... smoke and fragrances rising up everywhere ...

Periodically as you walk the busy streets and markets in Egypt, you will see a man waving some coals inside a shop or restaurant, and then he will leave behind a strong perfumed smoke that lingers on.

WHO IS THIS?

He is known as the incense man! Usually each area has a “famous” man, and he will do the rounds of shops, markets and homes as requested, and will receive a small payment for his services. In the past, it was the Dervishes (a member of a Muslim, specifically Sufi, religious order who has taken vows of poverty and austerity) who used to perform this function, but now it seems to be an allocated person by the community, and sometimes is a job handed-down within a particular family. He will usually whisper some religious phrases and words of blessing as he walks around and disperses the fragrant smoke.

WHAT IS HE BURNING?

The coals are burning incense, or “Boukhoor” as it is called in Arabic. These can be fragrant sticks of incense bought from a spice seller in the market (el Ataar) or in powder form or even the more expensive little “rocks” of spices bought from Saudi Arabia, which are said to be the best. They come in a variety of fragrances: strawberry, jasmine, and even frankincense.

WHY DOES HE DO THIS?

It is believed that incense helps the evil spirits to be chased away (evil eye) and at the same time it brings blessings on the house or shop (good luck, wealth, love etc). It is like a kind of spiritual cleansing. In ancient Egypt the reasons were both medical and religious, and large quantities were burned every day throughout Egypt in the temples. In those times, a lot of the fragrances and ingredients for the incense were brought from far and wide, and an odor was selected that was thought to please the gods. The incense would have been made up from: flowers, herbs, roots, gums, resins and woods: anything with a strong aroma.

HOW OFTEN DOES THIS HAPPEN?

Apparently is it usual to do this on a Friday particularly. Many women will do this in their homes. In shops and markets it is even done daily. He will usually do this in the morning, as it will clear the evil for the day, and bring blessings on the shops and markets for that day. Apparently it is an old wives tale that angels gather where the smell is the sweetest!

IN THE COPTIC CHURCHES:

Incense is used liberally in orthodox church services. They believe it is a biblical fact, that incense represents the prayers and praises of the saints and angles, and it is burned in churches as an introduction to and preparation for the prayers and praises to follow during the service. 5 spoonfuls of incense are used in the censer, to represent the 5 righteous men who burned pleasing aromas to God.

….so, as you walk around, in churches, homes, markets, shops and restaurants you will breathe in the pleasing and heady aromas of freshly burnt incense… remember to speak out a blessing on the country and her people as you pass by. 

... counting your prayers ...

Prayer beads have a long history: initially beads were strung and used as ornaments. The first that is heard of beads being used as a prayer tool was in India, in the Hindu faith. 

Today, prayer beads are used in many different faiths:

• Hinduism
• Buddhism
• Christianity
• Sikhism
• and Islam

What they all have in common is their purpose:

• to help count the number of prayer recitations
• to aid concentration during personal prayers
• as a source of comfort: fingering the beads during times of stress or anxiety. This is the reason they are often referred to as “worry” beads!

Each faith has a slightly different number of beads and they have different patterns of usage.

ISLAMIC PRAYER BEADS:

Some Muslims believe that prayer beads in the Islamic faith are an “unwelcome innovation”, and propose that all Muslims use the “finger joint” counting method (as the Prophet Mohammed did) as being the only way to tally prayers.

However, 600 years ago use of prayer beads in the Islamic faith became popular and widespread. The words used to name this practice are:

• Misbaha (the prayer beads)
• Tasbih (the counting of praises)
• Sibha  

In the Islamic prayer beads, there are 99 beads in a full set, divided into 3 sets of 33, but a small disc, and ending in a tassel, so that the user can “feel” where they are in the prayers. These 99 beads are to represent the 99 names of God. But the more popular beads are the smaller ones with 33 beads on them, again often divided into sets of 3. 

THE PRAYERS: 

It is recommended to recite these praise prayers after each of the 5 daily ritual prayers:

Subnah Allah (Glory be to God)

Al-hamdu lilah (Praise be to God)

Allah Akbar (God is the greatest)

You would say 33 of each of these, and then end with a final prayer, the total being 100. 

But you can also pray these voluntary prayers on the go: any place, any time. As a friend said to me: “It helps pass the time when you are stuck in a traffic jam!” (which here in Egypt can be a lot of the time!). Basically any free time you have in a day can be used to make these repetitions.

