… let the water flow…

Egypt lies along the Nile River, and from ancient times, the challenge of getting the water from the Nile to the farming land has been ever-present. Now with electricity, generators and pumps, the whole speed, sound and manner of moving water has changed. But if you look very hard, you can find the slow, steady, methodical and even mesmerizing manner of moving water….

THE ANNUAL FLOODING:
This flooding was a blessing but also a challenge! Ancient life was based on the rhythms of the annual flooding: it was predictable and timely. It is said that June 17th was the night of the drop of the “Celestial Tear”, which dropped from the heavens and started the annual floods. Usually these floods reached Southern Egyptian borders in July, reached Aswan in mid-August, lasting 4 - 6 weeks. The receding of the waters was during October/November. The Nilometer (a vertical column, like an ancient water-ruler) was used to predict and measure the extent of the flooding, and taxes on agriculture were set by the predicted harvests based on the amount of water.
The challenge was how to expand the cultivation area by moving water from the Nile during the dry summer. The Egyptians invented and used many simple machines to aid agriculture.

THE LEGENDARY SHADUF:
I think almost all of us studied the “Ancient Egyptians” in our school years, drawing pyramids, making copies of the mummies and painstakingly re-creating an obelisk. But for me, the thing that kept me amazed was the “shaduf”: the irrigation tool of old. It is basically a bucket and lever lifting machine. There is an upright frame, a long tapering pole, a bucket/basket/skin bag on one end, and a counterweight on the other. With an almost effortless pull by the operator, the pole can be swung and lifted, scooping and carrying water from the pond/river to an irrigation tunnel, which leads the water to the fields. It is said that a shaduf could transport up to 2 500 litres a day.

WATER WHEELS:
This was normally a wheel with buckets or clay pots along the circumference. Buckets were emptied into a trough/aqueduct. It was operated by the flow of the river, and was the first non-human operated lifting device. The current of the stream turns the wheel, and lowers the pots into the stream and fills them up. As the wheel continues to turn, the pots are upturned and emptied into the canals or fields. The cycle then continues…
In the area called The Fayoum, (100kms outside Cairo) there are about 200 such waterwheels. Hamza El Din, a singer, composed a song on the “Oud” called “Water wheel”, telling of the memories and soothing sounds created by the wheels he remembered as a child.

SAKIA:
The Persian water wheel: this was oxen-powered and had pots on a rope with 2 pulleys. This kind of water wheel was usually used to raise water out of a well, usually with a child or 2 guiding and encouraging the animals to keep walking.

THE ARCHIMEDES SCREW:
This was apparently designed by the legendary Greek Scholar, Archimedes, on a visit to Egypt. Its purpose was to transfer water from a low-lying body of water to irrigation ditches higher up. It consisted of a helix spiral inside a cylinder, that is open at both ends. The lower end was placed in water, at a slant. It was then manually operated, by turning the handle. As the helix was rotated, water would slide upwards, caught in the spirals, until pouring out at the top of the tube.

TODAY:
All over the Delta region you can hear the throbbing sound of pumps, and daily watch thousands of litres of water being transferred to fields further away from the canals or the rivers. Some of the ancient examples can be found in some museums and hotels….but if you wander into some distant villages you might still see examples from old, and be amazed at their simplicity yet effectiveness.

...the wonderful ironing men of Egypt...

Each of us has a household chore that we absolutely dread. I know that even the idea of ironing anything other than a handkerchief or a small pillow case send chills down my spine. I tend to iron in more creases than get rid of them!

I know many people who find ironing relaxing and fulfilling…. but for people like me, one of the things you will want to do fairly soon after arriving in Egypt is to find the closest:

* Makwagi
    * dhobi
        * ironing man
            * laundry


WHAT IS A MAKWAGI?
The word “makwa” means an iron. A “makwagi” is a person who irons, and here in Egypt, almost on every street you will find an ironing man.

A TRADITIONAL OCCUPATION:
Ironing here is almost an art-form, and indeed it is a skill and an occupation that is sometimes passed on down the generations, from father to son. The little “shops” that you will find in every neighborhood are sometimes so small that you will walk past them without even noticing! The rooms are usually very small, very basic but continuously busy, all year round.

