beads and they have different patterns of usage.

ISLAMIC PRAYER BEADS:

Some Muslims believe that prayer beads in the Islamic faith are an “unwelcome innovation”, and propose that all Muslims use the “finger joint” counting method (as the Prophet Mohammed did) as being the only way to tally prayers.

However, 600 years ago use of prayer beads in the Islamic faith became popular and widespread. The words used to name this practice are:

• Misbaha (the prayer beads)
• Tasbih (the counting of praises)
• Sibha  

In the Islamic prayer beads, there are 99 beads in a full set, divided into 3 sets of 33, but a small disc, and ending in a tassel, so that the user can “feel” where they are in the prayers. These 99 beads are to represent the 99 names of God. But the more popular beads are the smaller ones with 33 beads on them, again often divided into sets of 3. 

THE PRAYERS: 

It is recommended to recite these praise prayers after each of the 5 daily ritual prayers:

Subnah Allah (Glory be to God)

Al-hamdu lilah (Praise be to God)

Allah Akbar (God is the greatest)

You would say 33 of each of these, and then end with a final prayer, the total being 100. 

But you can also pray these voluntary prayers on the go: any place, any time. As a friend said to me: “It helps pass the time when you are stuck in a traffic jam!” (which here in Egypt can be a lot of the time!). Basically any free time you have in a day can be used to make these repetitions.

THE USE OF THE BEADS:

Beads are moved through the fingers, using the thumb, reciting one of the phrases above, 33 times. This “fingering” allows the user to keep track of how many prayers have been said, with a minimal amount of conscious effort. This is turn allows greater attention to be paid to the prayers themselves.

TYPES OF BEADS:

You can get many and varied prayer beads: whatever your pocket can afford! Beads can range from the mass produced plastic variety, to the hand-made ones of pure gold, so I am told! And in between you will find them made from:

• glass
• fragrant wood
• jade
• coconut shells
• mother of pearl shells
• stones
• pearls
• seeds
• crystal

They can vary (usually) from 5 mm in diameter, to 20 mm. 

MODERN PRAYER COUNTERS:

Recently here in Egypt, I have seen the rise in popularity of the prayer counters. These are hand held, strapped onto the wrist or arm, or worn as a ring. They can be manual, mechanical, digital, with LED lights, electronic, mini tally counters and now come in a variety of colors and can be ordered on line. You click every time you pray, and it keeps a progressive total for you. 

This is met with mixed feelings, as it is a new invention, and also the danger is that you begin to “show off” or compete with others, losing the key focus of the prayers. Also the total of your prayers becomes more visible for others to see, and can then be worn as a “trophy”.

But many find that it is easy, modern, simple and reliable, and enjoy the new way of keeping track of the prayers they have said.

...the beverage that is a MUST...

Tea drinking in Egypt has been described as:

   * an integral part of the culture: its symbol
        * an obsession
             * a timeless tradition
                  * a passion
                       * a past-time
                            * the main source of energy
                                 * a way of life
                                      * and THE cultural beverage!

But whatever you call it, when you are in Egypt, you will drink it, or rather you WILL drink it, and lots of it. You will find the “compulsory” cup of tea thrust into your hands at every opportunity. 

THE HISTORY:

Apparently, black tea was first brought here by the Venetian traders, who mainly used the port city of Alexandria. Since then, drinking of “normal” tea has flourished and grown, and now it occupies 70% of the beverage market! Most of the tea is imported from Kenya and Sri Lanka, Egypt being the one of the world’s largest importers of tea.

HOW IS THE TEA MADE?

Well, there is not a long, intricate ceremony or ritual with Egyptian tea, but it is rather a passion, a duty, a MUST. So in people’s homes, sidewalk cafes, shops, random places in the city, all that is required is a chair, or even a mat to sit on to start the tea drinking. Within minutes, you will be presented with your tea. 

There are said to be 2 kinds of tea making:

1. Koshary tea (from the North). This tends to be lighter in color, and not as strong: half a teaspoon of loose leaves per cup, and is usually spooned into the cup of hot water and stirred.
2. Saidi tea (from the South) This is strong, heavy and has been boiled for up to 5 minutes. 2 teaspoons of tea leaves per cup.

Both will be served with a lot of sugar: therein lies the energy. Most foreigners prefer the lighter tea from the North. But don't be alarmed if you have a bitter cup of strong southern tea: asking for extra sugar is never a problem!

Tea is not usually served in porcelain cups or pottery/ceramic mugs: it must be glass, usually without a handle! The Egyptians tell me that half the joy of drinking tea is admiring the deep rich colour. You will find that once you get over not having a porcelain or pottery cup, you feel deprived if you can’t see what you are drinking. Most guests go home and buy a glass cup for their tea!