THE USE OF THE BEADS:

Beads are moved through the fingers, using the thumb, reciting one of the phrases above, 33 times. This “fingering” allows the user to keep track of how many prayers have been said, with a minimal amount of conscious effort. This is turn allows greater attention to be paid to the prayers themselves.

TYPES OF BEADS:

You can get many and varied prayer beads: whatever your pocket can afford! Beads can range from the mass produced plastic variety, to the hand-made ones of pure gold, so I am told! And in between you will find them made from:

• glass
• fragrant wood
• jade
• coconut shells
• mother of pearl shells
• stones
• pearls
• seeds
• crystal

They can vary (usually) from 5 mm in diameter, to 20 mm. 

MODERN PRAYER COUNTERS:

Recently here in Egypt, I have seen the rise in popularity of the prayer counters. These are hand held, strapped onto the wrist or arm, or worn as a ring. They can be manual, mechanical, digital, with LED lights, electronic, mini tally counters and now come in a variety of colors and can be ordered on line. You click every time you pray, and it keeps a progressive total for you. 

This is met with mixed feelings, as it is a new invention, and also the danger is that you begin to “show off” or compete with others, losing the key focus of the prayers. Also the total of your prayers becomes more visible for others to see, and can then be worn as a “trophy”.

But many find that it is easy, modern, simple and reliable, and enjoy the new way of keeping track of the prayers they have said.

...the beverage that is a MUST...

Tea drinking in Egypt has been described as:

   * an integral part of the culture: its symbol
        * an obsession
             * a timeless tradition
                  * a passion
                       * a past-time
                            * the main source of energy
                                 * a way of life
                                      * and THE cultural beverage!

But whatever you call it, when you are in Egypt, you will drink it, or rather you WILL drink it, and lots of it. You will find the “compulsory” cup of tea thrust into your hands at every opportunity. 

THE HISTORY:

Apparently, black tea was first brought here by the Venetian traders, who mainly used the port city of Alexandria. Since then, drinking of “normal” tea has flourished and grown, and now it occupies 70% of the beverage market! Most of the tea is imported from Kenya and Sri Lanka, Egypt being the one of the world’s largest importers of tea.

HOW IS THE TEA MADE?

Well, there is not a long, intricate ceremony or ritual with Egyptian tea, but it is rather a passion, a duty, a MUST. So in people’s homes, sidewalk cafes, shops, random places in the city, all that is required is a chair, or even a mat to sit on to start the tea drinking. Within minutes, you will be presented with your tea. 

There are said to be 2 kinds of tea making:

1. Koshary tea (from the North). This tends to be lighter in color, and not as strong: half a teaspoon of loose leaves per cup, and is usually spooned into the cup of hot water and stirred.
2. Saidi tea (from the South) This is strong, heavy and has been boiled for up to 5 minutes. 2 teaspoons of tea leaves per cup.

Both will be served with a lot of sugar: therein lies the energy. Most foreigners prefer the lighter tea from the North. But don't be alarmed if you have a bitter cup of strong southern tea: asking for extra sugar is never a problem!

Tea is not usually served in porcelain cups or pottery/ceramic mugs: it must be glass, usually without a handle! The Egyptians tell me that half the joy of drinking tea is admiring the deep rich colour. You will find that once you get over not having a porcelain or pottery cup, you feel deprived if you can’t see what you are drinking. Most guests go home and buy a glass cup for their tea!

Often you can ask for mint tea, which usually means you will be given a large sprig of mint to add to your glass! This gives it a refreshing flavor and fragrance, and mint is always good for any stomach gripes you may have!

OTHER TEAS?

It is said that the Pharaohs were the ones to drink Hisbiscuis (bright red) and fenugreek (yellow) tea. Hibiscus tea is more popular in the South where it is grown, and can be drunk hot or cold, but either way has a lot of sugar as tea should have! It is a deliciously refreshing drink on a  hot summer’s day.

Other teas that are popular are annaseed, chamomile and cinnamon. In more recent times, Early Grey and Green tea have been increasing in popularity and availability. Egyptian women love any tea that is said to “melt away” the fat, and have various teas they will encourage you to drink to lose weight: ginger and cinnamon is a good one they say!