Egyptians take a great pride in their clothes, and to appear in public in un-ironed clothes is frowned upon. So each Makwagi will usually have a set of dedicated customers, usually within a close distance of his shop. However, some people will not change the Makwagi that their parents used, or they used before changing suburbs, and will insist that their best clothes still go to the original man!

A DAILY CHORE:
You can drop you washed clothes at the Makwagi yourself, or have his “assistant’ (runner/delivery person) collect the clothes for you. If it is urgent, you can sit and wait until it is finished. People can spend many pleasant hours waiting for their ironing to be finished, chatting about the neighbourhood, the country and indeed the problems of the world. It is a good place to watch people pass by and share a cup of tea together!
Once the ironing is done, it is either folded carefully or hung on a hanger and then delivered to your home, or you pick it up on the way home.

THE IRONING PROCESS:
Depending on the age of the Makwagi, you will find irons both ancient and modern:
* many still have the old heavy irons that are heated on coals
* some even have electric irons
… but I have never seen a steam iron!
And this is where some of you may balk at the process! To “spritz” water onto the dry garments, many of the older Makwagi’s do not use a neat little spray bottle! They will take a sip of water from a nearby cup and spray it out of their mouth onto the garment and then happily iron away! This is how it has been taught from generation to generation, and these men have perfected the “spray and iron” method!

THE COST:
You might be surprised at how “cheap” the cost is, compared to getting ironing done in your country! Depending on the suburb and the fame of the Makwagi, (and of course how good your arabic is) a local person will pay:
Le1-2 per shirt (depending how complicated it is!!)

GIVE IT A TRY!!
So while you are visiting here, don’t pay the exorbitant costs of the hotels, (many of whom will use the local Makwagi anyway)…. ask around and find out where the best local ironing man is, take your bundle of clothes to him, and then experience the meticulous attention to detail, the pride in their work, which goes on: day in, day out, 6 days a week, around 11 hours a day….. relieving you of an arduous chore and providing income to a Makwagi and his family!

... and the 2 shall become 1 ...

Although cultures can be so varied in many instances, it is surprising the similarities in weddings around the world! And here in Egypt, you will see many things that you instantly recognize:

* lovely young lady in a fancy white gown
          * suave young man in formal suit and tie
                    * wedding car with flowers on the bonnet
                              * music wherever they go!!!


THE ENGAGEMENT:
What would have happened prior to this day, is that the 2 families would have got together to discuss and agree if this wedding was possible. If all parties agreed, there would be a buying of the wedding gold: usually a ring, a necklace and a bracelet (a set), and possibly a bangle or 2, the cost depending on the income of the bridegroom.
These would have been presented to the bride at an engagement party: cake, soda and music being vital aspects of the engagement party.

After the engagement there would have been a flurry of purchasing: the bridegroom buying most of the furniture for the house, and the bride the “electronics” for the kitchen.
When the contents of their new home are purchased and ready, the wedding can proceed.

THE WEDDING:
There is usually a signing of “The Book” in the presence of representatives from both families, the couple, and an Imam (leader in a Mosque). This can be done before the wedding day, at a mosque, or at the celebration venue the day of the wedding.

The bride and groom arrive (usually) to much music, cheering, clapping and dancing (with a video crew following them, and a photographer.) Inside the venue will be beautifully set tables, a huge draped couch for the bridal couple and a large empty dance floor. Also there are normally many large screens around the room, and there is video streaming of the couple live throughout the celebration!

Depending on the venue and the income, there will be some sort of ceremony: men with large swords, rising stages, ‘love mist’ (smoke), and a huge trolley bearing the massive and multiple wedding cakes!

There is also lots of food: sandwiches, cakes, drinks, small savory pastries.... and then the dancing! Continual loud music, very very loud,  with energetic dancing: but usually the women separately from the men, except the bridal couple, who have a few “alone” dances!

The wedding is a night of much celebration, happiness and fun: children are always welcome and run around the place at dizzying speeds! Relatives and friends would have come from all over.... and the party usually goes on until the small hours of the morning… or until sunrise, as is the fashion at the moment.