Often you can ask for mint tea, which usually means you will be given a large sprig of mint to add to your glass! This gives it a refreshing flavor and fragrance, and mint is always good for any stomach gripes you may have!

OTHER TEAS?

It is said that the Pharaohs were the ones to drink Hisbiscuis (bright red) and fenugreek (yellow) tea. Hibiscus tea is more popular in the South where it is grown, and can be drunk hot or cold, but either way has a lot of sugar as tea should have! It is a deliciously refreshing drink on a  hot summer’s day.

Other teas that are popular are annaseed, chamomile and cinnamon. In more recent times, Early Grey and Green tea have been increasing in popularity and availability. Egyptian women love any tea that is said to “melt away” the fat, and have various teas they will encourage you to drink to lose weight: ginger and cinnamon is a good one they say!

AND NEVER DRINK ALONE!

Tea is never drunk on the go, or take-away: you will always sit somewhere, slow yourself down, settle in, feel the noise and hustle-bustle of the country slowly fade away….. until the waiter brings you your steaming glass of refreshment. You usually have to sit and wait for the glass to cool down a bit, so this gives you time to chat and interact with those around you…. you should never drink alone. The saying goes that if you drink alone, you will die alone. It is a social event, an occasion, to be repeated often in a day.

When the glass has cooled a little, using 2 fingers and your thumb, carefully placed near the rim of the cup (coolest part of the cup) take that first sip…

…savor the moment

…close your eyes and swallow…

…time slows down.

WELCOME IN EGYPT!

… where the national staple food is a huge sour pancake-ish thing …

INTRODUCTION:

One of the most interesting cultural experiences in a new county is THE FOOD! And in Ethiopia the local cuisine is surprisingly different and unique tasting. The staple food of the Ethiopian people has been called:

• a pancake (the size of a tyre!)
• a sour crepe bandage
• a pale chamois cloth
• a hand towel
• a serviette
• spongy-sourdough-flatbread

 But however unusual the look, and indeed the taste, you have to learn about it and then give it a try!

TEFF GRAIN:

Injeera (as this staple dish is called) is made from a grain unique to Ethiopia and is called TEFF, an ancient grass! It is apparently the smallest grain in the world (teeny tiny) but packs a powerful punch in terms of its nutritional value. Although only grown in Ethiopia, news of TEFF and injeera is spreading to the west due to the fact that it is gluten-free! 

INJEERA:

The “bread” is made by fermenting the grain for a short period (around 3 days). It is then made into a pourable paste and then cooked over coals on a large and very hot flat iron pan, usually greased by using cabbage seeds! A small amount is poured quickly, in a circular motion on the large, round, hot iron pan. This is then quickly covered with a clay lid until steam is seen to be coming out of the sides. Then you flip this large round hot, steaming, fermented pancake over. It is spongy/bubbly/holey on the one side and then flat and smooth on the other. It is best eaten fresh, although it can be eaten up to 3 days later if stored carefully. Injeera can be baked at home or bought fresh daily from local stores.

AND THE SAUCES:

Once the injeera is ready, one of these is usually layed open on an equally large round platter, holey-side up! On top of this “table-cloth” of injeera is then poured the various small bowls of sauces (wat) that have been selected. Most of these “wat” sauces will be spicy: Ethiopians love the spicy foods! They can be mild (made from lentils, or vegetables) or with meat (lamb or beef). One of our favorites was Shiro (made from chick peas, buttery with a hint of spice).

AND THE UNTENSILS:

The injeera bread becomes the eating utensil as well. In addition to the round table-cloth injeera, you will be given other portions of injeera to use as well. With either, you will tear off a small bite-size portion, throw it bubbly-side down onto the food you want, wrap it around the food in one swoop directly into your mouth! It takes a bit of practice but just watch a local person for a few mouthfuls and you should be ready to try yourself. 

AN INTERESTING CUSTOM:

We discovered an interesting sign of friendship: if an Ethiopian makes a little swoop with injeera onto some sauce and then leans across to you placing the food near your lips, open up and eat it! It is a sign of hospitality, friendship and respect. If you are brave enough, you can attempt to reciprocate! 

So don’t be scared of the food: it looks weird, but roll up your sleeves, tear away at the injeera, scoop up the sauce, pop into your mouth and savor the surprising rich and spicy taste of Ethiopia’s food: I guarantee you will order more!

(And in case the injure does not grab your taste, there is usually rice available and some yummy fresh bread… but at least try once!!)