AND NEVER DRINK ALONE!

Tea is never drunk on the go, or take-away: you will always sit somewhere, slow yourself down, settle in, feel the noise and hustle-bustle of the country slowly fade away….. until the waiter brings you your steaming glass of refreshment. You usually have to sit and wait for the glass to cool down a bit, so this gives you time to chat and interact with those around you…. you should never drink alone. The saying goes that if you drink alone, you will die alone. It is a social event, an occasion, to be repeated often in a day.

When the glass has cooled a little, using 2 fingers and your thumb, carefully placed near the rim of the cup (coolest part of the cup) take that first sip…

…savor the moment

…close your eyes and swallow…

…time slows down.

WELCOME IN EGYPT!

… where the national staple food is a huge sour pancake-ish thing …

INTRODUCTION:

One of the most interesting cultural experiences in a new county is THE FOOD! And in Ethiopia the local cuisine is surprisingly different and unique tasting. The staple food of the Ethiopian people has been called:

• a pancake (the size of a tyre!)
• a sour crepe bandage
• a pale chamois cloth
• a hand towel
• a serviette
• spongy-sourdough-flatbread

 But however unusual the look, and indeed the taste, you have to learn about it and then give it a try!

TEFF GRAIN:

Injeera (as this staple dish is called) is made from a grain unique to Ethiopia and is called TEFF, an ancient grass! It is apparently the smallest grain in the world (teeny tiny) but packs a powerful punch in terms of its nutritional value. Although only grown in Ethiopia, news of TEFF and injeera is spreading to the west due to the fact that it is gluten-free! 

INJEERA:

The “bread” is made by fermenting the grain for a short period (around 3 days). It is then made into a pourable paste and then cooked over coals on a large and very hot flat iron pan, usually greased by using cabbage seeds! A small amount is poured quickly, in a circular motion on the large, round, hot iron pan. This is then quickly covered with a clay lid until steam is seen to be coming out of the sides. Then you flip this large round hot, steaming, fermented pancake over. It is spongy/bubbly/holey on the one side and then flat and smooth on the other. It is best eaten fresh, although it can be eaten up to 3 days later if stored carefully. Injeera can be baked at home or bought fresh daily from local stores.

AND THE SAUCES:

Once the injeera is ready, one of these is usually layed open on an equally large round platter, holey-side up! On top of this “table-cloth” of injeera is then poured the various small bowls of sauces (wat) that have been selected. Most of these “wat” sauces will be spicy: Ethiopians love the spicy foods! They can be mild (made from lentils, or vegetables) or with meat (lamb or beef). One of our favorites was Shiro (made from chick peas, buttery with a hint of spice).

AND THE UNTENSILS:

The injeera bread becomes the eating utensil as well. In addition to the round table-cloth injeera, you will be given other portions of injeera to use as well. With either, you will tear off a small bite-size portion, throw it bubbly-side down onto the food you want, wrap it around the food in one swoop directly into your mouth! It takes a bit of practice but just watch a local person for a few mouthfuls and you should be ready to try yourself. 

AN INTERESTING CUSTOM:

We discovered an interesting sign of friendship: if an Ethiopian makes a little swoop with injeera onto some sauce and then leans across to you placing the food near your lips, open up and eat it! It is a sign of hospitality, friendship and respect. If you are brave enough, you can attempt to reciprocate! 

So don’t be scared of the food: it looks weird, but roll up your sleeves, tear away at the injeera, scoop up the sauce, pop into your mouth and savor the surprising rich and spicy taste of Ethiopia’s food: I guarantee you will order more!

(And in case the injure does not grab your taste, there is usually rice available and some yummy fresh bread… but at least try once!!)

… and a happy ENKUTATASH to you too! …

INTRODUCTION:

Life in Ethiopia revolves around its own ancient calendar. It is the “sidereal” calendar, similar to the Coptic Egyptian calendar, but not quite! Sidereal time is a time-keeping system that astronomers use, based on the earth’s rate of rotation measured relative to the fixed stars.

MONTHS:

The names of the months are in Ge’ez, the orthodox language of the Ethiopian Church. There are 13 months in the Ethiopian calendar, 12 months have 30 days each, and the 13th month will have 5 days in a normal year, and 6 days every 4th year (leap year). 