...and the happy couple will head to their brand new shiny and sparkly home to begin their life together.

... and a time to eat meat ...

We all have our favorite holidays and annual events in our lives. Here in Egypt, people have 2 religious / public holidays every year:

THE 2 EIDS!
These 2 Eid festivals are a time of celebration and feasting and have religious meaning.
The lesser Eid (shorter, smaller) is the Eid il Fitr, which is the one day celebration at the end of the Ramadan month of fasting.
The second Eid is the one we will be looking at here. It has many names:

* Eid al Adha
    * Feast of Sacrifice
        * the Major Festival
            * The Greater Eid
                * Eid il Kabir

THE GREATER EID.
According to Islamic tradition, this Eid honors the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his first-born son (Ishmael) as an act of submission and obedience to Allah. But Allah intervened and provided a lamb instead. So it is a time to remember the value of self-denial that Abraham modeled with his willingness to sacrifice his son.

WHEN IS THIS EID?
It is a 4 day public holiday, and it is on the 10th day of the Dhu al-hijab (in the Islamic Calendar). If we use the Gregorian calendar, the actual date will vary by 11 days (earlier) every year. But in 2012-2014 the Greater Eid was in the month of October.
The timing is linked to the annular Haj, and the first day of Eid coincides with the final day of the Haj, when the pilgrims descend from Mt Arafat (a hill east of Mecca).

HOW IS IT CELEBRATED?
On the first day, it begins with a special version of the daily dawn prayer. People will usually wear their best clothes, or their new Eid clothes for this day. At the end of the prayers, there will be the customary embracing and greetings of the Eid:
“Eid Mubarak” (blessings of Eid).

And then the “fun” begins. Around 6/7am (depending on the time of the sunrise that year) the sacrificing will begin. All those who can afford an animal, will have bought one prior to this day. It could be a camel, a bull or a sheep: you see these sheep being transported home in trucks, cars, barrows… and even on boats! In many markets special stalls are made to house these animals and sell them to people 2 weeks prior to the Eid. Some will get the slaughtering done by a butcher, but in many homes it is done (literally) on the doorstep of their houses.
For many of us (and some Egyptian women I know) the idea of watching or getting involved with the slaughtering is not something we would call fun, but in the villages, the children and men are usually very excited and it is an annual event that involves the whole family.

The most experienced (and fit) man will be allocated the task of the master stroke, and then the cleaning and cutting up will be done. The children love to put their hands in the blood and make hand prints or patterns on the walls of the houses!
The more experienced women will then do the “breakfast” of the day: liver and kidneys, cooked with onions and spices, to be eaten with delicious bread.

The cleaning continues until the meat is divided up and ready to be distributed.

WHO EATS THE MEAT?
The idea of Eid is that EVERYONE gets to eat meat that day! So according to Islamic tradition, the meat must be divided into 3 parts:
1 = is for you!
2 = is for you relatives/friends/neighbours
3 = is for the poor in your community

In some countries, you can donate money to various organizations and they will buy and distribute meat to the poor on your behalf. So at the main meal of the day, the goal is that every household in the country is eating meat with friends and relatives.

AND THEN THE GOING OUT!
After a huge and satisfying meal (MEAT, rice, bread, salads) people will then go out and visit friends and relatives. The giving of gifts sometimes happens, and everyone wears their newest and best clothing and eats special Eid biscuits, called Kahk and drink copious cups of tea. The children rush around with glee as the first day of the Eid draws to a close…. and there are still 3 more!

The feasting, meat eating, sharing, going out, visiting and wearing of fabulous clothes continues until all 4 days draw to a close….
and school begins again….
and off to work the people go…..
But looking forward to the next Greater Eid the following year.

... to tip or not to tip? It’s not really a question ...

One of the day to day normalities of life in Egypt that can cause much stress to first time visitors, is the question of “baksheesh” (tipping).

Not only does it add unforeseen costs to the budget at every turn, but it tends to annoy and irritate at every turn.

What is helpful is to have a total paradigm shift of the norm in “your country”! The immediate thinking when a hand is held out, or you are given the “look”, or the person lingers at the exit door is...

* That is what they are being paid to do!
     * Why should I tip them? It is part of their job!
          * We only tip waiters back home.
               * We usually only ever tip in a sit-down restaurant!
                    * But the bill already includes a 10% service charge!

WHY THIS PERVASIVE SOCIAL NORM?
Many of us make assumptions based on what happens in our own countries. One of the first is that people here are being “paid” for their jobs so should not need extra money from us just for doing their jobs. Well, sometimes they are paid, and sometimes they depend on these tips as their only source of income.
However, the basic stipulated wage is frighteningly low, and with the usual large families this culture embraces, most people try and work 2 jobs in an attempt to get enough money for food and schooling.
Some “doormen” are given accommodation in exchange for work, so need every “guinea” (Egyptian pound) that they can possible get: your tips are their livelihood.

And the “service charge” on the bill does not actually go to those who have provided the service. It is simply an extra add-on that goes straight into the till. The waiters themselves are usually paid a very small salary, and look to customers to supplement this meager income.

So yes, it is expected, indeed almost compulsory... for you as a foreigner and even Egyptians themselves! But understand that a small tip can make a big difference to an individual and his family.

Some have said that we continue this cycle of begging/dependency by tipping everyone everywhere, but the weak economy, the high unemployment, and the staggering surplus labour, are all massive issues which will take many years to resolve.

CONSIDER IT AN ACT OF CHARITY:
Instead of getting angry and irritated at every exit and entrance, rather take this “tipping” culture as an act of charity. Understand that as a foreigner who has flown into Egypt, and is a tourist, you are far wealthier than most of the population of this country. Their incomes are way below yours, their housing, education, clothing, food are nothing near yours. So be kind, generous and give out a few coins as you go along, knowing that it will help a family.

WHEN AND HOW TO TIP:
For any basic level service (opening doors, rubbish collection person, shoe keeper at the mosque, use of bathroom) Egyptian Pounds : Le1-2 a time. If you are in a high tourist area, or upper class hotel, perhaps more.
Restaurants: Le5 per customer (again depending on the restaurant and the total bill!)
Delivery man: Le2-5
Tourist drivers and tour guides: they usually get an additional 10-15 percent of charge as a personal tip. But check this out with your trip co-ordinator if you are uncertain.
Person carrying your bags: Le2-5 (depending on how many bags and what class /mode of transport you have taken!)

Of course if you are very pleased with someone’s service, you are welcome to give larger amounts. If you see someone begging on the streets and you would like to give, again, you are most welcome. But do take care not to flash too much cash, as there could be eyes watching. Keep your tipping coins and notes in a separate pocket or wallet.

Watch other Egyptians and see how they hand over the tip: discreetly and with respect. So be subtle and considerate in the way you tip.

WHEN NOT TO TIP:
If people are hassling you (and sometimes in the high tourist areas you may find this) you do not have to tip anything. Also, if the service has been really bad, then again, don’t feel you have to. There is a balance between not offending people by not tipping, and being taken advantage of! But be happy with your decision either way!

If you have the joy of visiting some of the rural areas, there is less of an expectation for tipping. They just love having you in their homes and villages. So if you offer a tip, it may be refused. Sometimes they forbid their children to take money from you. If this is the case, a small gift would be more appropriate: a lovely cake from a nearby patisserie, an item of clothing for the children, some stationary for school. The giving and receiving of gifts in the rural areas is something with which they are familiar, enjoy and appreciate.

So we encourage you to keep a sense of perspective, and along with lots of small change, bring a lot of patience with you!

Give with a cheerful heart...
and don’t let the cost of a few dollars a day ruin your holiday!

... a traditional , indulgent and civilised past-time ...

In most Cafes and on many street corners, you will see one of the oldest traditions of the Middle East: Shisha smoking. For some of us, our first introduction to this pipe might have been through Lewis Carroll’s character: the Caterpillar (Alice in Wonderland). But in the Middle East, it is a tradition almost as old as time, and with as many names....

• nargile (coconut, Indian)
• sheesha (Glass, Persian)
• water pipe
• hookah (jar, Arabic)
• hubbly bubbly (the sound as the water bubbles through!)