YEAR END:

The year ended this year (2014) on the 10th September, but will differ every year, depending on the leap years. The first day of the Ethiopian year this year (2014 our time) was  “our” September 11th. However it is important to note that there is a 7 year 8 month gap between the Ethiopian calendar and the Gregorian calendar. So our 2014 for example is their 2007! 

NEW YEAR:

There is a wonderful celebration, combining a national and a liturgical holiday all in one: the end of the year symbolizes the end of the rains, a new year and a new harvest. This celebration takes place in the Meskel Square, in the middle of town. It is an annual religious holiday and the Ethiopian Orthodox church commemorates the discovery of the “true cross” by St Helena. The belief is that she had a dream about the location of the true cross of Christ was, and she made a fire of wood and frankincense and the smoke rose and then returned to earth exactly where the cross lay.  So this 1600 year old tradition is still celebrated today.

FLOWERS AND BONFIRES:

The Meskel flower, after which the festival is named, is a bright, yellow wildflower, that grows prolifically in the highland countryside, after the monsoon rains. They are like carpets of vibrant cheerfulness, mile and after mile after mile of them! For the celebration, flowers are picked and bonfire sticks and twigs are gathered. At the main Meskel square in town, a huge bonfire is made, decorated with the yellow flowers and in many homes, a similar yet smaller version is made for the family, to be lit once people return home after the ceremony in the main square. On the day of this celebration, it appears that every person walking the roads back to their homes is carrying one armful of these happy flowers and the other filled with firewood! Everyone seems animated and excited, looking forward to the ceremony.

WHICH WAY WILL IT FALL?

From mid-day, crowds mostly dressed in the white national dress, start to enter the square, vying for the best places for the best view of the choirs and the fire. As the day draws to a close, an elaborate ceremony is held in the square, with many and various choirs singing and swaying as they parade close to the waiting bonfire (Demera). As it comes closer to the setting of the sun, the square is packed (literally shoulder to shoulder) with people and the excitement and tension is palpable. With the final procession complete the crowds happily light their hand-held locally designed candles (which are brilliant and don’t drip!): watching the candles light up around the square is a truly spiritual experience. And then finally the huge bonfire is lit, amidst great cheering and whistling from the immense crowd. Within the bonfire is a cross and which way it falls is said to predict the year ahead. Luckily this year, it fell the “right” way, and people left happily and content, believing they could look forward to a good and fruitful year, with good harvests and good rain. 

BACK HOME AGAIN:

Many families then return to their own homes and light their “mini” versions of the huge Demera, and have an evening of singing and celebration: another year has begun.

Introducing ETHIOPIA... Coffee: an occasion and never ever instant!!

THE BACKGROUND:
Coffee, that glorious enriching beverage, had its origins in Ethiopia, through a
young goat herder! Now, many years later, Ethiopia is a country rich in coffee
growth, production, export and of course drinking. Of the apparently 4 million bags
of coffee that are produced in Ethiopia annually, 40% of it remains in the country
to be drunk usually in a delightful coffee ceremony.

THE CEREMONY:
There is a 3 times a day ritual that happens in every home, every day. It is
uniquely Ethiopian, a unique aspect of daily life, and a slow, elaborate social
gathering. It is the coffee ceremony! 
It takes at least half an hour, and even up to 2 hours I am told, and begins with
the raw, green coffee beans and ends with the drinking of the 3rd cup of "blessed"
coffee, all of this in an aromatic, rich atmosphere.

THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS:
1. a wife/mother/female figure, usually attired in traditional dress: white,
cotton, flowing dress with a border of bright colour.
2. cut grass, which is laid on the floor in front of the coffee station, and gives a
lovely aroma, which increases as people walk over and across it
3. enough raw coffee beans for the number of people present 
4. charcoal fire (which is usually placed within a little "cupboard", behind which
the woman presides and orchestrates this lovely ritual)
5. the classic clay round bottomed coffee pot, with a long graceful neck and a small
handle
6.  tiny little cups and saucers (one for each person)
7.  sugar (usually 1 or 2 teaspoons in each cup)
8. a little brazier type frying pan (to roast the beans over the fire)
9.  an incense holder and incense (usually frankincense)
10. a wooden pestle and mortar with which to pound the beans
11. popcorn: this is the usual "snack" that will be eaten with the coffee, usually
with a little sugar sprinkled on it.
NOTE: Ethiopian coffee is traditionally drunk black, so milk is not usually
available, and people will looked shocked if you ask for it!!