ORIGINS OF THE SHEESHA PIPE:

The concept is thought to have originated in India/Persia in the 1560s and after its humble beginnings in coconut shells, developed and spread and soon became a symbol of prestige. The master-mind behind it is thought to be an Iranian physician (Hakim Gilani) who was said to have be greatly alarmed at the increase of smoking in the Mughal Courts, and attempted to build a filter to purify the smoke, by making it pass through water thus creating the first sheesha pipe. 

MAIN COMPONENTS OF A SHEESHA PIPE:

There are a frightening array of parts and purchases necessary for the lighting of the sheesha pipe, and will bewilder any new smoker! These days, with the “national addiction” of the middle eastern nations increasing in popularity in Europe and America, you can do your on-line buying of any of these components in a variety of colours and styles and many other accessories too!

1. BOWL (head) usually clay, holds the tobacco and the coal
2. WIND-SCREEN (foil cover with air holes) prevents wind blowing the ash and altering the temperature of the coals
3. HOSE: (Flexible tube) usually brightly, at the end of which is a mouth-piece.
4. PURGE VALVE: to get rid of any stale smoke (if you have taken too long to draw!)
5. WATER JAR (base/vase) Usually of glass, or even in the past, out of gold or silver. and even from crystal (from Venice). The smoke is bubbled through the water in this jar.

TYPES OF TOBACCO:

The traditional sheesha tobacco is marinaded in molasses. Some countries have used Cannabis (weed/grass) as well! But these days more popular is the flavoured tobacco blends, the range is almost overwhelming:

apple, strawberry, apricot, mint, chocolate, banana, coconut, bubble gum, grape, honey! 

MEN ONLY?

Traditionally, in public, women did not smoke sheesha pipes, though I have heard that some did in the privacy of their own homes. But today, though many still frown upon the idea, many of the more modern coffee/restaurants will have sheesha available and the young men and women of the cities will sit together and smoke sheesha. Sometimes you will even find groups of only women smoking together, and on occasion even a woman on her own, nonchalantly puffing away.

IS IT A HEALTH RISK?

The average sheesha session takes a minimum of 45 minutes. It should never be rushed. It is a social activity, to be enjoyed with coffee and pleasant conversation. In this time, there could be 100 inhalations. There are many discussions and arguments about which smoke is worse for you: cigarettes or sheesha. As a non-smoker, I would vote for neither! 

However, as a civilised past-time, part of a long culture, a social and enjoyable past-time, I have realised that those who smoke sheesha do not really care about tar levels, amount of smoke inhaled and lung disease! To them, they are sharing a long and ancient tradition of the land, and a part of their heritage. 

And if you ask them what they think, they will shrug, and suggest you pull up a  chair, have a puff, drink a cup of coffee and chat with them for a while!

..... The Star of the East.....

Soon after you arrive in Egypt, you will become aware of a distinctive voice that can be heard playing from the radio, a tape-deck, an ancient record player, on television.... in taxi’s, in coffee shops, in restaurants and in homes. Usually these songs have lengthy periods of Egyptian classical instrumental music, and then this deep, rich, powerfully haunting voice will emerge..... usually followed by tumultuous applause from an unseen audience. But, it will seem like the song goes on and on and on....... because they do!

Ask about who this is! You will usually see the person you ask sigh, get a sparkle in their eye, a gentle smile on their face, shake their head and ask how it is possible that you do not know this woman. Her name is Om Khalthoum, singer, song-writer and actress, and has been ascribed many titles in her life:

* The Voice of Egypt
     * Mother of all Arabs
          * The Queen
               * The Lady
                    * Nightingale of the East
                         * Most well known singer of the Middle East
                               * Most influential woman of her time

HER BACKGROUND:
She was born in a small village in the Nile Delta, her day of birth uncertain, as in those days, in the villages, it was not considered a law, nor vital to register births. She grew up near the Nile, at home with the seasonal planting and harvest that is part of Delta life: the River, the Land and the “fellaheen” (farming people) moulded her thinking.

Her father was an “Imam” (leader in the Mosque), and from very young taught her to “sing” recitations from the Quran, and soon recognized that his daughter was gifted with a rich and powerful voice. It was not “allowed” or considered appropriate for girls/women to sing in public, to strange men, so from the age of about 7, her father dressed her up as a young Bedouin boy (with long jacket and headdress) and she joined a team of singers, singing Islamic ballads at village celebrations and feasts, directed by her father. News of her incredible talent started to spread, and people were drawn to her voice.... eventually some came even from Cairo. They recognized her talent and some gifted musicians and poets began to partner and train her for the fame and success that was unfolding before their eyes.

THE MOVE TO CAIRO:
Later she moved to Cairo with her parents, and lived the rest of her life there, but she never forgot her childhood in the Delta. She gained in popularity and was invited to perform in many distinguished parties and gatherings. She left behind her Bedouin-boy outfit in exchange for elegant yet modest gowns. What she became famous for was her legendary “1st-Thursday-of-every-month” concerts. These were broadcast live from Cairo and could last 3-4 hours, and yet she only sung 2 - 3 songs!! It is said that for the first of these concerts, feeling a little overwhelmed, she reached out for a scarf, and although she was no longer covering her head, from that day on, holding a scarf in her hand became a symbol of her identity, her past, her faith, and she used them to highlight emotions in her song.... the scarves, her sunglasses and her modestly glamorous gowns became her trademarks.

HER MUSICAL STYLE:
Her origins were in Religious recitations, but then she moved on to the Classic Arabic Poetic tradition, finally including Arab popular music. But her partnering with talented and respected musicians and poets of the time, writing for her and guiding her, added a profound richness to her music. Her voice is legendary: strong, rich and emotionally powerful. It is believed that she often had to stand away from the microphone as her voice was too much for the microphone!
But she won the nation over with her unique improvisation: each time she sang a song, it would be different, and she could repeat even a one or two line phrase over a 5 minute period, getting more and more emotional and leading her audiences into a musical ecstasy of feeling and emotion. So a song could vary from 45 minutes to almost 2 hours, depending on the connection and flow between her and the audience.

Her musical ensemble included violins, the “oud”, “kanun”, tambourine, accordion, various Egyptian wind instruments and the traditional drums.

HER THEMES:
Most of her songs contain the heart wrenching themes centering around relationships:
LOVE, LONGING..... and LOSS
between a man and woman, parent and child, and of course the love of the land of Egypt.
She sings with strength and passion about these relationships, articulating for her audience the loves, disappointments, difficulties and deep passion of matters of the heart, helping the audiences flow with her as she navigates the highs and lows of these rich relationships.


WHO LISTENS TO HER?
Everyone!! If you ask almost any Egyptian, any age, they can tell you stories of how their parents or grandparents listened (and still listen) to her music! One friend of mine, who also grew up in a Delta village, tells of how as a child, on Thursday evenings when they broadcast those performances live, she and others would run to a nearby house (one of the few who owned) a radio, and they would sit under the open window-sill outside the house, and listen for hours as the rich voice of Om Khalthoum touched their hearts...and the hearts of most of Egypt! This singer touches deep into the hearts and heritage of this nation, reminding them of their roots, their loves, their despair, their pain and their loves. She lifts up the spirits, calms people when they are despondent.... and makes people feel that everything will work out.... her music stirs their emotions yet calms their souls.

HER LEGACY:
Om Khalthoum died in 1975 at approximately 74 years of age. She recorded 300 songs in a career that spanned 60 years.
You can find LP records still in many homes today, hear her programs repeated on the TV, many radio broadcasts, CDs, tapes and of course the new generation is downloading and buying her music off i-tunes.

HER MOST POPULAR SONG:
Most people can tell you their favorite song of hers straight away, and will argue vociferously the reasons why! But usually it is because her authentic sound and depth of lyrics echo some emotional turmoil they were going through, or remind them of the childhood, or stir up feelings of longing and pride for their county: hypnotic and melancholic!
But the song that most people mention as the favorite is:
Inta Omri: You are my life.

You might want to take a listen.... but beware, depending on which recording you listen to, it will be at least 40 minutes long... possibly even up to 2 hours!