LET THE CEREMONY BEGIN:
With great style and almost balletic fluidity, the gracefully dressed woman will sit
behind her coffee station, on a small stool, with the charcoal ready to go, and
begin the process by roasting the green beans. When they are done, she will bring
the fragrant steaming brazier to each person, allowing each to have a first smell of
the glorious brew which is to follow. Each person will smell, even use a hand to
direct the aroma towards the nose, and make happy comments about how good it is!
Next is the boiling of the water. While this is happening, she will pound the coffee
beans into grounds. When the water is ready, she will add alarmingly many heaped
teaspoons of the coffee into the thin necked coffee pot. This is then returned to
the coals to boil up twice again.
In the meantime she will get the popcorn ready, and make sure that the incense is
burning nicely on its little stand, pouring out yet more fragrance into the room.
and keeping bugs at bay!

Once the coffee is ready, she might put a "strainer" in the outlet to prevent bits
of the coffee beans being poured in the cups.
She will then put the sugar in the teeny cups, and begin pouring: the cups are all
lined up, clean and waiting. She will hold the coffee pot fairly high, and pour in
one continuous stream. This will cause a small amount of spillage in your saucer:
this is normal and expected, so don't let it worry you!
You will have your cup given to you, so sit back, and enjoy cup number one of the
rich, thick, hot brew.

This will then be repeated, slightly weaker, with cup number 2, and again, slightly
weaker yet with cup number 3. If you can make it to number 3, you will be blessed,
as this is the cup of blessing!

SIT AND ENJOY:
This is not to be rushed, but enjoy the fragrant ritual, and slowly sip the brews
and enjoy the popcorn. For Ethiopians, this usually happens 3 times a day, and is a
time when people gather and chat about life in all its forms. It is a gesture of
respect and friendship and to be invited into someone's home is indeed an honour.

Once you have experienced this, our usual quick, instant, on the go coffee just does
not make the grade!

...a time when lanterns shine on every corner...

RAMADAN:
This is the month of fasting that is one of the 5 pillars of the Muslim faith. During this time a unique symbol and an almost magical tradition lights up every street. This is the wonderful, shining 800 year tradition, something which makes even the bleakest street become beautiful:

THE FANOOS:
This is the name given to the Ramadan lamps, that are seen to dangle from balconies, hang above entrances to buildings, shine out from shop windows, and be on sale on every street corner.

THE HISTORY:
There are several stories (and versions of stories) about how it all began:
* One is that on the 24th July 968 AD the Caliph entered Cairo at night, with the people of the city carrying torches and candles to welcome him. To shield the flame from the wind, they wrapped them in palms and leather.
* Another story is that the Caliph wanted to light the streets and ordered mosques to hang  fanoos lamps outside.
* Yet another story is that young boys had to walk in front of women (who were not supposed to be out alone on the streets) carrying a copper Fanoos to warn men to move out of the way.
* Another opinion is that the origins of the Fanoos were from Christmas lights, and as the Coptic believers in Egypt became Muslims, they changed from christmas lights to candles in simple tin containers to be used during the holy month of Ramadan.

Whichever story is true, or even if all of them, the fact remains that Ramadan is now integrally connected to the light and brightness of the fanoos: every home desires one, every child wants one, schools even make them to take home, and there are types for every pocket. Every child wants to swing their Fanoos after the Iftar meal, singing traditional songs and visiting neighbors and relatives.

TYPES OF FANOOS:
Initially the lamps were made of tin and had candles within, now many have fancy “airing grid” designs and even colored glass.
* simple (usually made in china, and as usually key chains!)
* complex (some can be found made of copper, with intricate designs)
* musical (some have pre-recorded Ramadan songs emitting from them)
* recycled tin
* made from fabric (special Ramadan designs)
* battery operated, or electric (light bulbs)
* with candles
Although many are now cheaply mass produced in China (with a very short shelf life) you can still find the traditional fanoos maker, in some small alcove or shop, where he will make them from tin, crafting them in the traditional shape.

But whichever type, Fanawees (plural word of Fanoos) are now a symbolic decoration welcoming the month of Ramadan, and they combat the darkness with grace and beauty, delighting the hearts of all who see them.